Paul, did much the same thing by mounting a 1/4" end mill in a die grinder and clamping it to the swing arm when I had to do some hub work.Next little job. The Virago is close to failing its MOT inspection due to excessive runout/warp in a disk rotor. I sorted this temporarily by shiming the rotor. Measurements using a dial indicator show that the rightside of the front wheel has had the mounting area for the rotor machined out of alignment with the left side by about 0.3mm - naughty Yamaha. My lathe is too small to fit the wheel in so decide to fit the lathe around the wheel while having a bit of fun on the milling machine. The tool post and top slide were securely fitted to a brass support which is secured using the axle pinch bolt. The momentum of the wheel provided for very smooth cutting:
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Dial indicator shows the wheel is now true to within 0.001". I hope this is the end this little annoyance.
Other than too much preload... I got nuttin.I got the mill trammed in. (not much to do it was very close) and made the usual minor adjustments. I started it up and there were a few odd noises and ...
Just how warm are these bearings supposed to get? Just a few minutes and I couldn't leave my hand on the top of the spindle. I'm getting some heat off the bottom bearing but the top bearing gets positively hot.
I'm no stranger to proper bearing preload. Am I missing something here? Is there a one lube to rule them all?
I had dial indicators on the top and bottom of the spindle. I counted down from .002" , .001" , .000-something then barely 15 degrees on the preload collar. Heat, and lots of it.
These are very common automotive bearings.
Timken 09074 Tapered Roller Bearing
Timken 09194 Race
Timken 15118 Tapered Roller Bearing
Timken 15250 Race
Standard stuff from your local auto supply store.
Any bright ideas ?