How-To: Rebuild XS650 Forks / Install Lowering Kit

It seems I wasn't the only one trying to work on forks today. You can follow along by reading and if you have any questions I am sure myself or any else here can help get you rebuilt.
 
Every now and then, my photobuckets gets overloaded with views... It should come back in a few days. I'll see if I can put this up on the blog for a more reliable how-to, so we won't have to deal with this..
 
working on 1975 forks and the 17mm cut out socket would be way to big any help, looks like maybe a 12mm would fit hard to tell in the tube.
Thanks
 
working on 1975 forks and the 17mm cut out socket would be way to big any help, looks like maybe a 12mm would fit hard to tell in the tube.
Thanks
dedede, on my 1975 forks I used a piece of 1/2" id pipe (heavy wall) and flattened one end down to 10mm(so you have an oval). Worked great, i also used an impact on the allen head to brake it loose (didn't hit it hard just enough to brake it loose).
 
Pros - lower stance
Cons - less suspension travel and ground clearance. Could be a problem in the curves on a cafe bike. I wouldn't do it on a cafe.
 
Ok, first off...Thankx Hugh for the great tutorial on lowering forks and the great little for lower-ers that you make. Dropped mine 2" worked like a charm...one thing though...:doh:...for some reason I took the circlips out that are right above the brass/bronze bushings inside the lower leg under the seal and all and didn't re-install them...I couldn't budge those bushings and am hoping that not having those circlips in won't be a big deal....anyone????
 
would lowering the forks on a cafe acceptable?what are the pros and cons of lowered fork?

Actually, we have a TON of Cafe' customers that lower the front ends of these bikes. They typically lower the front end 2" and that helps to reduce travel and stiffen up the front end. A good thing on these old bikes. Of course, that will also affect the handling, it will turn faster as it will have been "de-raked" if you do not change the rear suspension height at the same time. I have found my "de-raked" bikes to handle really well in the twisties...

Hugh
 
Lowering the front will indeed have the effect of reducing rake. If I were to lwer the front, I (personally) would ensure using a straight rate spring suited to my own weight. 4 inches of travel is relatively common nowadays on sportier chassis bikes, so it will probably do well, just make sure you get the internals calibrated well if you have sporting intentions.
 
Like many, I've been creeping on this form long enough to buy a bike and chop it up. Also like many, I have a limited amount of tools and money. As a thank you to everyone who takes the time to post up solutions to common problems, I thought I'd post up a pic of a great do it yourself tool.

When disassembling forks, you need to buy a 17mm hex bit (like used on some VW/Audi oil plugs) which can be found for $5.00 online or in my case (in Canada at PartsSource or Princess Auto). Others have chopped up or welded a 17mm socket.

Instead, you can take a common 17mm bolt (found everywhere on the bike) and attach a 17mm nut and acorn nut (also found everywhere). Tighten the two nuts together and attach to a long series of socket extensions and voila!

The pics will do a lot better job than I at explaining!

AS A TIP, USE ELECTRIC TAPE TO HOLD THE BOLT INSIDE THE SOCKET SO IT DOESN'T COME LOSE INSIDE THE FORK TUBE.

Let me know if you have any questions, good luck!
 

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You have 34mm forks, totally different internally than the 35's but the same principle applies to lowering them. Our spacers won't fit though - they are specific to the 35's
 
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