JesseeS Build Thread

Just wanted to update with some pics. It’s the first time the bikes been out of the garage since I moved into the house almost 2 years ago. I’m still waiting for my headlight brackets (typical) and my seat is of the finest quality, But I needed to see how she looked in the sun. The color is really mind blowing. Even at ~10ft it looks black, and you only see purple when you get on top of it in certain angles. I personally think the back end needs to be raised slightly, so may go with Thruxton shocks. Also looking at what would be the seat cowl, I think it’s too sharp edged (if you get what I’m saying). The tank is more rounded and flowing and I think the seat cowl needs to come further to me/the tank and gently round off to the back vs being quite angled like now. I’m open to all comments, critiques and suggestions. Very happy with how it’s coming so far but still a ways to go

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Its looking damn fine JesseeS. I agree with you about the seat unit. A slightly more rounded and elongated tail would create a more balanced and flowing profile. How are the Mo-Gadget electrics coming along?
 
I’m not going with a stock rear but Cognito Moto (who made my front wheel) makes a rear disc conversion hub/wheel that will match the front so both front and rear will be 18” and laced
Exactly what I did and it all works a treat.
 
I think I'd be tempted to find an old Special tank, cut the back off it and use that as the basis for a cowl. Could be spread open/closed... tilted... whatever it takes. Talk about flowing aesthetically.
Since it's got a pretty good drop at the end, tail/brake lights could be molded in.

If you like that idea... I've got plenty of Special tanks. I could cut one off, send it to you and go back and forth 'till it's a painted product ready for mounting.
Great idea Jim.
 
Its looking damn fine JesseeS. I agree with you about the seat unit. A slightly more rounded and elongated tail would create a more balanced and flowing profile. How are the Mo-Gadget electrics coming along?
Thank you! To be honest I started connecting the ground in the switches and gave up wiring after 5 min. My hands are shaky as it is and everything being so small I’m going to need to set aside a couple of days to sit down, get my glasses(which I NEVER have to use) and then get to it. The only good thing is once it’s done, it’s done. Everything else to the m unit will be with nice connectors. These Germans make me need the talent of a Swiss watch maker
 
Thank you! To be honest I started connecting the ground in the switches and gave up wiring after 5 min. My hands are shaky as it is and everything being so small I’m going to need to set aside a couple of days to sit down, get my glasses(which I NEVER have to use) and then get to it. The only good thing is once it’s done, it’s done. Everything else to the m unit will be with nice connectors. These Germans make me need the talent of a Swiss watch maker
Thats exactly what my experience has been. The Revival momentary switches are beautiful; but wiring them up is a watchmakers job. I have sh*t eyesight, hands like shovels and finger dexterity of a hippo!
 
Thats exactly what my experience has been. The Revival momentary switches are beautiful; but wiring them up is a watchmakers job. I have sh*t eyesight, hands like shovels and finger dexterity of a hippo!
I'm about to attempt the M-unit blue job on mine with M-lock & M-button. Still collecting bits & pieces to do get into it.
 
pro tips -- use JST-JWPF connectors with the small gauge wires used for the motogadget bits like switches and signals. they're very low profile so if you run micro switches on your bars, you can still do all your connections inside the bars - especially when running the m-button for the bus connection from your bar switches back to the m-unit.

bootlace ferrules are also great for the terminations into the m-unit.
 
Spent time in the garage with a quick and dirty wiring job today to get the bike running again (just in case). Choke on, electric start pressed it took a little bit but she got going, but something seemed..off. She danced, but not in the jazzy nature as usual. I clicked the choke down half way. Right off. Ok. Restart and go through the procedure again. Won’t run without choke. Get her going again and Check right side exhaust, oh ya shes hot, left side, cold. Great. Pulled the plugs, left side bone dry. Right side sooted up like a coal miner. Awesome. I wanted to change the jetting in my carbs anyways so I guess it’s time to take ‘‘em down and check them yet again. I am really bad at setting the float level so will work on that first. I wanted to go up on the pilot circuit one size(currently at 42.5). Going to read through my carb guide again. Also checked my coil. It’s the mikes dial output coil. Got 2.6 ohms between where the spade connections go and ~14k between the plug prongs. Does this seem low? Here’s a pic of my specs I keep in my book
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Hmmm: It's a long thread & I forget what ignition you're running?
IMHO, the coil specs and the carb jetting are certainly close enough to run. Floats: 22mm, fuel screws ~3 turns yada, yada.
Trouble-shooting time.....
 
Spent time in the garage with a quick and dirty wiring job today to get the bike running again (just in case). Choke on, electric start pressed it took a little bit but she got going, but something seemed..off. She danced, but not in the jazzy nature as usual. I clicked the choke down half way. Right off. Ok. Restart and go through the procedure again. Won’t run without choke. Get her going again and Check right side exhaust, oh ya shes hot, left side, cold. Great. Pulled the plugs, left side bone dry. Right side sooted up like a coal miner. Awesome. I wanted to change the jetting in my carbs anyways so I guess it’s time to take ‘‘em down and check them yet again. I am really bad at setting the float level so will work on that first. I wanted to go up on the pilot circuit one size(currently at 42.5). Going to read through my carb guide again. Also checked my coil. It’s the mikes dial output coil. Got 2.6 ohms between where the spade connections go and ~14k between the plug prongs. Does this seem low? Here’s a pic of my specs I keep in my book
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I had a similar problem once and spent some time sorting through it. Seem when I tightened or loosened float bowl drains I wrench the carb rack enough to dislodge one of the carbs from the boot. And... I wouldn't change jetting just because a plug gets sooted while running on the enricher.
 
Maybe not for the plugs... but the -34's were choked by the EPA to begin with. Your list shows the stock pilot...42.5.
You're running the 750 kit... commando's and Pods or stock intake?
I'd at minimum go to a 45 on the pilot.... just to start. And have a set of 47.5's on hand as well.
You're one up on the mains. Those big pistons might want more there as well.
Fwiw, I don't think jetting is your current problem. Like JP says above, all you listed should be close enough to run.
Kinda late to ask now, but did you slosh that tank out before putting fuel in? I normally remind people to do that after I paint one. Think I forgot to remind you.... Oops.
 
Get her going again and Check right side exhaust, oh ya shes hot, left side, cold. Great. Pulled the plugs, left side bone dry. Right side sooted up like a coal miner.
Well at least we know the sooty plug works. First thing I'd do is swap sides on the plugs. Then swap sides on the HT leads. Most likely fuel starved on the left, but always try to eliminate the obvious/easy stuff first.
After that drop the bowls and see if fuel pours out both of 'em in Prime.
If all that's good, then drop the carbs.
 
Jessee, I a newbie here. I have a BBK 750 with pods and pipes. My 77 BS38 carbs are different but for a reference I am (my motor is) very happy with up three on the mains and up two on the pilots and the needle 1 step leaner.
 
@jpdevol I’m running the stock TCI ignition at the moment.

@Jim I’m running Uni pod filters. I ordered up to 3 steps higher for every circuit just in case. I didn’t slosh out the tank, got over eager to be honest. Although that’s on me as I should’ve known better. Going to give everything a once over tonight.

@teamWicked i appreciate the info it’s good to know what other people are running with similar mods.
 
I didn’t slosh out the tank, got over eager to be honest. Although that’s on me as I should’ve known better. Going to give everything a once over tonight.
Fwiw, I blow the tanks out with shop air when I'm done painting, so it should have been fairly clean... never hurts to go overboard though...
 
I re-read your description, pondered a bit. Your "left side bone dry" and choked requirement would lead me (after cursory electrics) to carbs - especially since you're gonna re-jet anyway. Common fuel feed on BS34, good thing is they have the drain screws so easy to check if bowls have gas. Then close exam of float valve (stuck closed?) and screens (even if new) and scrutinize pilot circuit and spray some contact cleaner to verify that passage with screws and jets out.

Good luck!
 
@jpdevol I’m running the stock TCI ignition at the moment.

@Jim I’m running Uni pod filters. I ordered up to 3 steps higher for every circuit just in case. I didn’t slosh out the tank, got over eager to be honest. Although that’s on me as I should’ve known better. Going to give everything a once over tonight.

@teamWicked i appreciate the info it’s good to know what other people are running with similar mods.
@Jim , @5twins and others have developed pretty good guidelines here. They are all starting points. As delivered from PO my bike was 7 steps up on mains, stock pilots and stock needle height. It ran good (not great) hard on the throttle but was uncivilized everywhere else. It is now a "hop on for an errand" civilized and pulls like a freight train 3500-5500 with the help I recieved on this forum. :)
 
Just got back in from the garage. Swapped plugs and swapped leads. Same issue. Drained carb bowls and got gas out of each. Removed the carbs and checked inside. Float height seems to be ok. Nothing gummed up and moving freely. Swapped out the pilots and mains on the right hand side. Nothing clogged and replaced with 137.5 main and 45 pilot jet. Checked left side (bone dry side) and yup, pilot jet all clogged up. Flushed the carbs out, and replaced with new jets to match. Synced the carbs as close as I could get with my blind eyes and back on she went. Hooked everything back up, pull the choke, light her up and….nothing. Didn’t want to start up, just kept sputtering. Said “screw it” closed the choke, hit the button and she can right to life no hesitation. Idled right up. Let her run for a few and got hot headers on both sides now. Carbs definitely need to be synched, when I rev the bike it gets a ever so slight pop now and then, and when revving it doesn’t have a hanging idle, but when I release the throttle and the idle starts coming down it will rev back up for maybe half a second (after having already starting to rev down) then continue back down to idle. So definitely some fine tuning to do but at least It’s idling and running on both cylinders. Will do the fine tuning once the bike gets to a riding state. Thank you everybody for your insight!
 
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