Is it my turn? Anything to do with lathes, mills and other shop tools

kopcicle

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Been a while since I've had something to say/show about the Benchmaster...
 

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kopcicle

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Paul , I'm not going to spare the appropriate thanks.
This is to the rest of the world my brother in law.
There is a longish story here but the moment I'll remember was Keith introducing me as his brother.
I had already deleted the -in law in my mind but to hear it...

Then as I'm typing this Keith sends

"The struggle to not tear it down completely is real"

:thumbsup:
 

Paul Sutton

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kopcicle, I was just thinking of all your freshly prepared metal surfaces. I saw a product called Camellia Oil advertised several months back. It is sprayed onto metal to prevent surface rust forming. It originates in Japan and is supposed to be the Bee's Knees. I guess you already have your own favorate. I have seen Lanolin mentioned several times on this forum also. I keep meaning to try Lanolin dissolved in a thin mineral oil or perhaps diesel or white spirits. This would make it easy to spray apply.

It's getting late now and I'm hoping for spectacular thunderstorms tonight. The ones last night did not eventuate, I hope the lastest batch make it...:geek:
 
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kopcicle

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So remember this?
https://www.xs650.com/threads/is-it...nd-other-shop-tools.50953/page-55#post-737783

The bearings are actual made in Germany P6 class bearings. They occupy the same dimensions as the 6205 original Ball Bearings but are 40 degree angular contact bearings. Better to accept axial loads. Not cheap but I didn't need a mortgage to afford them , $40each.

The MT2 stub is oil hardening tool steel in annealed state. Somewhat like making my own tool holders I'll evaluate the machineability and hardening/tempering before ordering up a handful.
Some possibilities
Mini adjustable boring head
Mini fixed boring head
Adjustable reamers
Milling stub/arbor/adapters
Short spindle alignment tool
Sacrificial adapter for lathe or mill
For $10 I can't go too wrong. It has 10mm drawbar threads as well as evidence of being turned/ground on centers prior to the threads being cut. It's possible that the exaggerated chamfer leading into the threads is a remnant of the original center, wouldn't that be a bonus.

and so it goes...
 

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Paul Sutton

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Next little job. The Virago is close to failing its MOT inspection due to excessive runout/warp in a disk rotor. I sorted this temporarily by shiming the rotor. Measurements using a dial indicator show that the rightside of the front wheel has had the mounting area for the rotor machined out of alignment with the left side by about 0.3mm - naughty Yamaha. My lathe is too small to fit the wheel in so decide to fit the lathe around the wheel while having a bit of fun on the milling machine. The tool post and top slide were securely fitted to a brass support which is secured using the axle pinch bolt. The momentum of the wheel provided for very smooth cutting:
Wheel.JPG
(Click image to expand)
Dial indicator shows the wheel is now true to within 0.001". I hope this is the end this little annoyance.
 

kopcicle

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So, a funny thing happened on the way to a "non rebuild" .
Has anyone researched DRO for something like the Benchmaster?
Precision Matthews, Grizzly, Jet, and the largely unpronounceables have approximately the same work areas available. Something has to be out there for my mill.
Full disclosure. I have used DRO for years in various job descriptions. Before that I worked from dials. I'm an appliance user.
A little help here, please .
 

kopcicle

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Next little job. The Virago is close to failing its MOT inspection due to excessive runout/warp in a disk rotor. I sorted this temporarily by shiming the rotor. Measurements using a dial indicator show that the rightside of the front wheel has had the mounting area for the rotor machined out of alignment with the left side by about 0.3mm - naughty Yamaha. My lathe is too small to fit the wheel in so decide to fit the lathe around the wheel while having a bit of fun on the milling machine. The tool post and top slide were securely fitted to a brass support which is secured using the axle pinch bolt. The momentum of the wheel provided for very smooth cutting:
View attachment 216282
(Click image to expand)
Dial indicator shows the wheel is now true to within 0.001". I hope this is the end this little annoyance.
Paul, did much the same thing by mounting a 1/4" end mill in a die grinder and clamping it to the swing arm when I had to do some hub work.
 

kopcicle

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So, do any of you degenerates own an "M" head Bridgeport?

http://www.dkpercussion.com/blog/un...m-head-rebuild-for-the-benchmaster-mill-pt-2/

And the Author reports...

""
NSK 7205 CTYNSUL P4 ABEC7 ($100 on eBay for a matched pair)


Upper spindle bearings:
Nachi 6205 C3


Pulley spindle bearings:
SKF 6206 C3


Why all the different brands? No reason other than price and quality, all purchased on eBay, all US or Japanese made. The matched pair are the only ones that need to be truly precise, where as the others can be electric motor quality or better.""

Note that the author's purpose here was a Bench-Port/Bridge-Master. He is crossing a Benchmaster mill with a Bridgeport "M" head.

BridgePort.jpg

The photo is quite large. On one hand going through all that trouble for 3 1/2" on quill travel seems a bit silly. On the other hand the "M" head is better thought out and has somewhat better support of the quill/spindle. On the gripping hand the "M" head does have a 12K RPM option although a bit rare.
It was a good read if just for the thought process and problem solving.
 

kopcicle

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I got the mill trammed in. (not much to do it was very close) and made the usual minor adjustments. I started it up and there were a few odd noises and ...

Just how warm are these bearings supposed to get? Just a few minutes and I couldn't leave my hand on the top of the spindle. I'm getting some heat off the bottom bearing but the top bearing gets positively hot.

I'm no stranger to proper bearing preload. Am I missing something here? Is there a one lube to rule them all?
I had dial indicators on the top and bottom of the spindle. I counted down from .002" , .001" , .000-something then barely 15 degrees on the preload collar. Heat, and lots of it.

These are very common automotive bearings.

Timken 09074 Tapered Roller Bearing
Timken 09194 Race

Timken 15118 Tapered Roller Bearing
Timken 15250 Race

Standard stuff from your local auto supply store.

Any bright ideas ?
 

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Jim

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I got the mill trammed in. (not much to do it was very close) and made the usual minor adjustments. I started it up and there were a few odd noises and ...

Just how warm are these bearings supposed to get? Just a few minutes and I couldn't leave my hand on the top of the spindle. I'm getting some heat off the bottom bearing but the top bearing gets positively hot.

I'm no stranger to proper bearing preload. Am I missing something here? Is there a one lube to rule them all?
I had dial indicators on the top and bottom of the spindle. I counted down from .002" , .001" , .000-something then barely 15 degrees on the preload collar. Heat, and lots of it.

These are very common automotive bearings.

Timken 09074 Tapered Roller Bearing
Timken 09194 Race

Timken 15118 Tapered Roller Bearing
Timken 15250 Race

Standard stuff from your local auto supply store.

Any bright ideas ?
Other than too much preload... I got nuttin. :shrug:
 

kopcicle

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@Jim
I have the same question posted in the right places , not that this isn't the right place.
I really don't think it's a preload issue. I've been squeezing bearings for decades. I just don't think I missed. Brother Keith and I will have time to verify later this week .
 

gggGary

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Well back off the preload, what happens?
One not seated correctly?
When I redid the Millrite I had to back off the preload to run at the higher RPM the VFD provided.
 
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