Horn and flasher


If it wasn’t broke before, let me try it…
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Waterford, MI
Guys I’m looking to replace the flasher can and I’m not sure what I’m looking for as far as a replacement. Bought an Automotive flasher and it must pull too much current because it kept blowing the fuse. I’m sure somebody on here has figured this out. Also I’m pretty sure my horn is toast I’m getting voltage to the unit when I push the button but nothing happens. I also tried a direct hit wire but still nothing so I’m fairly certain it’s the horn. Has anyone rebuilt one or recommend a replacement.
First the horn. The brown wire on the horn is always hot. The pink wire is grounded by the horn switch to sound the horn.

The flasher your using is probably wired wrong internally for the 650 setup and that's why it's popping the fuse. If the flasher packaging had a wiring diagram post it here and it may be possible to rewire the the 650 connector to use it.
TW the power and ground fir the horn is present so I’m pretty sure it’s the horn. I’m actually going to pull one off another bike today and test it that way as for the flasher there is no diagram on the package but it may have one thing to do with the internal resistance.
Automan I can see the internals through the plastic case and it looks like a circuit although not 100% sure on that. How do you rebuild the horn? Is the problem normally in the coil or the diapraphm?
I replaced the horn with the one off my XJ and it works fine. I played with the original for a minute and I could hear it click using a battery on it but it’s not working. I’m unfamiliar with the internals so I don’t know how to go about looking at potential issues but for now I have a horn. I wonder about robbing the flasher off the XJ if it’s compatible.
I ran the screw in and out a couple times and no luck. I was wondering if you could use something to free the insides up without messing up the components.
Alright I looked into this a little further. On the flasher, Br/w appears to be power Black is ground and Br is power from the switch. There seems to be plenty of two prong flashers but the three prong are limited. I can get get adjustable ones for load purposes as the #’s on the OEM case

Those old flashers are load sensitive... more load (watts) and they flash faster.
12.8V 85 C/M
27W X 2 + 3.4W
The number before the "C/M" should be how many times per minute it will flash with rated input voltage and the bulb load listed on the flasher.

The 27w is the wattage rating of the bulb in the signal itself (there's two per side of the bike = x2) and the 3.4w is the wattage of little bulb in the indicator in the speedo.
What I’m reading is with a 3 prong flasher, the indicator on the switch is fed from the third prong. If one of your external bulbs burns out, you will notice an immediate change in speed or failure to flash at all. This tells you that you have a problem, however I appear to have the right indicator bulb burnt out but when the flasher was working it didn’t make a difference

With the two prong flasher, the indicator bulb is in parallel with the turning lights and if one of the turning bulbs burns out, you may not notice any change in the flashing rate. Does this mean I can use a two prong?
Belay that burned out indicator bulb. Upon further inspection into the headlamp bucket I had a darkgreen wire with the black. Yay! One less issue.
I think many do change to a 2 wire auto unit. You just lose the self canceling feature is all. I think you also have to move some wires in the harness plug. I know it's been written up here (which flasher, how to wire it). Do a search and maybe you'll find it.
Thanks 5T, I was looking and nothing came up but maybe I didn’t word it right and the only self canceling on this bike is when you remember you have the blinker on lol.
I've used the one below with success. The brown and brown/white wire attached to the two spades and the white/green-stripe wire can remain in the connector as is not attached.


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In prep for my flashers arriving today there is some re-wiring to accept the two pin. It only involves swapping around the female blade connectors in the plug. First step is press the tab underneath the plug to open the back. I figured I would be careful because who knows what a piece of 7BCA4869-7FB4-457E-B096-BDC6B2E30342.jpeg46 yo plastic is gonna do.EE00157D-67B6-48AC-B4A0-BCFCCDA5B407.jpeg
with the back open I inserted a small blade into the access holes on the face and gave it a little wiggle to get it under the tab.2FE67F0E-078D-4977-AC6E-63939382931F.jpegE7479307-82B1-4E58-865B-E91EC1A47C64.jpeg That released all the connectors. Don’t forget to bend the tab back up just a little so it clips back in the plug. 1B646A4D-9769-4FA9-99DF-651DCE323833.jpeg091805BF-C4AE-449F-8F6C-5CC52440CF9F.jpegThe new flasher won’t need the black wire but I need to wait until I can look at the tabs.
When I pull crimps out of plugs like that, I wire wheel them clean and shiny with the little wire wheels in a Dremel, then coat them with dielectric grease before sticking them back in.

Had this sitting there waitingimage.jpgonly problem is now I gotta wait because my dumbass left the key on and I have to charge the battery. Luckily kill switch was off.
Oh yea! I got flashers! I might just order a horn off Amazon also. They're like $10.