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Busted rockers... we've all had 'em. After all, it's 40-50 yr old plastic we're dealin' with here. Here's one way to fix 'em if you don't have access to a 3D printer.


So first off... cover your tank. Don't want a screwdriver slippin' and scratching the paint... do we. 2 screws on the bottom of the switch and you can peel the two halves away from the handlebars. Inside you'll see a little bracket holding the rocker in place with 1 screw. Remove it.



And now the rocker will pop out of the housing..



Clean the rocker with your solvent of choice to remove all dirt and grease, then rough up the broken end. Easy with the solvent... lest you melt the part. It's kinda small and fiddly for a file or sandpaper so I just used an Exacto knife and scraped across it. Roughed it up nicely.

Next I used some aluminum tape to create a mold to duplicate the original part. I made it slightly large so that I could use some sandpaper to finish it down to size.



Then I poured in some J B Weld original formula. After you pour it, use a tooth pick to stir it around. That gets rid of any air bubbles and makes sure it's well bonded to the plastic. Let it sit up overnight to fully cure.


Peel the tape off and you should have the rough shape of the tab.


Using sandpaper on a block, slowly work it down to size... checking the fit frequently with the button.



The original Yamaha screw is self tapping, which I feel contributes to the weakness of the tab. I decided to drill and tap it for a 3X.5mm machine screw.




And here we are. Ready to reassemble.


Put a little dielectric grease on it....


Push it back into place, reinstall the bracket and reinstall the switch on the handlebars


Reinstall the little brass slider plate and screw the rocker button back on.


And here we are....

Cheaper and much more satisfying than a new Mikes XS switch. :D
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Now that is a slick little repair! That one goes in the vault. The switch on my XS2 broke just like yours there, and I had to buy multiple sets of used switches to repair it. ( mine was also missing internal parts ) but that little post on the early switches is about half the thickness of yours. I really like that fix, and a nice write up too! :thumbsup:
Mine crumbled and broke flush. I'm not sure I can apply this repair.

Option B:
HCP24450 OEM left control switch HEADLIGHT HI/LO BEAM SELECTOR ARM. This is the plastic “stalk” that the position selector knob above is attached onto. This plastic arm is commonly broken and the selector knob can no longer be attached to it. This replacement comes with the copper contact plate and the spring-loaded detent ball. Easy replacement and solution to a common problem. NOTE: control switch must be opened up to replace this part. Fits all XJ550, XJ650 (except Turbo), and all XS1100 models control switches.
$ 32.95
Haha... yeah, at the time it was kinda irritating. During the resto on the SG I spent a lot of time cleaning the switches. You coulda' ate out of 'em ;) Then... on the very first start, the damn rocker fell off. :(
I'm blaming you for this Jim.


Cable choke. But..... the switch looks SO good inside.

toss in
Like yours the choke disc screw looked rusted in for the ages. #3 phillips screw driver not budging it. The milwaukee hex impact, very light trigger pressure, screw loosened immediately. :)
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