Intermittent Dead Cylinder...Switching Sides

[freddy3]

I had similar issues of a dead cylinder that moved from side to side. I am running a Pamco and hunted down electrical gremlins but found none. Turned out to be the tune of my PWK carbs.

Carbs (that've been rebuilt 9 times(!) as per recommendations in previous two threads) again.....Ugh..

 

[freddy3]

This is difficult
A listing of what has been performed and replaced would help
Points ? Coils ? Plugs and so on Intake Boots etc etc
Given what I hear that the carburetor is serviced
That the charging is there

I feel it to be the ignition
I believe mr ArticXS are at the right things post # 87
And GLJ in # 92
Installing one Voltmeter temporarily at the Point where the lead to coils split is not that difficult
at least not on my 80
A uploaded video would help perhaps getting a feel how it runs and starts

Again, I greatly appreciate your willingness to help, but I can't count the number of times over the past two years that I've listed and re-listed what's been done (starting with 9(!) carb rebuilds....all to no avail) over the past two years. Sorry, but I'm going around in circles for the fourth time, so I think I need a break...I'll regroup and report back as soon as I have another angle to pursue. My guts still says it's the ignition switch (where the key goes). Thanks, ALL.

 

[nj1639]

I start getting apprehensive if my idle drops below 1200......12 is as low as I go.
Other opinions may vary.

 

[Jan_P]

Yes Sir take your time
That is fully possible

My guts still says it's the ignition switch (where the key goes).

Food for thoughts
http://www.xs650.com/threads/72xs2-73tx-wiring-diagram.53244/

Into the Main Switch goes a red wire that comes from battery and fuse
When the key is turned the red is connected to the brown that is connected
to the upside of the kill switch ...

So if there is 12 V at the downside R as in Red ( Electrical downside it is up in the picture ) after the fuse 12 o clock above text fuse

If you draw a wire from 12 o clock on the picture it is after the fuse the fuse is still operating
if a short it (fuse ) breaks
If you pull that extra wire to the upside of the kill switch 12 o clock on the picture the kill switch has 12 V
And the kill switch is operating as well as the fuse.
Then the ignition key is bypassed and if the kill switch is working
You then know if the key switch was the problem .

Others can come in I am thinking ignition switch on
And not leaving the extra wire there after testing .Because in some cases ignition parts don't stand having power on
Which it will be when bypassing the Key switch according to this.
Putting in a smaller fuse in the first test

 

[GLJ]

Not sure if this was meant in fun, but it's not gonna happen. Beside the fact that the bike's generally not rideable, even when it is, if I'm carrying two VOMs, where's my drinks cabinet supposed to go?

Was not meant in jest. Get 2 small cheap voltmeters from Amazon and temp them on the bike. Only way you are going to get to the bottom of this to get some real time data. Until you can isolate the problem you will just be shooting in the dark. Whatever your problem is it is very abnormal.