I think this 1972 XS2 has potential

I started dissecting the XS2 wiring harness today to see what I could learn about the history of all the hacking on it. One interesting thing was the fried Black wire for the Rectifier. I wonder what could have happened to cause this to short like like it did and melt the Black wire.View attachment 360915View attachment 360916View attachment 360917View attachment 360918
Pretty much a "gotta do" on a new to you XS650: Ohm out your rotor across the slip rings. Should be in the neighborhood of 5.2-5.7 ohms when the meter settles. Below 5 and it's shot and will strain other electronics.
 
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^^^This. First thing I did when I got my dead 650D. Luckily all was good so I cleaned the copper tracks and fitted new carbon brushes.

Second thing was check the rectifier and regulator. I found the rectifier was questionable but the regulator was like new under it's cover. Anyway, I replaced both with modern items, very cheap to do and I shouldn't be stuck by the roadside with charging issues.
 
That's scary. You got any ideas on how water got in?
Are the motor, tranny turning free?
It's a mystery. Motor had no water in it and everything looks clean, tranny spins free and shifts though the gears so the starter just don't make sense. I'm almost wondering if maybe the starter went bad at some point and someone swapped it for this junk one. The rest of the bike is too clean for the bad starter to make any sense. I haven't got to the rotor yet but it's high on my list. I'm trying to take my time on this one and stretch the rehab over the winter so I got something to do. At the end of this year I'm semi-retiring and I'm gonna need something to do.
 
I was able to get the replacement starter in this weekend and I did a compression check. Not good news. The Right cylinder had 92lbs and the left side had 30lbs. I'll put some air to it and see where the majority of my compression is going, maybe I'll get lucky and it's just carbon but it's looking like I'm going to have to tear it down.
 
Not read through but it looks as if the first bike has a leading zero on the odometer
If so I would wait tearing it down.
Oil in cylinders and perhaps a Valve play check . Valves may not move perfectly There is tight play in guides on a low mileage machine
Rings can sit a bit in the grooves and so
After some movement compression tends to get better,
I would use a careful starting process ,Oil in and move a little ,,wait days and move again keep on a while.
eventually start it and then still take it slowly. Ensure there is lubrication
But I would not tear it down unless a bore scope or something else give facts to something
 
Not read through but it looks as if the first bike has a leading zero on the odometer
If so I would wait tearing it down.
Oil in cylinders and perhaps a Valve play check . Valves may not move perfectly There is tight play in guides on a low mileage machine
Rings can sit a bit in the grooves and so
After some movement compression tends to get better,
I would use a careful starting process ,Oil in and move a little ,,wait days and move again keep on a while.
eventually start it and then still take it slowly. Ensure there is lubrication
But I would not tear it down unless a bore scope or something else give facts to something
I do hope I can get lucky and it's something like you mention. I did go through a process of oiling the cylinders and letting it sit, rotating it with the kick start, squirting oil in the top end etc.. before I ever got to the compression check. Thanks for all the suggestions! I do appreciate that!
 
nice finds, the xs2 begs for a patina job! my latest barn find (not an XS) stood 30 years in a garage, cleaned up to like new with a wash or two.

I wouldnt worry about the low compression on a bike that stood for years. if anything, id adjust the valves with some extra clearance, give each a tap with drift and hammer (while closed!), to hear they click back to place, 99% its rust & debris around the sealing edge.
then id give it a try, gas and spark....
 
I do hope I can get lucky and it's something like you mention. I did go through a process of oiling the cylinders and letting it sit, rotating it with the kick start, squirting oil in the top end etc.. before I ever got to the compression check. Thanks for all the suggestions! I do appreciate that!

Yes I do believe it is a gospel to spread People here on the forum can be to quick start wrenching.
Carburetors is one such domain.
Kick start runs like S*hit petrol flowing people takes it out and try to find the fault.
Little bit cooler heads , Tap the carburetor on the outside and then after 2 tanks things have changed
often to an acceptable status.
Might still be necessary to do an overhaul but often not.

I dont know about this yours machine ,But if have been sitting in a barn somewhere those effects mentioned may well be a factor
The valve guides have tight play and there have been some oil that can have .. changed to varnish . That is not unrealistic suspect that the movement is restricted. and slow at the start.
 
I'm down to the point of trying to fire this bike up, but it's cold outside and I'm a wus, so brakes it is! Thought I'd see what 30+ years of neglect looked like and oh boy I was not disappointed! The Master was demon possessed so I thought I'd try my luck at an exorcism but no luck. Ironically the Caliper had no pitting at all. What do you guys suggest for a good replacement Master Cylinder and lines using the original caliper?

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Got the Brake parts from MikesXS today. I wanted to use the original style Brake Light Switch but the Master Cylinder from MikesXS is not machined to accommodate the original style switch. I dug out a piece of tubing that I could mount the MC to and chucked it up in the drill press. I used a 3/8 Mill bit to plunge a pocket that the switch needed and drilled a couple holes for the pins and it I'm back in business! Thanks @GLJ for you post on how you did this! It got me going in the right direction and was a big help! Love this site!

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The deeper I dive into this bike I do believe that it has at some point sat in some water. I've been finding more things that seem to point to that like for example the speedometer gear and all of the wheel bearings bad beyond use. The Speedometer gear was so bad that I couldn't even get the large drive gear off after soaking it in PBlaster for days. All the bearings had corrosion in them to the point I had to get new ones. The odd thing though is I would have expected to see some evidence of water damage in the Alternator area but I don't and it doesn't look to be replaced 🤔. I was able to source a replacement speedometer gear that is in great shape so I'm back in business.
The good one
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The bad one
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