It's time to start a winter Project. The Red Bike

A medium (maroon) Roloc disc will remove the casting flash and flaws .....

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Wiping down with lots of acetone (softens clear coat) then going at them with a dico wheel works for me.
some mineral spirits when using the dico wheel keeps dust down seems to improve speed of work.
Orange Dico for bad corrosion, blue for final step then a bit of blue magic will give a factory like brushed finish.
before after on the CB valve cover.
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First step, remove the bits. A little heat softens the stiff rubber to remove the dust cap. Note, getting the seal retain spring clip removed is an opportunity to push a screwdriver through your hand.
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Stupid is as stupid does
If you can't laugh at your mistakes it'll just make a guy miserable
May you never make another lol

I got the front hub flanges to a pretty decent polished state and decided the center would get paint. Warning- more dumb-assery ahead. So I got out the "Machinery Grey" (Who knows why I have a 3/4 full can) and shot the hub center. Fixated on the center I missed some overspray on the spoke flange. 1st dumb-assery move. Now, the paint is cured and I attack the overspray with, A buffing wheel to make really shiny machinery grey, B 400grit to leave too many scratches, and finally C steel wool. Notice two Dumb assery move there?
It gets better. The front engine mount always seems look, well, worn. This is a full fender build so it came off weeks ago and this week I cleaned it up, dusted it off and shot a coat of gloss black. I saw "fish eyes" immediately so Dumb-assery move waited 15 minutes and reshot the part. More fisheyes. Waited a day, sanded it down, wipe it down with acetone and re shot it. Better. I hope I have expended all the dumb-assery for the entire forum and you all can go on with projects and never make dumb mistakes. Pics soon. Still cleaning u0 the edges, then new polishing.View attachment 227950
 
Wiping down with lots of acetone (softens clear coat) then going at them with a dico wheel works for me.
some mineral spirits when using the dico wheel keeps dust down seems to improve speed of work.
Orange Dico for bad corrosion, blue for final step then a bit of blue magic will give a factory like brushed finish.
before after on the CB valve cover.
View attachment 227968
View attachment 227967
Thanks. The fender will be painted so I will try my hand at a bright finish on the sliders.
Stupid is as stupid does
If you can't laugh at your mistakes it'll just make a guy miserable
May you never make another lol
Thanks Mikey. We all share this foolishness. I will continue to try and remember to share my mistakes. Victories are built on losses and all that shit... Bullshit. I have learned learned a ton of information on this site and have followed much of it. But, I was illustrating what happens with short cuts for which I am GUILTY. Hopefully we all have a laugh at foolishness I display.
 
Hmm...this rotor came on the 80SG that I used for the tracker - works well👍 - I thought it was an EBC.:D
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You just saved me a the difference, Brembo $295, /yamahaxs650 $146 with shipping. Though I do still have feelers out to resurface and drill the original disc, I would be surprised if that machine work came in under $150.
 
You just saved me a the difference, Brembo $295, /yamahaxs650 $146 with shipping. Though I do still have feelers out to resurface and drill the original disc, I would be surprised if that machine work came in under $150.
Yeah, but you lose the panache of the "brand" :laugh2:
 
I drill my own stock ones and am quite happy with the results .....

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Obviously, this improves wet braking, but it improves regular dry braking a little too. I know because I started out with an undrilled disc. When I swapped the drilled one on, I could tell the difference. Not night and day mind you, but an improvement. I think it has to do with the pads off-gassing when applied. The holes give that gas somewhere to go rather than momentarily "hydroplaning" the pads. This eliminates that fraction of a second lag you get when applying the brake to a disc with no holes.

I run a thinner and lighter 5mm SR500 disc on my '78 and honestly, I don't notice much, if any, difference in braking or handling. The only thing I have noticed is the thinner disc heats up more and quicker, lol. So, I'm not sure spending $150 to $300 on a fancy, lighter disc is worth it. Little bang for the buck. Like I said, I'm happy with my drilled originals. They improve braking a little bit and look cool as well.
 
the later Yamaha rotors
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A mike's rotor with a homemade rotor spacer, I find "spacing in" the caliper, um repulsive.
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I used a slotted rotor from an XS1100 special on "some XS" but can't find a pic.
The rotors on the specials were thinner than the one's used on the standards.
This drilled stocker from the @grizld1 stash, yours for the shipping. $15ish?
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I chucked it in the lathe a moment ago and it looks true. I'll run a flap disk on it to clean up the swept area. Rust removal and fresh paint for the center section on you.
A bit of paint can visually lighten the front end and give it a different appearance.
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PM'd on the rotor.
the later Yamaha rotors
View attachment 228052
A mike's rotor with a homemade rotor spacer, I find "spacing in" the caliper, um repulsive.
View attachment 228053

I used a slotted rotor from an XS1100 special on "some XS" but can't find a pic.
The rotors on the specials were thinner than the one's used on the standards.
This drilled stocker from the @grizld1 stash, yours for the shipping. $15ish?
View attachment 228054
I chucked it in the lathe a moment ago and it looks true. I'll run a flap disk on it to clean up the swept area. Rust removal and fresh paint for the center section on you.
A bit of paint can visually lighten the front end and give it a different appearance.
View attachment 228055
 
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