Identifying an oil leak(s). Leaking only when the engine is running?

Sometimes a retightening can be needed Especially if after a rebuild.
And after standing still. Not overtighten so damage is done.
Some heat cycles Things change Oil gets on Seals .Gaskets gets flattened over time

At times there is a leak and it can stop for a while and then come again.
So I usually wait until I change seals. ,,yes it can drip a little .But still nothing like
old USA or Brit Bikes.
I Use Permatex which the Folks here dont like . ..Not to much
My defence is that worn not flat surfaces. Maybe not perfectly clean either .Are better off with some Chemical
I know it is not perfect and mistakes happen. But it works rather well .I have tried hold back on it
But I end up doing it all over again feeling like a fool.
Back in the day no one had a Torque Wrench
 
But today, you should have one, especially for multiple small fasteners on an oil bearing cover. The trick to sealing these is not making all the fasteners really tight but rather making them all the same. The bolts and screws are M6. The recommended torque is 5 to 8 ft/lbs. Being an old bike, and going into aluminum alloy, I don't like to use the max. For years I was using 80 in/lbs but recently I've backed that off to about 70. The covers still seal and none of the fasteners have come loose on me. I do put anti-seize on all of these so that 70 to 72 in/lbs is actually applying more force than that.

I have quite a collection of torque wrenches because they work best (most accurate) in about the middle of their given range. I have a couple nice small ones that only go up to 150 or 200 in/lbs, and I use these the most out of all the ones I have .....

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