Home market tx650 going to SOIR

Forks back on. A quick test ride, and fork action much improved but Oh man! I gotta change shocks. I have a set of progressives that I think will fit with just a bit of massaging to clear the chain guard, and making some bushings.
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I've prolly showed this before but this scissors jack works for all years and is especially handy for the 70-73 that don't have the mouse trap front motor mount
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the two notches I made in the bracket perfectly fit the nuts on the two mount bolts and hold the bike very securely.
It was just a garage sale find from an older car or truck.
When cranking up the jack NEVER go past the point where the rear tire touches the floor!
 
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Rode the TX 100ish miles to the slimy crud two weeks ago no big issues but clutch pull was stiff, too stiff, about 19 pounds measured with the fish scale even with the perch/lever rebush job I had done.
So went all in today: new, lubed, motion pro cable, though I didn't find anything wrong with the old one, rerouted cable,

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dug through the pile of LH covers and found ONE with a worm actuator with a longer pull arm,
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While in there checked on @GLJ 's shift shaft protector, looks good.
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cleaned it up good, lots of grease and WS2 powder. Reassembled, rode it, MUCH better, now measuring 12.5 pounds pull with the fish scale. That's more like it, 30% less effort!
@bosco659 ??
Pulled the rear wheel installed a new Shinko...
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It's on the balance rig now but I'm not happy with how much weight I had to add. :unsure:
Still need turn signals. Bonus; while sweeping the shop the other day, found a small ball bearing and remembered where it came from! Had the left handlebar switch apart cuz it wasn't working correctly, the bearing dropped out, disappeared.
It's running well at all RPMs, a bit of decel backfire going down the gears down hill to a stop. The only other niggle is 5th gear, 4-5 shifts are a bit stiff, gotta be careful or it doesn't catch 5th, but once in it stays there. Hoping it improves with use otherwise the RH cover has to come off for a look, shift shaft turns freely, no binding.
Continuing to toss parts in the homebrew deruster,
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so far it's an energizer bunny, keeps going and going. Two pair of tin snips in there now.
 
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gggGary said:
It's on the balance rig now but I'm not happy with how much weight I had to add.
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Yea I used to use Shinko tires everytime due to price point however the last few front tires needed way more weight than I liked, last pair I ordered was Toyo. Rear is mounted with no issues but have yet to mount the front. I’ll be interested in seeing if one cheap tire is better than the other for balance. I also had a hard time getting the Shinko to seat. I had to put 100 psi in the darn thing and that’s with a really clean rim. That happened twice.
 
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Tire/wheel balance.
found on a random motorcycle forum:
"According to the email Shinko sent me ( I'll just paraphrase here):
Yellow dot denotes the lowest weighted area of the tire, so park it beside the valve stem. Like PD said.
Red dot denotes the portion of the tire the furthest out of round. If you rim is marked for out of round ( apparently some manufacturers mark them?...no clue how to decipher that or what to look for) then locating the red dot takes presidence over the yellow dots location."
This tire has a red dot no yellow.
I spun it up using a buffing wheel on a drill. It really got spinning, I'll do the math;
Drill no load, 2500 RPM 8" to 26" diameter is a ratio of .3 or 2300RPM x .3 = 750 RPM
26 x pi =81.64" /12 to get feet, 6.8 feet X 750 RPM = 5100 feet X 60 to get feet/hour = 306,000 /5280 to get 60 MPH
And then it was shaking pretty decent.:unsure:
So the wheel was still showing out of balance, kept adding weight til it finally balanced!
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Mounted, will see what the bike feels like.
Brake shoes bedded in nicely, full contact
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Home brew deruster going strong.
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It does leave a black deposit that is kind of persistent, get it on your hands and it'll stay for a while. bit of wire brush or buffing removes it.
 

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and on my yootoob feed just now...
kinda cool but grrr damned gaggle . Not sure they are telling the whole story, think you would need to spin the bare wheel first to get that info?
One time I checked a BARE Radian mag rim, it was HORRIBLY out of balance BEFORE a tire was mounted.
Usually spoke wheels are pretty close. But who checks rims before mounting a tire?
 
I removed my tire today (Michelin Road Classic on Z1900) and balanced the rim before installing the tire and then rebalance the tire (front)to see if I can get rid of a persistent bounce out of the front. I have had that issue with a few Shinkos so I thought I would try a better tire. It's been frustrating to say the least after removing and rotating the tire multiple times, rebalancing, checking true but cant seem to get the bounce out so I thought I would try to balance the rim first. The Michelin has no dots at all.
 
I've found my spoke wheels, front or rear, usually require about 1 to 3 ounces of weight to balance them. With the about 3/4 oz. weights I routinely use, that's 2 to 3 usually. For the fronts, I bought some nice chrome ones. I tried squeezing one on the spoke but it wouldn't "crimp" at all, and all I ended up doing was ruining the chrome, lol. So now I drill and tap them for a small set screw. Here's a front with two weights installed .....

Balancing3.jpg


For the rears, since you can't really see them as much, I just use plain lead weights, but ones I cast myself, lol .....

Installed.jpg


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cra-z1 said:
I removed my tire today (Michelin Road Classic on Z1900) and balanced the rim before installing the tire and then rebalance the tire (front)to see if I can get rid of a persistent bounce out of the front. I have had that issue with a few Shinkos so I thought I would try a better tire. It's been frustrating to say the least after removing and rotating the tire multiple times, rebalancing, checking true but cant seem to get the bounce out so I thought I would try to balance the rim first. The Michelin has no dots at all.
Click to expand...
I had a michelin that was mounted on front of an XS I bought, in spite of a pile of weights, it was a shaker. Did like you, remount rebalence before I tossed it and put on a Shinko, then it was fine. On close inspection the Michelin had flaws in the cords. No company is error free.
:twocents: When fighting front wheel wobbles and bouncing don't ignore a possible issue with the REAR wheel. It's happened to me more than once where a rear wheel issue was felt, seen in the front.
 
gggGary said:
Turn signals installed and working (there's a shocking story hidden in that little statement)
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@GLJ made me tell y'all the back story on this. (cough; you owe us fork emulator adapter pics buddy...)
So bike had the handlebar switch and a blinker can but no signals. I really hate no signals.
Side story; friend is hobbling around in a cast cuz he took the turn signals off a late model Triumph :doh:, lady that T boned him said "I thought you were waving at me...)
So dug in the bins and installed some used early signals and that's where the fun started. Handlebar switch was fubar, finally after about three rounds of trying to fix it ordered a new one. But Mr. patience made another go at fixing it, found the contact spring was weak, replaced it with one from a ballpoint pen, How much longer will we have a ball point pen in a drawer? A plastic spring stop step in the hole was worn out but I just cut the spring a little longer and it fit against the slider metal insert and all good. Cept STILL no turn signals and a buzzing blinker can. Turns out the can was on the wrong pair of wires back there. There were two pairs of brown and brown/white wires with the right bullets for the blinker can but only the "other pair" sent the electricity up to the handlebar switch. Good to go, right? Not so fast mister. That can was still buzzing and when I went to grab it, I got a NASTY shock, from the blinker can ????:umm::shrug::yikes: Took me a while but finally realized my longer switch spring was creating a short from the can output to ground that was "buzzing" the can. I guess it started acting like a model T buzzer ignition coil, with rapid make and collapse of the coil circuit causing a field that energized the insulated from ground can. The Ole GG was the butt of the joke.
Anyways a plastic shim from a milk bottle separated the spring end from the metal slider and Bob's my uncle. Been riding it here n there, and it's working good. Only nibbles on my sales efforts.
 
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gggGary said:
@GLJ made me tell y'all the back story on this. (cough; you owe us fork emulator adapter pics buddy...)
So bike had the handlebar switch and a blinker can but no signals. I really hate no signals.
Side story; friend is hobbling around in a cast cuz he took the turn signals off a late model Triumph :doh:, lady that T boned him said "I thought you were waving at me...)
So dug in the bins and installed some used early signals and that's where the fun started. Handlebar switch was fubar finally after about three rounds of trying to fix it ordered a new one. But Mr. patience made another go at fixing it, found the contact spring was weak replaced it with one from a ballpoint pen, How much longer will we have a ball point pen in a drawer? a plastic spring stop step in the hole was worn out but I just cut the spring a little longer and it fit against the slider metal insert and all good. Cept no turnsignals and a buzzing blinker can. Turns out the can was on the wrong pair of wries back there. There were two pairs of brown ad brown white wires with the right bullets for th blinker can but only the "other pair" worked. Good to go right" not so fast mister. that can was still buzzing and when II went to grab it to look at it I got a NASTY shock from the blinker can. ????:umm::shrug::yikes: Took me a while but finally realized my longer switch spring was creating a short from the can output to ground that was "buzzing" the can. I guess it started acting like a model T buzzer ignition coil, with rapid make and collapse of the coil circuit causing a field that energized the insulated from ground can. The Ole GG was the butt of the joke.
Anyways a plastic shim from a milk bottle separated the spring end from the metal slider and Bob's my uncle. Been riding it here n there, and it's working good. Only nibbles on my sales efforts.
Click to expand...
Your tales from the SOIR are electrifying.
 
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