It's time to start a winter Project.

5twins

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Just one little note - you have those little aluminum parts on the bottoms of the damper rods on upside down. The tapered part should fit onto the damper rod and face up. Also, to add a little "bling", replace the Phillips fork drain screws with stainless Allens. The size is M4 x 8.

ForkDrainScrew.gif


ForkCastingRidge.jpg
 

Kevin Werner

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Just one little note - you have those little aluminum parts on the bottoms of the damper rods on upside down. The tapered part should fit onto the damper rod and face up. Also, to add a little "bling", replace the Phillips fork drain screws with stainless Allens. The size is M4 x 8.

View attachment 229694

View attachment 229695
Lifesaver as always. Thanks @5twins . Screws , on your previous recommendation were to be replaced. The reassembly with cones up or down would have come up as a question later. Now you can just embarrass me and comment see post 201. :) As a side note. I tried to order from McMaster last week. They have my email/name attached to my (5 years ago) employer. I was writing code 40 years ago but I don't know how to erase my name/address from their database to open a new customer acct. :)
 
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Kevin Werner

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Just one little note - you have those little aluminum parts on the bottoms of the damper rods on upside down. The tapered part should fit onto the damper rod and face up. Also, to add a little "bling", replace the Phillips fork drain screws with stainless Allens. The size is M4 x 8.

View attachment 229694

View attachment 229695

FWIW: metric stuff in small quantities and good service here
https://belmetric.com/

(not a knock on MC; they're fantastic);)

I didn't check all the leads to 8mm M4 cap screws but MC came out way more than my local Tru Value. $1.40 each. Better yet when I lose them both in the flotsam and jetsam of parts and supplies that I exist in, 12 minutes and $2.80 later I have replacements. My Tru Value is literally 29 streets away. I am on 38th, Tru Value is on 9th. It, incidently is the Tru Value I went to as a kid 55 years ago to grab hinges or woodruff keys or what ever for my ill concieved youthfull misadventures (built 2 boats that actually floated from generic hardware from that store).
 

Kevin Werner

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Too much clutter of pieces and parts happened. I am not good at organization or 5S or whatever. So, I cleared a spot and gathered up some pieces and parts. @desmoman900 told me it would all line up and make sense. He was right after the third try it all made sense and I was able to combine 74 parts into one unit. Not a job to do if you have deadlines or distraction. My old dial indicator mount sat too long in the bottom of the tool cabinet and need some clean up. Now to trying my hand at finding "true".1668888495453566899129419860793.jpg
 

5twins

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As I mentioned in the recent "Truing Stand" thread, you'll need to rig up a way to keep the "axle" from sliding side to side on the bearings or you'll just be chasing your tail.
 

Kevin Werner

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As I mentioned in the recent "Truing Stand" thread, you'll need to rig up a way to keep the "axle" from sliding side to side on the bearings or you'll just be chasing your tail.
Thank you. This HF stand has bearing cones and I was able to secure the unit solidly in 1 lateral position against upright. The HF has little roller bearings that the axle can roll on. This seemed crude as the shaft is not a machined or high quality bar stock. I secured the axle shaft cone against the upright so that the hub was rolling on the wheel bearings. Dial indicator gives me L/R .006-.008 except at the weld and .008-.012 up and down except at the weld. I will leave it sit and revisit another time. Irritating enough, trying to get an up and down reading, the dial indicator marred the inner face of the rim. I should have seen that coming, but is didn't mar the horizontal face. Maybe the angle I was able to present the tip to the surface. Any way, I will try Mother's or a buffing wheel.
 

Kevin Werner

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Next step, after getting spokes, hub and rim out from underfoot is fork assembly. I did the Minton Mods on my damper rods but need to do a good clean up. I will search my gun cleaning bore brushes to make sure I am not leaving shavings behind.
 

Wingedwheel

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You’ll find that it will take a minute to get the hang of working the spokes but don’t let it irritate you. Just use a piece of blue tape to mark the sections that need to be pulled or pushed to true. And that will keep you in-line with the opposite side. After a few tries you’ll find everything kinda works out. You can also use that stand to static balance those wheels with the tires on. I personally like checking true with the tires mounted but everyone has their own technique.
 

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Thank you. This HF stand has bearing cones and I was able to secure the unit solidly in 1 lateral position against upright. The HF has little roller bearings that the axle can roll on. This seemed crude as the shaft is not a machined or high quality bar stock. I secured the axle shaft cone against the upright so that the hub was rolling on the wheel bearings. Dial indicator gives me L/R .006-.008 except at the weld and .008-.012 up and down except at the weld. I will leave it sit and revisit another time. Irritating enough, trying to get an up and down reading, the dial indicator marred the inner face of the rim. I should have seen that coming, but is didn't mar the horizontal face. Maybe the angle I was able to present the tip to the surface. Any way, I will try Mother's or a buffing wheel.
Good work. Your tyre will be less good, and we don't notice that, so don't sweat it.
 

5twins

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Your run-out (up and down) and true (side to side) are very good. I think the factory spec is 2mm (about .079") max so you're much better than that. If the rim is new, they're usually pretty straight and easy to true up.

Yes, I saw that you butted the right cone against the bearing bolts, but what's stopping the axle from moving left?
 

Kevin Werner

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Your run-out (up and down) and true (side to side) are very good. I think the factory spec is 2mm (about .079") max so you're much better than that. If the rim is new, they're usually pretty straight and easy to true up.

Yes, I saw that you butted the right cone against the bearing bolts, but what's stopping the axle from moving left?
Cones that set into the wheel bearingss have set screws. I push the cone into the bearing and secure with the set screw. Then, I prevent the "truing stand" axle from moving and the hub rides on the wheel bearing with no lateral movement. The apparatus instructions are lacking but the basic hardware seems adequate.
 

5twins

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How do you prevent the axle from moving? I don't see anything stopping it from shifting to the left.
 

Kevin Werner

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How do you prevent the axle from moving? I don't see anything stopping it from shifting to the left.
I hold the axel (truing stand) with my hand, pressing to the right a little, against the right upright. I assembled the truing stand with the uprights in the inner (narrower) mounting holes. When the "truing stand axel" is stationary the hub bearings take over smoothly (snugged between the cones) and there is no movement. Let me try to explain. The HF stand rests thier own axle on two ends. This axle lays between a pair of skate board bearings. The axle (poorish quality) is supposed to roll on the skate board bearings. Setting the hub cones way to the right and holding the axle firm against that right upright cause the hub to rotate around the wheel bearings, This HF truing stand is NOT the cat's meow if you don't understand the possible short comings. It is a quick cheap platform for a few tasks. I have never laced wheel. This made it easier after the inners were laced up. All my wheel truing was bicycles, in a bike shop, 50 years ago.
1668912029197.png
 
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Kevin Werner

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I assembled the fork internals and set them aside. Then I looked at them more carefully, a fatal mistake. I realized that I had spent no time in a final "Mother's " polish/wipedown.wiped own. The right looks so much better with only 1 minute of attention.
16691816649202915237910067045144.jpg
 

Kevin Werner

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My clutch pushrod bushing is pretty firmly stuck in the case. The tap extraction method does not seem to be working. Can I push it out from the otherside? I will have that cover off soon and hope I have access when I remove the clutch plates.
 

Jim

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My clutch pushrod bushing is pretty firmly stuck in the case. The tap extraction method does not seem to be working. Can I push it out from the otherside? I will have that cover off soon and hope I have access when I remove the clutch plates.
Well, it's not stuck in the case, it's pressed into the tranny countershaft... so you'd be driving it all the way through the shaft. The end of the shaft where the bushing is was machined to accept the bush. I doubt Yamaha did the machining all the way through the shaft... cost cutting and all that. I think you'd run the risk of damaging the bearing on the clutch side of the shaft if you wailed on the bushing all the way through it. Have you tried 5twins method of collapsing the bushing?

EDIT: never mind, just reread what you asked. Yeah, never tried it but I think it's possible to drive it out from the clutch side. Should be fairly easy actually.
 

jetmechmarty

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I extracted mine with a center punch. You can’t get it from the back side. It’s seated against a lip. Mine folded right up when I hit it. Removal with needle nose pliers was effortless. This was a shaft on the workbench scenario.

A few years ago on the motorcycle, I tapped threads into the bushing, then screwed a carriage bolt into it. Pulling the carriage bolt extracted the bushing.
 

5twins

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The bushing is a split type. Locate the split and drive a small screwdriver or awl in next to it, between the bushing and the wall of the bored hole it's in. This will collapse the bushing into itself, releasing it's tension and grip in the shaft. Then it's easily plucked out with some needle nose pliers. The sharp pointed "pilot" end on a wood paddle or spade drill bit also works well.

WoodSpadeBits.jpg
 
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