It's time to start a winter Project. The Red Bike

New screen arrived.seems it has a more robust construction with a perforated backing mesh to resist/prevent(?) tearout.
16612173438433855253191200505805.jpg
16612173793162709084938828306590.jpg
 
which supplier did this come from? it does look a lot stronger.
Yamahaxs650.com I forget the tech description but I considered buying Devcon, screwing around to repair, getting the shit in my hair and on my weiner and decided $24.95 was a fair gamble. I won't look at it again unless the motor blows up, until August, 2023, so only time will tell.
 
Take a close look at it. That perforated sheet metal backing doesn't extend out around the point that always tears (the point on the right in your 2nd pic). So, this replacement rips just like originals. They reinforced everywhere except the spot that needs it most, lol.
 
Take a close look at it. That perforated sheet metal backing doesn't extend out around the point that always tears (the point on the right in your 2nd pic). So, this replacement rips just like originals. They reinforced everywhere except the spot that needs it most, lol.
On this item the perforated sheet metal extends around the entire perimeter behind the screen. I was pleasantly surprised given the guarded reputation these pieces have previously earned.
 
No, I don't think so. Take a close look at this area here .....

OilFilterReinforcing.jpg


There is a tube around the mounting bolt hole to support it but the perforated sheet runs behind it usually, unless they've "upgraded" the design.
 
I've been using that same filter for several years and have had no problems.
 
No, I don't think so. Take a close look at this area here .....

View attachment 222759

There is a tube around the mounting bolt hole to support it but the perforated sheet runs behind it usually, unless they've "upgraded" the design.
Yes there is a snug fitting "saddle(?)" in the perforated sheet that returns very close to the tube at the perimeter. It seems the support tube is close to the mesh also. Have there been failures right there?
 
Yes, that is where they all tear, originals and aftermarket replacements. The oil intake on the sump plate is at that end so the pressure is greatest there. Just take it easy, keep the RPMs at about 4K or below, until the motor warms up a bit and the oil thins. Here's some originals and an aftermarket one I repaired. As you can see, they all rip in the same area. The magnet fell out of the aftermarket one as well, lol .....

Sump Filters.JPG
 
Well, I go pretty easy most of the time anyway, I need to go 4 miles before I get a 55 mph road and my pipes keep me pretty gentle in the urban 35mph and 45mph areas.
Sump is back together, I should have took a pic of the rear sump drain plug. It is in perfect original condition and I would guess that I am the first to remove it. POs probably wondered why the oil change alway took only 2 qts to refill.:)
Now up on the lift and see about polishing tje engine side covers. This one will be interesting.
16612802680577974460231835482612.jpg
 
It looks like you still have the original plug caps. I just replace them with NGKs. They're cheap and very good (basically the standard of the industry).
 
It looks like you still have the original plug caps. I just replace them with NGKs. They're cheap and very good (basically the standard of the industry).
Is this suitable? It says resistor in the literature. LB05F
https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/ngk-plug-cap-lb05f/0000000343247?msclkid=b815c1ece1d51fce1aa3a2e9635c36df&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bing - Shopping - Near Store - Vehicles & Parts&utm_term=4582146005377770&utm_content=Vehicles & Parts

I have a Honda MP08 coil but it did not come with plug wire screw caps/sleeves. I have not found a suitable "search" function to find them.
 
Last edited:
Is this suitable. It says resistor in the literature.
Yes. The "05" in the part number means it's a 5kΩ resistor cap. Remember, with the stock or Honda coil, you want the resistor caps or plugs... not both...
 
And yes, get the "F" type, the ones that fit on the threaded terminal stud. I think they grip better than the ones that go on the terminal nut .....

NGK LB05.jpg
 
Nothing sexy about an exhaust stud frozen to an acorn nut. I shot it with PBblaster and will try to remove in a day or so. The other 3 studs stayed in the head. I will wire brush them and smear some antieze on them.The HF jack seems to line up differently on tje Special compared to the 77D. I had it up and down a couple of times and the balance left me nervous. Still need to check valve lash,strip rocker covers and polu3sh them
16614007728897810691845930095460.jpg
 
Last edited:
"Red" is finally on the jack. She'll be there for a while. Fork mods, brake mods, swingarm bushings, case polishing, standard style side covers and seat if side covers fit, paint, bars and exhaust and 18" rear wheel with an alloy front rim to match. Some of you veterans would have that punch list done in a week. I am pushing for Ozarks '23.
1661468987509465297208113979934.jpg
 
Every step is old hat for most of you but I have never done much of this before. I have rebuilt from the crank up exactly 3 engines, only one of them a MC (2 stroke), the others auto engines. So this is new territory for me. This may be a 700 or 750 next year, 2024
 
Back
Top