Installing a Vape all in one charging and ignition system.

:popcorn:

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Hi guys.
Ive bought a powerdynamo vape generator and im totally lost when trying to find a manual concerning timing and tdc. Pls help :)

Yamaha xs650 1977
Have a great day!
Dwayne
 
I found and marked TDC on my Vape rotor with the head off just watching the piston. Stiff wire or TDC indicator would work perfect with the head on through the spark plug hole. I took a zip tie and cut a piece to 41mm as accurate as possible and used that to space the sensor flag away from the sensor. This sets your max advance with left piston or both pistons at TDC depending on your crank configuration.
If you have your clutch cover off, you can mark a tooth on the primary gear on the crank against the bearing as a backup. This mark won't slip and can't change so you can use to check the position of your Vape rotor and double check the 41mm gap once you tighten down the rotor on the tapered left end of the crank. If it's off, the kit comes with a rotor puller. Pop it loose and reposition.
It's pretty simple once you read through the (poorly translated) instructions a few times. Make sure you check the gap between the sensor(s) [2 if you have a 277* crank motor] and raised sensor flag on the rotor. I had to adjust mine to the proper gap. Instructions say that this system does not support the start safety relay. Stock is a yellow wire coming out of the stator to cut out starter relay once engine is running. Thinking about putting in a manual start relay cut out switch in the harness to be safe...but then gotta remember to switch it off once the motor's running. Not sure how that's gonna go.
:poke:

Ignition timing is important to be accurate but can also be dynamic. Remember setting timing by road testing!? Advance the dizzy until it pings under hard acceleration, then back it off a hair. Good old days!
 
:agree:
Everything is different from when Yamaha engineers picked those numbers 50 years ago. Some seat of the pant's adjustment is usually my final touch.
A clue; if the kickstart kicks back or STOPS you are too far advanced.
 
Anymore updates on this? Or anyone else running this system? I’m looking to upgrade and stumbled upon this while doing a search for Hughs Hand Built system.
 
This system is awesome and great support from Hoos Racing (Hooser)
Did my first ‘long’ ride on my freshly rebuild 277 750 motor with this charge ignition system. Ran flawless. Only issue I had initially is I like to use dielectric grease on the spark plug boots to keep away corrosion and one popped off on a hot day. Changed to NGK caps. I like that it’s basically like a dirt bike magneto, does not rely on or need the battery to make spark. So you can have a wiring fault and the bike will (should) get you home. Iggy parts are crank mounted so not subjected to the intense heat of the cylinder head like ones mounted to cam. Much more accurate and stable timing too. I had a slight ping at full beans so retarded the timing a couple mm from the suggested 41mm sensor flag gap to 39mm. Other than that small adjustment I can’t be more happy with it. It’s expensive but worth it if you want an upgraded combo PMA and ignition set up.
 
This system is awesome and great support from Hoos Racing (Hooser)
Did my first ‘long’ ride on my freshly rebuild 277 750 motor with this charge ignition system. Ran flawless. Only issue I had initially is I like to use dielectric grease on the spark plug boots to keep away corrosion and one popped off on a hot day. Changed to NGK caps. I like that it’s basically like a dirt bike magneto, does not rely on or need the battery to make spark. So you can have a wiring fault and the bike will (should) get you home. Iggy parts are crank mounted so not subjected to the intense heat of the cylinder head like ones mounted to cam. Much more accurate and stable timing too. I had a slight ping at full beans so retarded the timing a couple mm from the suggested 41mm sensor flag gap to 39mm. Other than that small adjustment I can’t be more happy with it. It’s expensive but worth it if you want an upgraded combo PMA and ignition set up.


Steve - I’m setting up a vape 277 system and my instructions say to set at 43.6mm flag gap. Wondering if there’s different editions with slight changes. Did yours say “41mm” or just decided to start slightly less?
 
Just found and read my 277 Power Dynamo instructions. Power Dynamo was the old company name for Vape.
The given gap is 41mm in the old instructions.
Try the 43.6mm gap and see what advance you get I am curious .
Perhaps the new owners have changed the outer diameter of the rotor.
 
Just found and read my 277 Power Dynamo instructions. Power Dynamo was the old company name for Vape.
The given gap is 41mm in the old instructions.
Try the 43.6mm gap and see what advance you get I am curious .
Perhaps the new owners have changed the outer diameter of the rotor.


Thanks for taking a look, Signal. Appreciate it. That’s the plan.
I haven’t been able to find a dedicated vape/powerdynamo 277 install thread and I’m thinking I may start one. This thread has the most info I’ve been able to find and I’d love to cross reference other installers. Noticing a lot of differences...
 
Steve - I’m setting up a vape 277 system and my instructions say to set at 43.6mm flag gap. Wondering if there’s different editions with slight changes. Did yours say “41mm” or just decided to start slightly less?

Yes, my instructions said 41mm so I took a zip tie and cut it as close as I could to that measurement so it would be a bit stiffer than paper but still curve around the rotor. With 750 kit and flat slides with (what felt like) pretty spot on jetting, I got a slight ping at WFO. So I 'tarded the timing to about 38-39mm and it's been happy. done some long-hot-fast rides with it last summer and no complaints
 
This Vape system looks very interesting. May look into converting the Storm this summer if I can find the extra cash.
 
Got my Vape system installed. Let me say again how awesome this site is with information. Guys that care and take the time to make any process easier. So what I ran into: 1. Getting the rotor lined up perfectly. I got the hole on the cam straight up and used a piston stop for tdc. Still kept moving. I made a spanner wrench. Spanner wrench I feel is necessary to do the job with accuracy. After everything installed and positive rotor was on right, still wouldn’t start. I had spark but was feeling it could be weak. Thought it was the ignition module being far away from the coil. It says in the directions to avoid prolonging “green wire”. I had the module in a fake oil tank under the seat. This lead me to mounting at the front of the engine and closer to the coil. Question: unit seems sealed well. Thoughts? Don’t plan on getting stuck in a rain storm but it happens. Anyway next I had spark and would sputter with starting fluid in the cylinder. Freshly rebuilt carbs but I tore them off and went thru them again. Fires right up now.
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