And that's a heads up RE quality of the PO's work.........
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HONDA GL1000 1975/6 Called Merlin.
- Thread starter Adamc
- Start date
MERLIN FUEL FOR THOUGHT.
I was tempted to follow Jan_P recommendation to run Merlin for a few 50 to 100 mile runs to see if the rough running would clear itself.
However, after finding the fuel lines had splits in them and no line clips securing them it gave me the ebe-jee-bees, so thats not happening.
So I decided to run the bike up to temps again and see if the bike would start easier and idle better.
I removed the points cover to see what I had there. No electronic conversion so I cleaned the points with some fine emmery paper.
Starting took a lot of cranking, but it did fire up after a while. It refused to idle and died if I let the revs drop.
Tried this about three times and remained unconvinnced about the carb condition. Then the smell of petrol.
Looking I noticed a fairly bad fuel leak coming from N0 2 carb.; and fuel pooling up on top of the engine!
I am now resigned to removing the whole carb assembly for a refurbishment. Carb seal rebuild kit has been ordered from David Silver Honda Spares which should be delivered this week.
The fuel lines are extremley dificult, if not impossible, to replace with the carbs in situ on the motor.
New fuel lines and clips have also been ordered.
Can you belive the previous owner said he would ''happily fire it up and ride from the Midlands to Wales with confidence''
Thank god I sent my delivery team to pick it up in a truck!
Ads.
I was tempted to follow Jan_P recommendation to run Merlin for a few 50 to 100 mile runs to see if the rough running would clear itself.
However, after finding the fuel lines had splits in them and no line clips securing them it gave me the ebe-jee-bees, so thats not happening.
So I decided to run the bike up to temps again and see if the bike would start easier and idle better.
I removed the points cover to see what I had there. No electronic conversion so I cleaned the points with some fine emmery paper.
Starting took a lot of cranking, but it did fire up after a while. It refused to idle and died if I let the revs drop.
Tried this about three times and remained unconvinnced about the carb condition. Then the smell of petrol.
Looking I noticed a fairly bad fuel leak coming from N0 2 carb.; and fuel pooling up on top of the engine!
I am now resigned to removing the whole carb assembly for a refurbishment. Carb seal rebuild kit has been ordered from David Silver Honda Spares which should be delivered this week.
The fuel lines are extremley dificult, if not impossible, to replace with the carbs in situ on the motor.
New fuel lines and clips have also been ordered.
Can you belive the previous owner said he would ''happily fire it up and ride from the Midlands to Wales with confidence''
Thank god I sent my delivery team to pick it up in a truck!
Ads.
Well it’s probably a good idea to give everything a good once over anyways, and give your carbs a good scrub. 
Shocked I tell you, just shocked!
“ It ran good when I parked it! “
Shocked I tell you, just shocked!
“ It ran good when I parked it! “
I get the impression you are a cad. I like you already.
WARNING: Drink & eBay at your peril!
Merlin seemed like a 'too good to be true' acquisition from the off.
Allegedly the promise of a reliable great runner to take me and Mrs C on a few journeys was but a lie.
Well the initial start-ups were promising but it weren't no reliable runner. At least it was a runner of sorts.
As I dig deeper and peel away the onion skins of poor restoration the truth is out.
Today I left work early and decided to take the carbs off the bike.
Have to say what looked like a daunting process took just 20 minutes of thoughtful work; but revealed many short cuts by the PO's.
Missing washers from bolts, and liberal use of shitty sealant where O-rings or seals should be.
Many wires have been stripped and poorly connected and or badly insulated.
Air Release Valve as an example:
Spot the missing o-ring.
Split and broken control cables:
Even the intake manifolds have shitty sealant where the rubber O rings should have been.
All new seals have now arrived and new control cables have been ordered from David Silver Spares.
Let The Rebuild Begin.
Ads.
Merlin seemed like a 'too good to be true' acquisition from the off.
Allegedly the promise of a reliable great runner to take me and Mrs C on a few journeys was but a lie.
Well the initial start-ups were promising but it weren't no reliable runner. At least it was a runner of sorts.
As I dig deeper and peel away the onion skins of poor restoration the truth is out.
Today I left work early and decided to take the carbs off the bike.
Have to say what looked like a daunting process took just 20 minutes of thoughtful work; but revealed many short cuts by the PO's.
Missing washers from bolts, and liberal use of shitty sealant where O-rings or seals should be.
Many wires have been stripped and poorly connected and or badly insulated.
Air Release Valve as an example:
Spot the missing o-ring.
Split and broken control cables:
Even the intake manifolds have shitty sealant where the rubber O rings should have been.
All new seals have now arrived and new control cables have been ordered from David Silver Spares.
Let The Rebuild Begin.
Ads.
Has anyone ever bought a used motorcycle .. Ever ..When there was not something that was not OK
and was missed at the purchase.
Ranging from a write off to minor adjustments.
You have to bite the bullet and try to solve it open the wallet get your hands dirty
Sometimes at the roadside. Thinking a...hhh not again.
and was missed at the purchase.
Ranging from a write off to minor adjustments.
You have to bite the bullet and try to solve it open the wallet get your hands dirty
Sometimes at the roadside. Thinking a...hhh not again.
Amazing isn’t it? Some people just don’t take any pride in their work. You’ll get ‘er sorted Adam!
VIDEO HELP ON YOUTUBE:
There are tons of videos on YouTube to help with Goldwing projects; most of them are poorly excecuted and badly filmed.
I watched these two which were very clear and helpful:
Carb Extraction:
This is a British chap who is a serial collector & restorer of various machines. Currently restoring a clapped out Wing.
Carb Rebuild:
This guy is quite detailed in explaining and demonstrating the Carb rebuild:
There are tons of videos on YouTube to help with Goldwing projects; most of them are poorly excecuted and badly filmed.
I watched these two which were very clear and helpful:
Carb Extraction:
This is a British chap who is a serial collector & restorer of various machines. Currently restoring a clapped out Wing.
Carb Rebuild:
This guy is quite detailed in explaining and demonstrating the Carb rebuild:
Some folks should never be allowed near working on a motorcycle. That's a fact. As someone who likes things to be done properly without necessarily being a perfectionist, I never cease to be disappointed in the stuff some people do.
wildav
XS650 Enthusiast
A squid eating dough ?
CARB BRAKEDOWN.
Following carb-bank removal from the bike I boxed up the complete assembly. Loaded up my truck with the box, and the required tools to work on them at my workplace. The retail shop is currently so quiet renovating the carbs would be time well spent whilst getting paid! (Don't tell shop the owner..
).
Set up a work station in the shop. Clean white towel on the surface to catch minor spills; more importantly to catch small parts making a bid for freedom. 5 x Clean containers with lids at the ready for individual carb body parts (4 in picture).
JIS drivers and workshop literature at the ready. New fuel lines, clips and carbs kits at hand.
Lots of photos taken for reference, before starting, as these have complicated linkages which I have never dealt with before.; if it ain't a challenge it ain't intersting.
Initial look over showed the factory screws still in place with little evidence of damage; that encouraged me. First job was to remove all the rubber fuel supply tubes. None had securing clips attached, and some were barely connected to the spigots. Most were also suffering from cracking possibly caused by ethanol degredation?
Removal of the top 'dash pots' with the needles showed nothing suprising; all present and correct, clean inside and seems to be working. Just a quick wipe with cleaning solvent. Unlike our Mikuni XS650 carbs all parts were metal even the 'diaphrams'.
Flipp over the complete unit and time to remove the float bowls. As the bike had been standing for over 4 years I was expecting a lot of varnish and crap in there. To my suprise they were all realatively clean; just a little varnish residue. The floats moved freeley. I Checked float heights on each unit and they were widley different to one another; and none to book specification.
three of the gasket seals were intact, but the front left was damaged (The one that leaked badly).
the two visble jets were easily removed by wiggling the metal spring steel retaining piece. Same for the other bodies.
Most of the jets looked ok visually. But one did look totally clogged up with debris.
Two jets in each body have slotted heads leading you to apply a driver which did rotate them. However only the small center jet is screw fit. All others are push fit, and a right bastard to get out. Much fluid application and many sharp taps eventually moved the center ones. Eventually all were removed and cleaned. Unfortunately one jet through which the needle travels is bent. It looks like a PO had tried to force in into the body upsidedown; a new one to be sourced.
Finally each body has a tight fitting metal 'puck' that covers a chanel lower down in the body (blue circle).
One of the 'pucks' is missing in action (red circle)
The only source I can find for a set of 4 of these 'pucks' is from Randakks USA.
$15.36 seems fair enough; but $63.98 is the cheapest shipping offered!
I think I will try and obtain a secondhand body via eBay or FaceAche Fleamarket.
Unfortunately that halts the completeion of this job for now.
Ads.
Following carb-bank removal from the bike I boxed up the complete assembly. Loaded up my truck with the box, and the required tools to work on them at my workplace. The retail shop is currently so quiet renovating the carbs would be time well spent whilst getting paid! (Don't tell shop the owner..
).Set up a work station in the shop. Clean white towel on the surface to catch minor spills; more importantly to catch small parts making a bid for freedom. 5 x Clean containers with lids at the ready for individual carb body parts (4 in picture).
JIS drivers and workshop literature at the ready. New fuel lines, clips and carbs kits at hand.
Lots of photos taken for reference, before starting, as these have complicated linkages which I have never dealt with before.; if it ain't a challenge it ain't intersting.
Initial look over showed the factory screws still in place with little evidence of damage; that encouraged me. First job was to remove all the rubber fuel supply tubes. None had securing clips attached, and some were barely connected to the spigots. Most were also suffering from cracking possibly caused by ethanol degredation?
Removal of the top 'dash pots' with the needles showed nothing suprising; all present and correct, clean inside and seems to be working. Just a quick wipe with cleaning solvent. Unlike our Mikuni XS650 carbs all parts were metal even the 'diaphrams'.
Flipp over the complete unit and time to remove the float bowls. As the bike had been standing for over 4 years I was expecting a lot of varnish and crap in there. To my suprise they were all realatively clean; just a little varnish residue. The floats moved freeley. I Checked float heights on each unit and they were widley different to one another; and none to book specification.
three of the gasket seals were intact, but the front left was damaged (The one that leaked badly).
the two visble jets were easily removed by wiggling the metal spring steel retaining piece. Same for the other bodies.
Most of the jets looked ok visually. But one did look totally clogged up with debris.
Two jets in each body have slotted heads leading you to apply a driver which did rotate them. However only the small center jet is screw fit. All others are push fit, and a right bastard to get out. Much fluid application and many sharp taps eventually moved the center ones. Eventually all were removed and cleaned. Unfortunately one jet through which the needle travels is bent. It looks like a PO had tried to force in into the body upsidedown; a new one to be sourced.
Finally each body has a tight fitting metal 'puck' that covers a chanel lower down in the body (blue circle).
One of the 'pucks' is missing in action (red circle)
The only source I can find for a set of 4 of these 'pucks' is from Randakks USA.
$15.36 seems fair enough; but $63.98 is the cheapest shipping offered!
I think I will try and obtain a secondhand body via eBay or FaceAche Fleamarket.
Unfortunately that halts the completeion of this job for now.
Ads.
I dont have a lathe either, but I may look up a local machinist near to me.
Don't jump yet Adam I messaged a goldwing carb buddy
OK Thanks so much Gary.
Gary is on it. Recent purchase from him saved me a lot of freight cost because he used Pirate Ship. Something to think of in the future. Maybe get parts sent to a friend in the States and get them to reship through Pirate Ship
Similar, from here and a couple other motorbike forums I occasionally mention.
Wordman
XS650 Addict
You might want to email them. Automatic shipping calculators and international shipping seem to be a bad combination.
Wordman
XS650 Addict
It's true, no matter what it is.
Working on my wife's 'new to us' 2003 S-Class. Someone has been inside the driver's door. Broken door panel tabs, pinched wires, and my favorite, half the window regulator was left loose.
It's all back together now. -sigh-
