Installing a Vape all in one charging and ignition system.

Got it. Keeping your diagram for future use. Just so I'm clear, installing the Vape unit following the instructions and wiring diagram 92ir12 (showing the relay) will result in the stock kill switch not working? The only way to "kill" the coils is to turn the main switch off?
 
peterg said:
Got it. Keeping your diagram for future use. Just so I'm clear, installing the Vape unit following the instructions and wiring diagram 92ir12 (showing the relay) will result in the stock kill switch not working? The only way to "kill" the coils is to turn the main switch off?
Click to expand...
The ignition switch only disconnects the "other" electric loads from the battery. The charging system output is always connected to the battery through the regulator. It is in the stock system also.
Theoretically even with the ignition switch off, rolling down a hill in gear (engine turning) a PMA alternator would still charge the battery.
So with an independant kill switch you can shut off the main switch, leave the engine running and charge the battery with everything else unpowered. "sneak out mode" If everyone in the neighborhood is deaf. :lmao:
 
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I think I understand how the charging system works. What I wasn't clear on is how this system and a kill switch work together based on the instructions and diagram 92ir12. The instructions and wiring diagram 92ir12 that come with the kit seem to eliminate the kill switch function. I always turn off the motor with the kill switch, then turn off the main switch and know to use it in an emergency.

I understand from your diagram how to make use of the stock kill switch.
 
I use the stock kill switch on my 75. It uses 12v in and 12v out on the run sides and kill the 12v out on the off side by opening the circuit.(basic on/off switch.) Just take the 12v out wire from the kill switch and feed it to the relay supplied with the Vape system. 12v to the relay opend the normally closed relay letting the engine run, take away the 12v and the relay closes and grounds the blue wire killing the engine. If you ever end up with a dead battery just pull the blue wires from the relay and the bike will start.
 
I realise it's a little late but when I was fitting the rotor for one of these I found a rotor puller very handy. You can use it to hold the rotor just a mm away from seating on the crankshaft, enough to spin it to exactly where you need it to be before unscrewing the puller and letting those magnets pull it down. Once the magnets are holding it in place it's difficult to shift accidentally.
 
For someone that may want to run batteryless, they need a kill switch AND a ignition lock from a bike that has magneto CDI (or points) ignition from the factory. So that both the ignition lock and the kill switch are NC, and go to open when you turn the key to on/ put kill switch in run. If you want to keep the stock ignition lock and kill switch, a small battery is all that is needed, and that will also help with smooth operation of inicator/ turn lights. The smallest lead battery available, or even better, a small LiPoFe battery will do the trick, if your bike is kick start only. On my RD350, I use a Super B 2600, which weighs 450 g/ 1lb. On my electric start XS650 D (and still using battery/ coil/points ignition), I use a Super B 5200, which weighs just 900 g/ 2 lbs. More than enough juice to start at least a stock 650, and most likely a hi comp 750 as well (I have used that same battery on a hi comp Ducati 680 with no problem at all, and also used a different LiPoFe battery of the same size on a Ducati 944 with out problems)
 
gggGary said:
I'm not too worried about the Vape VR charging a lithium, there WILL be an easy to see at all times Voltmeter plumbed in at the battery terminals.
Click to expand...

Gary, just a little heads up regarding voltmeters. When I fitted the Powerdynamo to my RD, I wanted to check the charging voltage straight away. As mentioned before , I am using a small Super B 2600 LiPoFe battery on the RD. When measuring the voltage with my 30$ (read cheap) multimeter, it read 18 to 19 V with running engine and the 55 w H4 Low beam on. When measuring my car with the same meter, it read just over 14 V. I then asked my buddy to bring his Fluke with true RMS, to double check, that meter showed around 14.5 V. This is many years ago, and nothing bad has happened, so I believe all is still fine :)
Point of my story is, not all volt meters will give a correct reading with a Vape/ Powerdynamo. Why, I do not know. Could be either interference from the ignition circuits, or just "noise" from the charging circuits.
 
Yes without a strong "dampener" read; lead acid battery, you get pulsing DC, not a nice smooth flat line of voltage. Cheap voltmeters that don't have averaging circuitry, https://www.webopedia.com/TERM/R/RMS.html will show "unusual" numbers, the readings tend to improve at higher RPMs
Why I tend to feed voltmeters directly from battery terminals. Those handlebar voltmeter, USB ports with an on off switch are handy. I keep one around with a 30" lead I can plug right into my SAE battery tender plug. this one has a thermometer also but only reads in C not F
 
gggGary said:
Yes without a strong "dampener" read; lead acid battery, you get pulsing DC, not a nice smooth flat line of voltage. Cheap voltmeters that don't have averaging circuitry, https://www.webopedia.com/TERM/R/RMS.html will show "unusual" numbers, the readings tend to improve at higher RPMs
Why I tend to feed voltmeters directly from battery terminals. Those handlebar voltmeter, USB ports with an on off switch are handy. I keep one around with a 30" lead I can plug right into my SAE battery tender plug. this one has a thermometer also but only reads in C not F
Click to expand...
Good point on using the battery tender plug!
 
Short version: Brrm Brrm!

Haven't been completely ignoring this but Ywain was a VERY bare bones project, needed everything before I could go fire. Wired the Vape exactly as the diagram shows (pretty darn easy) After I grafted on a set of YZF600r Forks, rebuilt them, rebuilt and plumbed the brakes, hung a set of BS34s I had rebuilt LAST winter, handlebars, throttle, clutch perch cable, new oil seal, sprockets and chain, just enough wiring for the spark. Welded in mount for the new coil. Hung a temp fuel tank, and from dry carbs it was running on about the 4th kick, sounded good, and steady, revved cleanly no missing, no smoke. :thumbsup:
So; a basic VAPE install is quite straightforward.
Will draw up an american english wiring diagram and get it posted up. May just keep on hanging enough parts to give it a rip up and down the road. Temps in the 50s predicted for Sunday. :cool:
 
In case anyone is doing a 277 750 with megacycle cam. I just finished mine. Here is a picture of the unit installed. I Have engine posted for sale on face book,I have video of test running on stand and in bike. 277 Vape igntion installed.jpg
 
My Ignition 1.jpg My Ignition 3.jpg My Ignition 5.jpg
Credit where it's due! LEGEND_10 was my inspiration with the pics in the previous post. Got mine mocked up. Used some aluminum angle pieces mounted to the 8mm threaded horn bracket holes, (its an 1983 frame) for the coil mounts. Came out pretty nice, simple, clean. On to painting the bare metal bits of the frame where stock brackets were hacked off. Got a boat load of parts coming my way soon and will update progress in a few chunks. Bike started off as a totally bone stock Heritage Special :poo:. Thought I got a good deal at $800 and 2700 original miles but soon found the crankshaft had a death wobble. Working on rolling back the styling clock to 70's...roadster style. Too much $ :doh:. Vape ignition, 277 crank redo, Megacycle cam, 750 kit, 2-1 exhaust. Once running and rolling, I want to do aluminum wheels and 18" rear conversion. Has the HS spoke wheels so kinda looks like its rolling on Daytons! :laughing:.
Any who, trying to pass some time without going out among the fetid, virulent masses. The garage feel safe!
 
Poke! errr :hijack:
gggGary, got another question inquiring minds want to know, are you going to experiment with the starter lockout relay circuit? I know there are just 2 AC legs coming out of the PMA of this unit. Wondering if you could tie into one to activate the starter safety circuit (without letting all that expensive Czech Republic smoke out) :smoke:
 

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