Yeah it was futsy, IIRC the magnets tended to move it a bit when setting in place.
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Installing a Vape all in one charging and ignition system.
- Thread starter gggGary
- Start date
Heres my quick thoughts. You may be trying to fix a problem that dosent exst. CDI ignitions need to spin fast to generate a good spark, if kicking you must be agressive and if using electric the motor it must turn over briskly.
Lastly CDI sparks are hard to see especially in bright daylight. I once installed a CDI and spent some time trying to fix a no spark problem pushed the bike into the shade of the shed and could see the spark that was there all the time.
Lastly CDI sparks are hard to see especially in bright daylight. I once installed a CDI and spent some time trying to fix a no spark problem pushed the bike into the shade of the shed and could see the spark that was there all the time.
It's fixed. Bringing the module closer to the coil didn't hurt. After the carbs were gone thru and cleaned again it fired right up. Says in the directions these units can be mounted anywhere so I did. Seems rather exposed, so I asked the question about weathering. I did have the doors shut and lights off in the garage checking for spark. Yes it takes a brisk kick to start but starts first kick. It's two separate circuits but I still have a on/off toggle to the fuse box for all my lights. After running, turn everything else on. Forgot to add, no battery. Sparx capacitor only.
The ignition switch only disconnects the "other" electric loads from the battery. The charging system output is always connected to the battery through the regulator. It is in the stock system also.
Theoretically even with the ignition switch off, rolling down a hill in gear (engine turning) a PMA alternator would still charge the battery.
So with an independant kill switch you can shut off the main switch, leave the engine running and charge the battery with everything else unpowered. "sneak out mode" If everyone in the neighborhood is deaf.
I am hooking up a vape system on my 80 xs650. If I want to use the original kill switch do I plug the black wire up to the R/W going to the old coil OR the R/W at the fuse box?
New Vape system works!
Now my front headlight does not come on because there was a yellow wire that came from the old alternator that is disconnected. When I hooked the yellow wire up to the Battery, the light worked but for some reason then my ignition switch wouldn't work. Canceling each other out.
Taillight and turn signals all work fine.
Iv looked at numerous diagrams..
Should I be linking the yellow wire somewhere else?
Now my front headlight does not come on because there was a yellow wire that came from the old alternator that is disconnected. When I hooked the yellow wire up to the Battery, the light worked but for some reason then my ignition switch wouldn't work. Canceling each other out.
Taillight and turn signals all work fine.
Iv looked at numerous diagrams..
Should I be linking the yellow wire somewhere else?
And the fuse basically acts as your light switch? What kind of wattage is your bulb?
And what kind of voltage at say, 3000 rpm?
And what kind of voltage at say, 3000 rpm? Since the Vape is a PMA, the "raw AC voltage" output is pretty much dependent on rpm, as the magnetic field is constant.
Most bikes with oem PMA systems and a directly powered headlight, will have dim lights at idle
Most bikes with oem PMA systems and a directly powered headlight, will have dim lights at idle
I don’t have a tach. Voltage is staying close to the same with the headlight in the circuit and raising the RPM. It’s dim. It’s an H4 filament bulb. I have an led replacement coming. Led with a fan does not fit in this small bucket. Saw the link, ill look into it. Busy on another project. Kids want their go cart running. Haha Complete overhaul. Predator 212cc.
So hooking up a switch between the yellow wire and power could work? Should I put a fuse or something in between?
Essentially I use the starter button while lights are off, start the bike, then I can turn the light switch on after it's running for the front headlight?
Well sure, lay it on!
For the price, this would go on a keeper. Took awhile to get too. Maybe somewhat COVID related but Europe on top of that. This would definitely not go on a fix up and flip bike. I know, I know the cheap Chinese flea bay parts. I still have a bike with a banshee swap and original Pamco that fires up first kick. If memory serves, a lot cheaper. Then again I don’t ride this one often. Hand full of times a year. Just reflecting on my recent “put together”. My mental calculator. Damn it! Another one I’ll have to keep. Haha It is a pain to pull the rotor for timing. Pamco & Boyer not so bad. Pros and cons of everything. Again thanks for the step by step thread.
Bjorn
XS650 Addict
Is anyone running this with a digital tacho? They state it might not work. I just installed a Daytona velona speedo/tacho and I want to keep using that.
Bjorn
XS650 Addict
Decided I'm going the Vape route to. I'll add my findings to this topic to keep it going
I installed a Vape on the Rd350 and so far great. I bought it from HVC cycle and they had an option to cut a keyway for a keyed shaft which made for an easy installation.
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