ignition issue!!!

GreySquare85

XS650 Enthusiast
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guys im new here so i hope this is in the right spot. ive got a 1981 xs and the other day coming home after about 30 min of riding it started spitting and sputtering and then died. pulled over and turned the key off and kicked it and away it went but it was still spitting and sputtering but i made it home. so now it starts but takes 50 kicks and only revs maybe twice and shes dead again.. whats going on???!!! ive tested the coil and primary is 2.9 ohms and second is 086.6K ohms.. ill try to add a picture of the secondary test bc im so confused. any help would be awesome. IMG_3636.jpg
 
i have a question about the timing part. if it was the timing wouldnt run normal when it does start would it? bc when it starts you can blip the throttle and its nice and smooth but then dies quickly
 
I suspect a shorted rotor . Please measure across battery voltage
off
on nothing running
on started engine
and report should be around 14 V
 
ok so i have an update maybe. i tested the coil again after watching some videos. if i test from either primary lead to the secondary it show OL. i hope im checking that right. ive tried either side primary and secondary and i always get nothing. the primary shows 3.9 ohms
 
ok i have an update on my issue...so i decided my coil had went bad so i ordered a used mp-08 off ebay. made the wires and mount and the bike fired right up. took it for the maden voyage with new coil and 15 seconds after take off it died. just like before. all you have to do is come to a stop cycle the key put it in N and one kick and she fires back up and usually your good until you shut it off and try to take off again.. im really confused as to whats going on here.. and when i say it starts up and is usually good the first day i rode it 22 miles and the next day {yesterday} i started it and it died 3 times. always to restart. anyone ever had this issue? so i have ordered a pigtail from a member and a GN250 cdi box. problem is the cdi box is coming from freakin china i guess bc its 2 weeks away according to amazon...any insite would be great.
 
oh and when i say it dies its like turning the key off. no pops or bangs or sputters. just zero everything.
 
Before more ignition system checking, I'd suggest checking the battery and charging system. Your description points to potential loss of power to the ignition from weak battery.
 
oh and when i say it dies its like turning the key off. no pops or bangs or sputters. just zero everything.
ok i finally got around to checking voltage and it 12.9 at idle and 14.3 off idle
So those last charging specs are close to good (spec 14.5 @2000rpm). Next, "zero everything" (accurate description important) are you meaning in addition to "stops running", you lose dash lights, horn, etc.? What type and how old is battery? If you have pics of open fuse box could be helpful. Does key switch feel easy turn and "clicky" or rough and "mushy" at different positions?
 
Put a voltmeter on the handlebars where you can watch it while riding.
The TCIs are all 40 years old that's a long time for a printed circuit board and components to keep working.
 
So those last charging specs are close to good (spec 14.5 @2000rpm). Next, "zero everything" (accurate description important) are you meaning in addition to "stops running", you lose dash lights, horn, etc.? What type and how old is battery? If you have pics of open fuse box could be helpful. Does key switch feel easy turn and "clicky" or rough and "mushy" at different positions?
Well i never really paid attention to the dash lights…when it does it roll to a stop and put it in neutral to restart it and the neutral light works. Oh and maybe i should have said this before. Its kick start only. That pinion gear for the starter is messed up. The battery is def not the right one bc it came out of my 4 wheeler just as a test battery and i just left it in there. I can take pictures of the fuse block this evening. It has spade fuses if that helps
 
Yes then. If the problem is intermittent, the best way to find it is to rig a voltmeter at ign. switch brown wire to ground so that verifies if power is lost. The other proper check is checking the ignition circuit for power from battery to ign, coils with test light or voltmeter. All pics helpful all angles and places on bike to see how it's rigged.
 
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