Its actually round tube pieces welded together.
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Is it my turn? Anything to do with lathes, mills and other shop tools
Too right Downeaster, nice spray can organizer... 
Talked to the welder at work today, apparently when the diaphragm in flow meters get weak they can blow out. So it happens to all of them eventually.
Bottle jacks, hydraulic presses... the cheap ones use a screw valve with a pin through it and the pump handle has notches to turn it to relieve pressure. Never much cared for that setup, so....
This will be a press fit. Decided to hedge my bets and added a 4mm hole for a grub screw. You know, just in case...
Didn't get a shot of it pressed fully in. It's pressed until the holes line up. I say pressed... hard to do with the hyd press in pieces.
Used a combination of the bench vise, wood blocks and a BFH... works.
Here 'tis, in all it's glory. Works a treat
And since we've had a few new machinist's come on board recently, I'll throw out there that I'm not.
A machinist that is. Self taught (and I'm a shitty teacher) using an Atlas Lathe that's older'n me. Mind you don't hurt poor ol' Atlas' feeling, eh?
This will be a press fit. Decided to hedge my bets and added a 4mm hole for a grub screw. You know, just in case...
Didn't get a shot of it pressed fully in. It's pressed until the holes line up. I say pressed... hard to do with the hyd press in pieces.
Used a combination of the bench vise, wood blocks and a BFH... works.
Here 'tis, in all it's glory. Works a treat
And since we've had a few new machinist's come on board recently, I'll throw out there that I'm not.
A machinist that is. Self taught (and I'm a shitty teacher) using an Atlas Lathe that's older'n me. Mind you don't hurt poor ol' Atlas' feeling, eh?
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always nice to add a personal touch to machines!
I dont know about your experience with brazed on carbide tooling (the red one) but i dont find them ideal on small non rigid machines.
I dont know about your experience with brazed on carbide tooling (the red one) but i dont find them ideal on small non rigid machines.
Snuck another pic of Jim working with the atlas.
It ain't much but the push rod tubes for the R50 were "wil(not)fit"
They were advertised as needing fettling for different airhead models. Diameter is spot on.
E-gad's I'm slow getting stuff done!
It ain't much but the push rod tubes for the R50 were "wil(not)fit"
They were advertised as needing fettling for different airhead models. Diameter is spot on.
E-gad's I'm slow getting stuff done!
No they're not. It chatters way too much turning metal down.
About all it's good for is facing off the ends.
That it does a fairly good job of.
I found with brazed carbide you have to grind them just like a HSS blank. Small low powered machines do better with sharp tooling, it's why insert tooling is hit or miss on them. Out of the box brazed tooling kinda sucks. With a proper grind it works well, it also helps to buy better quality with the right grade of carbide for the job. But for my 10" atlas for heavy cuts I do get better results with the right grind on HSS blanks.
For aluminum I always try for HSS. Carbide (unless specifically made for aluminum and has a high polish and a razor sharp edge) has a micro radius on the edge. It works essentially by pushing the material off the workpiece.
Take a carbide endmill and drag it across the palm of your hand as hard as you can. No problem.
Try that with a HSS endmill and let us know how many stitches you need.
Point is, carbide is best for harder materials like steel, whereas HSS is best fir softer materials like plastic and aluminum.
Take a carbide endmill and drag it across the palm of your hand as hard as you can. No problem.
Try that with a HSS endmill and let us know how many stitches you need.
Point is, carbide is best for harder materials like steel, whereas HSS is best fir softer materials like plastic and aluminum.
and for stainless?
asking for a friend. Doing this with sintered carbide but it's mainly a power through, pretty blue chips thing.
Stainless sucks. Use carbide. Run your spindle slow so as not to overheat the cutting tool and ruin the edge. Use plenty of cutting oil.
I generally run carbide drills at about 100 SFM, carbide endmills around 230 SFM in stainless. But that's also in a CNC machine with flood coolant on the endmills and thru spindle coolant thru the drill too.
304 is harder to work with than 303.
Don't do much stainless in the manual lathe, mainly because of the slow spindle speed.
I generally run carbide drills at about 100 SFM, carbide endmills around 230 SFM in stainless. But that's also in a CNC machine with flood coolant on the endmills and thru spindle coolant thru the drill too.
304 is harder to work with than 303.
Don't do much stainless in the manual lathe, mainly because of the slow spindle speed.
Dont know what your hands look like after draggin all those carbide endmills acorss them 
But uncoated Carbide endmills are unbelievable sharp...
I use some HSS for that special occasion or weird job. But ive came to like the afforable lathe insert tooling from China. It might not be an Iscar/Tungaloy or Sandvik quality. But for the price and home use I find them hard to beat. For alu I buy the uncoated and polished inserts with a high positive cutting angle.
But uncoated Carbide endmills are unbelievable sharp...I use some HSS for that special occasion or weird job. But ive came to like the afforable lathe insert tooling from China. It might not be an Iscar/Tungaloy or Sandvik quality. But for the price and home use I find them hard to beat. For alu I buy the uncoated and polished inserts with a high positive cutting angle.
I'm with Bjorn, the carbide endmills we have at work will slice you open if you look at them funny. If they are tight going into the holder or coming out you better wear a glove, or you'll need a bandage. The ones for plastic are probably the worst.
Now lathe inserts are kinda dull, atleast outside of specialty ones. We have some for plastic and aluminum that'll slice you coming out of the package. The standard SNMG, WNMG, DNMG and others aren't sharp to the touch. But with enough power they'll take some pretty good cuts. 1/4" depth of cut .015" per rev feed around 1000rpm in 304, and easily double the rpm on aluminum. A 3" waukusha drill can do a 6" deep blind hole in 304 in about 90 seconds.
Yeah that scenario about removing end mills from holders without gloves feels familiar in my fingers
....
Ive learned my leasson haha
....Ive learned my leasson haha
I dont know the alloy of stainless. But I would defenitly use carbine insert tooling if you have some. Could be a general insert if you dont have any for stainless. Blue chips might be a sign of to high of a cutting speed/feed. I would aim for chips turing gold in the pan. Maybe try lower cutting speeds (RPM) and higher feed to break the chip.
Im not a fan of 304 stainless, its hard to break a chip and you could end up with long stringy chips, especially on lower powered machines.
One of the new machine at work. 28,000lbs. Waiting on the factory setup guy now.
Cool, what are you guys making? Like What kind of business
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