It's past time to start XS2 Resurrection

Wondering, like your Avatar says, was that comment alcohol induced or was it made while sober? :popcorn:

Scott
Stone cold sober. I was referring to his username.
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I have never seen that word before so I googled it. Was surprised at what came back. I see that he is from Australia and was wondering what it might mean. I now see the error of my way.

GW
My apologies if what I posted offended you in any way. I meant no harm or insult.
Greg
 

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Small update. I think I achieved one of my goals. I was hoping to get the rims into 10 foot territory. I would have probably settled for 10 MPH. I think they are almost 5 footers. I'm sure a trained eye will see problems with them.
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Warming up the Evapo-Rust does help. All I did was de-grease stuff before putting it in.
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Small update. I think I achieved one of my goals. I was hoping to get the rims into 10 foot territory. I would have probably settled for 10 MPH. I think they are almost 5 footers. I'm sure a trained eye will see problems with them.
View attachment 129704 View attachment 129706
Warming up the Evapo-Rust does help. All I did was de-grease stuff before putting it in.
View attachment 129707 View attachment 129708

Man! Considering what you started with, I think those came out great! Don’t forget to apply a coat of wax to the rims to help prevent rust from coming back. Good job! :thumbsup:
 
Man! Considering what you started with, I think those came out great! Don’t forget to apply a coat of wax to the rims to help prevent rust from coming back. Good job! :thumbsup:
That is with them waxed. I used Nu Finish. Do you think there is something better to put on them?
 
better than wax...... I buy it by the 5 liter container......The States seems to be the only place that doesn't have a distributor......
https://www.lanotec.com.au/product/general-purpose-liquid-lanolin/

This stuff is so good i had my Land-cruiser tray-back shipped to an outer island in the Torris Straits and it spent 3 days on an open barge getting there. Before it went on the barge i sprayed the whole ute with this laolin inside and out, under and over. When it arrived on the island it was a rough day and the salt spray was splashing over the front of the barge and all over the ute...........gave it a rise with fresh water without disturbing the lanolin.......8 months later the only rust that came through was on a peice of the rack that i must have missed............
 
Small update. I think I achieved one of my goals. I was hoping to get the rims into 10 foot territory. I would have probably settled for 10 MPH. I think they are almost 5 footers. I'm sure a trained eye will see problems with them.
View attachment 129704 View attachment 129706
Warming up the Evapo-Rust does help. All I did was de-grease stuff before putting it in.
View attachment 129707 View attachment 129708


G'day mate,

Those rims came out supremo.

Well done.

GW
 
Laced up the front wheel. First time lacing for me. Searched for and read a couple of threads on lacing here. They helped a lot. Great forum. Anybody see anything wrong with the wheel lacing?
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Made sure I had the inner and outers in their old holes.
Any words of wisdom on truing? I did a quick search here and didn't find a step by step guide. My truing "stand " right now is a bit crude to say the least. I plan on making a better one in the future.
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Could not bring myself to clamp the axle in the vise. Used the old wheel bearings. And yes I have to be careful when I spin it or the bearing will pivot.
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Thanks
Greg
 
Looks good to me, good for you for doing it yourself and you learned something new in the process!

There is a good discussion on truing here. Max Pete wrote some good stuff in there.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/question-about-wheel-truing.48192/

Wheel truing stands don’t have to be complicated, go down to post #598 here and you can see my el cheapo truing stand using a pencil as a fixed pointer. Forgive the wobbly video, I was wobbling, not the wheel.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/mailman’s-xs2-a-full-on-restoration.51520/page-30
 
I forgot one question. Where is the correct place to check for run-out?

I’m no expert, but I would check it right at the edge of the rim. Check it for both side to side movement and out of round. The out of round will look like the wheel has a little hop every time it goes around.
 
Find and mark the rim's welded seam, ignore wiggles there. Out of round check might be best on the chrome in near the spokes, over the years the edges get some dents that can be ignored. I tend to use a fresh magic marker for truing. do both sides, it speeds up centering which is important also. Gradually tighten all the spokes in rounds to an equal point, threads above the nipple or how close the end of the spoke is to the end of the nipple. I can hear the howls already but dial indicators for this work are silly. One of the Buchanon wheel truing videos echos that. I've put quite few miles on more than a couple wheels I've laced, no problems. About 500 miles on it doesn't hurt to do a round of spoke checking, snugging.
 
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If you didn't do it already, take the spoke nipples out one at a time and put some anti-seize on 'em.You're lookin' for even pressure as you tighten... anti-seize helps.
They got anti-seize on them as the wheel was assembled. Thanks tho.

Got it trued close enough for today. Need to get a better stand built. A buddy is getting me some surplus steel. Think I'm going to pick up a welder tomorrow. Looking at Hobart mig. F+F has 190 a amp machine on sale. That should do anything I need to do.

Struggling a bit figuring out how tight is tight for the spokes.
 
Last I looked... Youtube has tons of videos on truing. Can't recommend one over the other, but might be worth a look.

Yup! I forgot to mention that, I saw some very good explanations on YouTube. It’s really not all that hard, and in my book, it doesn’t have to be perfection, just as close as you can get it. You’re not racing that bike.
 
This was my wheel truing shop method.

Be sure that the outers are loose.

True using only the inners. Less spokes to fool with.

Inner-only adjustments give more movement, are more 'direct', make more sense, and are less 'black magic'.

Black magic: Normally, adjustments on the near side (where you have the runout gauges) have a direct influence on the rim position. Sometimes, however, the adjustment is done at the opposite side, while observing the rim at the near side. Sometimes done to accomodate wierd/damaged rims, or the meddlesome weld. Try to avoid this 'black art' area.

Get as close as you can with only the inners. Ensure even tightness when done with this stage.

Now start snugging the outers, a little at a time. Watch the runouts, and establish true by adjusting the outers only.

Approaching final snug on the outers, fine-tune the runouts.

Ensure that inners remain snugged. If not, snug carefully while maintaining true.

For tightness, I go by sound. Tap a spoke, listen to the *tink*.
A pitch of about 300hz is good.

 
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That is awesome 2M, never seen that method described before, can't wait to try it, makes PERFECT sense. 300hz, I'm gonna measure that with my tuner. You say "tapping", seems like plucking would be the same?

Scott
 
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