Is it my turn? Anything to do with lathes, mills and other shop tools

gggGary

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It does get deep fast....
KS is capacitor start
since it doesn't state rotation it may be reversible?
I'll assume nothing on the back of the compartment plate.
Generic; you need to reverse the start winding, if those connections are in the compartment it's easy, if not......
If you have em swap terminal 5 and 8
From here:
https://wiringdiagram.2bitboer.com/emerson-electric-motor-wiring-diagram/
might want to read through that page.

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kopcicle

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Okay , it runs. but wait there's more.
@gggGary , thanks for part of the solution.
The belt is crap or has a couple of flat spots on it. Back off the tension so far you can't put a tool into aluminum and it runs fine. give it any tension at all and it's a bucking bronco.

Interlude for some good news. The time I spent on the gears paid off. There was so much crud in the root that there was no way to get close to a mesh. Razor blade, caustic chemicals, miniature files, multiple teeth breech, wash, rinse, repeat.
The gear train is nearly silent.

More good news. No detectable axial or radial slop, none, and very little heating.

Okay back to the flying monkeys with hammers.
The spindle may have near zero detectable run out between the bearing surfaces but the register for the chuck is messed up. Not only that the 2MT taper in the spindle is corroded.
A super sharp piece of 5% cobalt HSS reestablished the face but there is little that can be done for the 1.375 outer diameter. Neither of the chucks I have make use of the specified 1.000" dia register so I have to make do with the face . I'll include the pdf.

It appears I have a ways to go before I have a tool I can use. For those of you that might suggest...
No, I could turn between centers right now if I took the taper out but that gets old real fast.

I'll suss out the damaged 2MT in the spindle bore this weekend. The reamers are on the way.
Then I have to decide which center to go with, the register (and which chuck, 4 jaw , duh) or the spindle ID .

it's 11:45 pip emma out here on the left coast. I've done enough damage for one day.

Now where was the flying monkey repellent ?
death-mob-wizard-of-oz.gif
 

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Paul Sutton

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I know for a fact that water works on witches, but not sure about flying monkeys...:hump:

Good to see progress is being made. I recently put a reamer in my lathe's MT1 tailstock and could not believe how much crap came out.
 

kopcicle

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I did get the little bastich to run but happily enough I forgot about reversing it the moment I saw Windings_02.jpeg. The wire is cut, not burned or ripped or torn, cut. It has no mating wire in the vicinity.
Thanks again @gggGary , it got me started on the right path.
 

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kopcicle

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The reamer set I received from the AmaZombies. looks good.
I tied the roughing an finish back to back with each other and , parallel.
I did the same with a known good 2MT taper and, parallel.

So far so good.

Now to dial the face register and the 2MT taper and record the run out. The face should be zero after a skim of the face. The 2MT taper will have to be cleaned up prior to indicating.

Then the options.

Move the 2MT taper. This is actually the easiest as the reamers both have a rear center.
Simply offset a center held in the tool holder or offset the tail stock the amount of radial run out , lock the spindle and advance the reamer.

Move the face. This sucks as anything done to the face other than perfectly perpendicular to the axis is just brain dead and would work only with that specific accessory.

Face to face chucks. Where you install a chuck on the spindle and true a shaft to it no mater what else is going on.
Place the other chuck on the shaft with its jaws facing the installed chuck.
Reproduce its angular misalignment on the shaft and verify by indicating on it's register.
if the misalignment between the OD of the chuck, the registration face and to a lesser degree, the "natural" center in the case of the scroll chuck agree, The spindle is bent.
If the register does not agree with the OD or the "natural" center in a scroll chuck but the "natural" center do agree then straighten the register. (what a bunch of words)

The four jaw is easier once the three jaw is close. Get the run out and angular distortion out of the shaft. resort to the cigarette paper trick for out of round, tap to center for the live end.
Install the 4 jaw on the shaft exposing the register. True up the OD for run out. indicate the register. True up the register if necessary.

Wash , rinse , repeat, until this becomes a repeatable operation. If it doesn't , run around in circles (isn't that what we've been doing?) screaming "Murphy!!! WHHHHHHY Me !!!!"

Then it's back to the internal taper and making it agree to the total indicated run out ( hopefully near nil at this point)
If not then it's easy enough to move the taper a "few" thousands.

and so it goes
 

kopcicle

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About time for another update.
3jaw_clean.jpeg


Once I counter bored a register in the chuck 🤦‍♂️
The rest was easy, The damage was beyond abrasives and a careful dial in of the register allowed for a .002" skim cut on the diameter and face.

Avery brief vid of the machine reveals the work on the gear train was well worth it. Just imagine inspection of every tooth and root of every gear in inventory. Imagine "blueprinting" of every spacer, bushing and keyed spacer. Imagine spending hours sorting out a banjo bracket that had been attacked by the flying monkeys with hammers. Then it was the lead screw alignment including centering on new half nuts to the point where there was full engagement without deflecting the lead screw and full disengagement.

It was worth the effort.
 

toglhot

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The lathe switch gear on my lathe pooped itself a while back, just fell apart. The rotary switches are rubbish, very hard to understand the wiring as they do more than just reverse the motor.
I couldn't find a sparky who knew how to rewire a lathe motor and switchgear without a diagram. so, armed with a multimeter, DPDT toggle and a cheap on off switch I did it myself. The caps box had disintegrated some some before which received a quick fix with some PVC downpipe, this time around I decided to fix that as well. I bought a jiffy box for the two caps and fashioned a plate on which to fit it and bolted it to the motor. Next I bought a simple on off, non latching switch. and a simple two way toggle for reversing the motor and fashioned a plate to hold them. Having a non latching switch meant I had to disable the chuck guard switch which was a PITA anyway. Wiring took a bit of working out, spent quite a bit of time isolating start and run windings then figuring out how to reverse the motor, but, all worked out in the end everything has been working great since I rewired it and mounted the caps, switch and reversing switch.
So much for today's electricians, can't fix anything without a manufacturers diagram to show them how to do it, the mind boggles with today's tradesmen.



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Signal

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I made an adapter to fit a cheap electric die grinder to the tool post of my lathe, I am hoping to experiment with different back cuts on exhaust valves.
Also I needed to enlarge the pockets in a couple of pistons to get adequate clearance so ended up with this overly complicated arrangement thank fully it did the job.
 

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RC4MAN

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I remember there was a company that was offering a piston vise, actually a fixture that could be held in a regular milling vise, adjustable for different angles and orientations for doing valve pockets and other mods. Been many years ago
 

toglhot

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An optical centre punch I made years ago. These are available commercially, but can be hard to see depending on finish and colour of base material, so I made one up and added an LED powered by a button battery. There's also a five volt charger I put together that'll feed the LED via a resistor.
 

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toglhot

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Here's my tool post grinder I made a few years back: I bought a cheap $30 Ozito rotary tool and made the fitting for it.. The fitting bolts in the toolpost and is adjustable for height and thus angle of grind. I use it mostly for sharpening end mills. Some use these type tools for grinding chuck jaws, although I don't recommend using it for that unless the jaws are badly spread, every grind you make on the Jaws increases the size of the smallest piece of stock you can clamp in the Jaws. Besides that, self centering three jaws never clamp the material with the same concentricity.
 

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