It's time to start a winter Project. The Red Bike

Wheels came off today. There was no "unbalanced drama" with jack rocking this way or that. I have a very nice 18in rear and have a matching 19 ordered. Stringing a wheel will be another first. Soon the forks will come out for Minton mods. These steps all require planning from my feeble mind. Forks out, strip, polish, modify, reinstall after, tapered rollers, new headlight mount ears, figure signal light, verify brake work, tach elimination scheme, risers, bars, etc. Geese. Got some decent 78 side covers and I need some pics of mounts. I think the keepers/latches are well documented if I search a little. I want Standard sidecovers on this special.
 
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I took the wheels off "Red" with out any "unbalance on the jack" drama. I have a really nice 18inch for the rear and will lace up a new matching 19inch for the front. The forks will come out for Minton mods and tapered rollers. The lower legs will get stripped and polished. The tappet coves are now polished. I can set the valve lash when the left cover comes off for pushrod seal (dripping on the floor) and strip and polish the cover. Right side cover will be a bigger challenge.
 
I will be looking for pictures of 78 side cover mounts. I have a decent pair and like that look. Foot pegs and mounts need a rattle can restoration. When I cut various mounting tabs off the frame, it will get a "rustoleum restoration" too.
 
On the jack and doing preliminary disassembly. When I have forks, tank, fenders , etc. off I plan on scrubbing the frame with scotc pads and doing a rattle can black "rustoleum restoration". That will be months away. For now, the first practice piece will be the swing arm. Wonder of wonders (by golly Sgt Carter...) the swingarm pivot slid out with out cussing or pagan incantations.
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So... the clutch pushrod moves quite a bit. Up and down, left and right. I am guessing a bad bushing. Certainly the seal is toast.
 
Yes, that's pretty common. A new seal won't help if the bushing is shot. The original was only 8mm long. The replacement from Mike's is 10mm long (better) but you can even put a 12mm long one in. That's what I do now. You can get them from McMaster-Carr for about half of what Mike's asks .....


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Here's a 12mm long bushing installed and as you can see, it sticks out a little .....

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But, since the pushrod seal has four little "feet" on it that hold it away from the bushing, there's no clearance issues .....

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I have fallen behind here. My son showed up with anotjer project, my old CB1, and we went to the TN rally together.
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First father/son trip in 2 decades. A slow and methodical disassembly continues. I hope to do a Minton fork mod. The swing arm is ready for clean and rattlecan paint It seems to havebronze bushings aleady. I will add front motor mount to the spray rack before I spray. As I proceed I can mask the engine to spray down tubes etc to cover the exposed frame. The old cut front fender might be the source of the correct steel to make side cover mounts. I drove 46 minutes (with a nervous dog sitting pup ready to poop in my passenger seat) to find a chrome shop to strip the chrome front and rear fender, about double$ what I hoped. I like the guy immediately so I agreed.
 
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42 year old bike. Fenders are in for dechrome,, due late this week. Tank was drained this week because I needed lawnmower gas and the inside has just little spots of rust, freckles really. The title VIN matches the stamped frame #. There is a Yamaha sticker on the neck near the stamped # that has a different Vehicle ID #. (?). I removed the headlight bucket as that will go out for paint also. Call me lucky. ALL of the original color coded wires and connectors are in pretty good shape so reassembly should not be mass confusion.
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I take it you mean rim from mikes? Your rear is a 18-2.15-36 WM type. Mikes has the WM 19-2.15-36 on sale for $60. Great deal. The problem I`m having is I need a 40 spoke TT hub 4" width. I`ve tried Cognito, Banke Kosman, Star Racer and their all over $650.00. With brake rotor, rotor adaptor, spacers, tire, tube and liner, stainless line, caliper, caliper bracket, master cyl etc that comes to about $1800. A lot of money just to put a front brake on my tracker make over.:doh:
 
I take it you mean rim from mikes? Your rear is a 18-2.15-36 WM type. Mikes has the WM 19-2.15-36 on sale for $60. Great deal. The problem I`m having is I need a 40 spoke TT hub 4" width. I`ve tried Cognito, Banke Kosman, Star Racer and their all over $650.00. With brake rotor, rotor adaptor, spacers, tire, tube and liner, stainless line, caliper, caliper bracket, master cyl etc that comes to about $1800. A lot of money just to put a front brake on my tracker make over.:doh:
Somebody had a 19x1.85 at $86 or so. That was my target.
 
I take it you mean rim from mikes? Your rear is a 18-2.15-36 WM type. Mikes has the WM 19-2.15-36 on sale for $60. Great deal. The problem I`m having is I need a 40 spoke TT hub 4" width. I`ve tried Cognito, Banke Kosman, Star Racer and their all over $650.00. With brake rotor, rotor adaptor, spacers, tire, tube and liner, stainless line, caliper, caliper bracket, master cyl etc that comes to about $1800. A lot of money just to put a front brake on my tracker make over.:doh:
I don't know if it fits your needs, but old Honda hubs (CB750K,F & GL1000) are 40 spoke and ~4" from rotor flange to outside of speedo drive (axle OD is 15mm)
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I take it you mean rim from mikes? Your rear is a 18-2.15-36 WM type. Mikes has the WM 19-2.15-36 on sale for $60. Great deal. The problem I`m having is I need a 40 spoke TT hub 4" width. I`ve tried Cognito, Banke Kosman, Star Racer and their all over $650.00. With brake rotor, rotor adaptor, spacers, tire, tube and liner, stainless line, caliper, caliper bracket, master cyl etc that comes to about $1800. A lot of money just to put a front brake on my tracker make over.:doh:
I am intrigued by an 18" or 16" front but for my first foray into XS650 "Amature" build I am really only looking at some mild mods, retro 60's paint, etc. Understand that I have a pretty cool 750cc tracker that I have spent some time developing into a "hop on it and run errands" ride. I am new at this game, there are a thousand directions to follow and I am focusing on a "retro restomod". Not exotic in any way shape or form.
 
I don't know if it fits your needs, but old Honda hubs (CB750K,F & GL1000) are 40 spoke and ~4" from rotor flange to outside of speedo drive (axle OD is 15mm)View attachment 226108
Thanks but I am going the stock hub and a 19" rim. I spent some time with @desmoman900 at the Smokies rally and he assured me lacing up a rim is a piece of cake. Exactly how bad am I going to be cussing his name when my wobbly front rim is done?
 
Sorry TW - the last post a bit of a hijack for Halfmile. Anyway, so the rear rim is an "Akront style" shouldered rim. So you want a matching front 19"? I'm not clear on the hub: '81 Heritage # of spokes?

I've been at it a while, but I find wheel lacing and truing a fairly simple process if proper steps are followed.
 
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Sorry TW - the last post a bit of a hijack for Halfmile. Anyway, so the rear rim is an "Akront style" shouldered rim. So you want a matching front 19"? I'm not clear on the hub: '81 Heritage # of spokes?

I've been at it a while, but I find wheel lacing and truing a fairly simple process if proper steps are followed.
No sorries, all is good in learning new information. Yes a matching front. This is an 81 Special II. I will recount but I am pretty sure it is 36 spokes. At the Tennessee Rally @desmoman900 explained how he did it so I have a fair idea where I am going. It is all new to me but, A job worth doing is worth doing over. Added a pic and it is 36 spokes.
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