ID this ignition system.

[MacMcMacmac]

There is a pretty good current draw on the red wire from the fuse box. I had the bike running and noticed a small amount of smoke and found the red wire coming from the starter solenoid to the fuse box was very hot. It was melting the vinyl connector cover. The fuse itself was hot to the touch.

Charging seems to drop out after it runs for awhile. The battery shows 12.65V with the bike off, but drops to 10.5 as soon as the ignition is switched on. I had swapped out the 55w/60w halogen for a stock 35w/40w, so I don't think headlight draw was a factor. I can start the bike and rev it mildly to get 13.75V. Then after it idles awhile, charging stops and I'm immediately back to 10.5V and falling. It almost seems like something is being thermally protected.

I'm not sure, but I think I heard the safety relay drop out after a fairly long delay after shutting the bike down.

 

[Jim]

The fuse itself was hot to the touch.

You using the original fuses or the newer blade type?

 

[Jim]

I can start the bike and rev it mildly to get 13.75V. Then after it idles awhile, charging stops and I'm immediately back to 10.5V and falling. It almost seems like something is being thermally protected.

Have you checked resistance at the rotor slip rings?

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Original fuses. Fusebox looks brand new so I'm loathe to replace it. Slip rings ohmed out ok, but getting continuity to the engine cases and crank end, even with the regulator disconnected, the rectifier black and brown leads removed, and the hot brush wire hanging disconnected. May be a fault in the wires feeding the slip rings.

 

[Jan_P]

Maybe confusing this with another thread
Safety relay is that not a later Model
Fusebox many fuses then one can remove the charging fuse and other run a bit on the ignition fuse so control if the ignition is working
and don't ground out

There is something to work on

amount of smoke and found the red wire coming from the starter solenoid to the fuse box was very hot. It was melting the vinyl connector cover. The fuse itself was hot to the touch.

Thinking it can be disconnected using kick starter .

 

[MacMcMacmac]

I 'll just run two new dedicated wires to the brushes from the regulator. I think I'm tapping into the general ground before the regulator using the stock plugs. Should have just gotten a vr115 and ignored the nylon screws and second brush wire.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

So, running 12v to the powered brush and the sense pin, and running a wire back from the brush with the nylon screws to the regulated ground changed nothing. On a hunch, I disconnected the regulator and powered up the bike with the key, and no heat. When I reconnected the regulator, the brake light dimmed and everything got toasty again, so it seems like a bad regulator.

Just a thought though, wouldn't the regulator be providing max ground with the engine off? If so, why would it not cause the same issue with a good regulator?

At any rate, I'll see if I can find better one. This was a $38 one from Amazon. It looks like the regular Chrysler style, but it was much smaller. No surprise if you look at a other post of mine where I opened one up and found it was mostly full of sand with a pc board about the size of a small cracker epoxied to the case.

Also, this bike is the gift that keeps on giving, as trying to remove the aftermarket rotor to replace it with one I repaired a few years ago reveals that whoever made this one, managed to make the large diameter thread for the puller just big enough to be able to mount it by hand, and just small enough so that it pulls straight off when any torque is applied. Good thing it ohms out perfectly, for now.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Perfect n.o.s. sidepanel. This bike is too clean not to put on the road. Oddly enough, there were several of these on Ebay, but a left sidepanel is nowhere to be found.