Home market tx650 going to SOIR

These have worked very well for me and they don't break the bank.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08P5J7Y91/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
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Oh, and I'd love to see pics of those muffler hanger brackets you fabbed up.
you made me do it 5T ;^) cleaned up some more, a clamp bolt hole drilled and tapped. Bracket now rattle canned satin black.
The diameter of the disk at the bolt is kinda big but I had the 1/4" slugs in the bins.
Note the footpeg mount and the strap that slides into the muffler bracket are not parallel. the muffler's cone shape needs an angle to the mount as the strap heads back. Getting the vertical member offset in the right spot to clear the muffler's radius while sliding in the bracket took a couple tries.
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Very nice. So, you did drill and tap a bolt hole in the insert? Good idea. I wouldn't trust just the muffler to headpipe clamp to hold it on. Many years ago, while riding out in the country, my buddy blew a muffler off his Norton. We found it out in a farmer's field, lol.
 
Very nice. So, you did drill and tap a bolt hole in the insert? Good idea. I wouldn't trust just the muffler to headpipe clamp to hold it on. Many years ago, while riding out in the country, my buddy blew a muffler off his Norton. We found it out in a farmer's field, lol.
Pay no attention to the hole with the busted off tap in it. :doh::banghead:
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Am I the only one that is always oh just a little smaller hole will give me better formed threads?
 
This morning's (nearly done) project
If you're an early guy (70-73) you know.
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some sawing, grinding, drilling, made a replacement mount rubber
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Early fenders are always all wallered out where the fender bolts to the rear support hoop
I ground away what remained of the ring from the doubler so the new sleeve welded to a washer is a snug fit.
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All the welds are to the doubler so the chrome fender isn't marred.
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One of those grommets got butchered to fit and goes under the washer on the coupling nut and inside the fender sleeve.
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Need to trim that coupling nut to length and it's about done.
A pita but prolly better than the factory setup.
Now ole cheap azz has to make replacement rubbers for the other mounting points.
some heavy braided rubber fuel line and a hole punch on that chunk of flat rubber should get r done.

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XS1 XS1B XS2 TX650 early rear fender mount worn repair replace hoop bracket tail light
I'll be doing this reinforcement/fix to a couple of early fenders soon, hopefully.

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It took me a while to figure out what the rod coupling is for, but I finally did. Due to the weld build-up, the attachment stud on the fender stay loop will be too short, and this was your way of lengthening it, without molesting the fender stay loop.
 
I'll be doing this reinforcement/fix to a couple of early fenders soon, hopefully.

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It took me a while to figure out what the rod coupling is for, but I finally did. Due to the weld build-up, the attachment stud on the fender stay loop will be too short, and this was your way of lengthening it, without molesting the fender stay loop.
Yes, 4 stars! Turned down the hex on the far end so it would fit inside the collar and reach to the stud. I did it on the lathe. But could easily be done chucked in a drill and held against a bench grinder wheel... I prolly shortened it so it doesn't get close to the tire.
 
Boink, transition from the lil beemer thread. :cool:The TX has been a bit off, one cylinder VERY intermittent. Last nice day, it would only run on one, carb cleaner spray cleaned the points. It started and ran on both, suited up, made it a 1/2 mile up the road, dropped to one, turned around limped home and parked it. Started it one more time, hands on pipes to verify, left cylinder was dead.
Got it on the lift yesterday. Riding to the Slimy Crud on May 3rd my goal. Mebby shlep it to the DRMR in Arkansas. Research begins. Pulled the plugs, left is oily, right looks good. Test plugs on the wires
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both sides sparking good. Spray some rust buster in that left cylinder (free up rings?) pull compressions; left 150, that's good! right 135, acceptable. torch the plugs dry reinstall.
Pull the left float bowl drain plug, some clean gas dribbles out, (I lined the gas tank last summer) open the petcock just a slow drip. hmm.
Next up, drop the float bowl, mebby pop the float, check the float valve see if I can get'r without pulling the carb.
If it's an "easy fix" to running, she needs turnsignals. I have a Taiwan repo early style set I'll install, need to convert them to LED cuz 6 volt bulbs, early isn't correct for a 73 but I like the look, so THERE!
If that goes well, I'm thinking about the emulator forks scattered on the basement work bench ready to go back together. Some parts arived from "overseas" a another mod "in mind" breathless details to follow.
 

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Removed fuel line, petcock flows good.
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Even blowing air, float drain just a dribble. Removed float bowl found nothing wrong. But float valve works now, :unsure: raised float a bit, reassembled started and ran fine on the lift. It's raining so a test ride will have to wait.
Found 3 :doh: out of the 4 repo turnsignals. :rolleyes: Out to the bins found a rather corroded stock early signal that matches, good enough for now I guess.

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Put these on new last summer. As usual smeared inside and out with silglide before installing.
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f me!
:rolleyes:
Oh well forks coming off anyways. Have some good 35mm dust boots, they'll work.
 
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Got in 30 miles of backroads yesterday. One stop to set idle speed and mixture. Ran good. Hit a couple frost heaves and THAT reminded me of why I want to swap on the cartridge emulator forks. crikey! But it seems to run well gear changes a little stiff, hope some more riding will ease that.
Pulled the plug from side that had been oily and it now looks good.
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throttle was stiff so cables, throttle sleeve etc. got R&R'd
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smooth and easy now.
Clutch was stiff, so lubed that cable with oil/DS2 also.
then the clutch lever was very woobly wobbly,
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drilled and reemed the lever hole to 10mm
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pushed in a bronze bushing, trimmed to length.
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that Chinese shoulder bolt head was massive so cut a taper on it.
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an hour or so later and its better and a little prettier.
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tires are old/ancient, 2002 and 1998 so they gotta go, still need turn signals and forks worked on. Now thinking rear shocks too.
It never ends.
 

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