Got a rotor on the way thanks to Gary. I also ordered two more boxes to check them out. Once rotor is installed I’ll check current box again against it, then try the other two and see where I’m at
An $8-$12 little DVM "digital volt meter" https://www.bing.com/shop/productpa...rue"&productpage=true&FORM=SHPPDP&browse=true tells you when your system is failing. Cheap, easy...All of this rotor discussion has me wondering about the charging system on my bike. I'm putting it out there now that I plan to take my '74 on a longer multi-day ride next season so I better have a close look and possibly rebuild some spares I have. Thanks for the kick in the pants Jesse!
In 2002 I was (still am) a subscriber to @wkdenton's yam650@micapeak.com. I had a 2000 mile trip planned and posed the question, "What spare parts do I need to carry?" I got several responses, "rotor and puller." I didn't. The main fuse opened twice on the trip. I made it. The next time I rode the bike I didn't get two miles before the battery went flat due to a shorted rotor. @DonebySunday hooked me up with a rewind and it has been working fine ever since.All of this rotor discussion has me wondering about the charging system on my bike. I'm putting it out there now that I plan to take my '74 on a longer multi-day ride next season so I better have a close look and possibly rebuild some spares I have. Thanks for the kick in the pants Jesse!
All he has to do is rewind all of them and he'll be done.So what I’m hearing is @Jim is going to have such a busy winter rewinding rotors he will be able to buy multiple pairs of workshop sandals. And you thought you were retired. HA! I think once the rotor and gonzo box situation is settled on my bike I’ll be able to go on a distance shake down run. Just need to calibrate my speedometer and it should be all done
and you're far too kind to mention a Yamaha DT175 and a 440 Victor and uhm, certain paint jobs and uhm, a van and uhm . . .All he has to do is rewind all of them and he'll be done.
Hope you are lucky with the boxes. I ordered 6 from three different suppliers off eBay. Only two were of use.Got a rotor on the way thanks to Gary. I also ordered two more boxes to check them out. Once rotor is installed I’ll check current box again against it, then try the other two and see where I’m at
If they are bad I’ll probably honestly grab 10 or so from all over Amazon and just return what doesn’t work.Hope you are lucky with the boxes. I ordered 6 from three different suppliers off eBay. Only two were of use.
Blimey that’s seen better days.Removed the rotor from the bike today. Here are some photos of the specimen.
Going to give it the Old Yeller treatment. It still charged just fine but damn this thing has been through hellBlimey that’s seen better days.
Sure is Jim, sure isYup, that's a Chinese repop. Junk in other words. Is that an extra magnet glued on top of the imbedded one?
Yep and then when you finish you can’t believe you made it.I’m so close I can feel it.
Jim, on the pigtail would those be the blue and white wires? I believe when I read through the guide (information overload) I read those were the two to swap. I currently have the pigtail as is with just blue and white swapped. I’ll have to take a look at the tci side a I’m using a “chopper harness”. Maybe I got something crossedMake a suggestion, Jessee... double check your pigtail is using the retard coil on the TCI pickup and not the advance side.
40° advance from the pickup and about 15° from the gonzo box is about 55° give or take. That looks to be about where you're at.
The connector from the pickup has 3 wires.... orange, grey and black. Black is common, grey is advance and orange is retard.Jim, on the pigtail would those be the blue and white wires? I believe when I read through the guide (information overload) I read those were the two to swap. I currently have the pigtail as is with just blue and white swapped. I’ll have to take a look at the tci side a I’m using a “chopper harness”. Maybe I got something crossed