How to change front and rear sprocket new chain

davenu

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Is there already a step by step thread on this? looking for info so I can put the new sprockets and xchain on my 83 special- thanks
 
Remove the LH engine side cover. Clean clean clean! Use a chisel then other dull tools to carefully flatten the tab that holds the sprocket nut (36mm!). Check and see if the nut was loose, it often is and that makes an oil leak. you can use the rear brake to hold the shaft while you loosen the nut. NOW remove the chain and rear wheel. Same procedure for the rear sprocket bolts, but they are a lot easier. Loosen the axle adjusters all the way and reinstall the wheel, install the new front sprocket, note the recess on the nut faces IN, it is futzy work keeping the splined washer in place on the output shaft while you tighten the nut, be SURE you get it right or you'll be back in there. Install the chain now you can get the final torque on the front sprocket nut by using the brake to hold the shaft. bend the tabs back up to hold the nuts.
Chain install; if you are using a clip style master link the clip is pushed on and off from the end with a slip joint pliers NOT over the top of the pin. The open end of the clip faces away from the direction of travel. If you have a stake type master link you need to use a real staking tool/press.

That's about it. Check chain tension in several places. set at the tightest place you find. recheck in 100 miles or so.
 
Last edited:
Is there already a step by step thread on this? looking for info so I can put the new sprockets and xchain on my 83 special- thanks

Hi Dave,
ggGary's post sez it all.
In addition, NOW is the time to decide if you need a different tooth-count rear sprocket.
In my experience there's no middle ground with the sprocket nut, it'll either spin off by hand after the tab washer is straightened or it'll need an impact wrench to shift it.
 
Hi Dave welcome to the site.
Where in Fla do ya live?
left side cover removal video
front sprocket nut torque (47 ft-lb)
drum brake instructions
I would loosen this nut before removing chain and jacking up the rear wheel.
REAR WHEEL Axle nut:torque (l08 ft-lb)
A. Removal
Place machine on center stand.
Disconnect the tension bar, and the brake
rod from the rear shoe plate. Pay strict
attention to the presence and location of
the tension bar lock washer and cotter
key. These are safety parts and must be
included during assembly.
Loosen the chain tension adjusting nuts
and bolts on both right and left sides.
Remove the rear axle cotter pin and nut.
Remove the right-hand chain adjuster and
distance collar.
Remove the rear brake plate.
Lean the machine to the left and remove
the rear wheel assembly.
WHEEL SPROCKET
1. Bend the lock washer ears flat.
2. Remove the sprocket mounting bolts.
Check the lock washer and bolt for
damage. If the lock washer is not bent
over the hexagon bolt head, or is broken,
or the bolt is loose, the sprocket can come
loose. sprocket bolts torque (22 ft-lb)
 
A note on the front sprocket nut - this is one of those items that Yamaha changed torque values for several times during the production run, don't know why. If you study the various manuals, you'll find a rating as high as 94 ft/lbs on the early models to as low as 36 ft/lbs on some of the later ones. If the nut isn't really tight, you'll get an oil leak, so it's accepted practice to use the older higher values.
 
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