Here's a write-up I did on my MP08 install that may be of interest to you .....
https://www.xs650.com/threads/honda-mp08-coil.55408/
https://www.xs650.com/threads/honda-mp08-coil.55408/
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Kdobbs '82 Build Thread
- Thread starter Kdobbs372
- Start date
I went a different route. I installed the coil on the front of the battery box.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/jims-1980-sg-miss-september.50545/post-609505
https://www.xs650.com/threads/jims-1980-sg-miss-september.50545/post-609505
That's a great write up! Thanks for sharing with me
If you’re going to be riding it, get an o’ring chain with clip. I buy them cut to the proper length.
The last ones I bought came from Michael Morse at 650 Central and from Dime City. Either will get you a good chain fast.
The last ones I bought came from Michael Morse at 650 Central and from Dime City. Either will get you a good chain fast.
Thank you!
Well, I followed your advice and my brackets don’t look as nice as yours, but I took the original bracket that came on the MP08 and fabricated to work similar to yours. It works. Thanks again for your help!
Attachments
OK, looking at my wiring harness now and I have a couple of plugs that either have been eliminated or a jumper inserted. Wondering if someone could help me identify why these plugs were eliminated or a jumper was added. Please see pictures and advise. Thank you so much.
Attachments
Jeez, that wiring looks pretty ratty and could use a good clean-up, lol. If for no other reason, it will allow you to see and identify the wire colors. Your 1st two pics appear to be of the sidestand switch and relay connections. Your last two are of the combination headlight/starter relay. You don't need any jumper wires on the sidestand stuff - if you remove both the switch AND the relay. You don't need or want a jumper wire on the other relay either. However, you do need a jumper wire in the clutch switch relay harness plug if you remove it. This restores power to the starter. Details are in post #55 here ......
https://www.xs650.com/threads/200-special.51454/page-3
And heck, if you want to learn about most all of the things you can do to one of these to improve it and fix it up, read the whole thread, lol.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/200-special.51454/page-3
And heck, if you want to learn about most all of the things you can do to one of these to improve it and fix it up, read the whole thread, lol.
Fantastic. The side stand switch was removed, but not the relay. I have now removed that relay. I followed the thread you sent me for the jumper wire for the clutch relay. The clutch switch would be the wire coming off the clutch handle going into the headlight assembly to the green plug as pictured. So I just need to unplug it? Thanks 5twins!
Attachments
Yes, and you can remove the switch from the clutch handle as well if you want.
Thank you!
Some people like these added safety relays but on a 40+ year old bike, I figure they're just a couple of more things that could go wrong, lol. The clutch switch and relay is the lesser of these two "evils". If something goes wrong with them, the starter is disabled, the bike will still kick start and run. But that sidestand switch and relay gotta go, lol. They act upon the electronic ignition black box, "killing" it when activated. The bike won't run. And the sidestand switch, due to it's location, has been known to fail. Mounted on the stand under the engine, it is subjected to all sorts of water, dirt, and road debris kicked up while riding.
I appreciate the information and I agree. They are both gone on my bike now.
cafe14
XS650 Member
I've seen excellent responses to this thread, lots of helpful people doing what they can to help the original poster out.
But I did notice one thing that I have had some experience with. Someone said to use non-ethanol gas only.
I got my '81 650 XS about 30 years ago. I've only used gas straight from the pump with ethanol in it for all of that time. For many years, but not all, I completely drained the carbs when winterizing. I ALWAYS put STA-Bil in the tank in addition to that for winterizing.
I have never had any problems with fuel gumming up the carburetors. I'm not saying it will work for anyone else, but that's my experience,
But I did notice one thing that I have had some experience with. Someone said to use non-ethanol gas only.
I got my '81 650 XS about 30 years ago. I've only used gas straight from the pump with ethanol in it for all of that time. For many years, but not all, I completely drained the carbs when winterizing. I ALWAYS put STA-Bil in the tank in addition to that for winterizing.
I have never had any problems with fuel gumming up the carburetors. I'm not saying it will work for anyone else, but that's my experience,
I use ethanol free gas in my '80SG. When I park it for the season, I ride it into the garage with a full tank and shut the key off. That's it, no petcocks to shut off (vacuum), don't drain the carbs, no Stabil....... nothin'
Haven't touched the carbs in about 5yrs now. Always starts in the spring. I'll stick with the alcy free gas.
I've run both with no issues. Today I use mostly the non-ethanol stuff as it's more readily available and I think the bikes do run a bit better on it. But before that, I ran the ethanol for many years with no problems. But the start of this year will be interesting. Normally I get to take the bike out for a short spin over the winter when we get a thaw but this year, that didn't happen. We never got any warm spells. So, the bikes have been sitting since last fall, tanks full and gas in the carbs. I don't foresee a problem but I'll know later this week as the weather is finally breaking around here (predicted in the 70's by next weekend, yeah !!!).
I agree the loom needs a complete overhaul. Those plugs disintegrating and the colour of the wrapping indicates, to me, every wire coupling, bullet connecter, switches, ( bar and ignition), need dismantling, checking for corrosion and exposed wires, in the bar switches dismantle, clean connections also wires that have/are breaking off the solder.
Looked for a recent thread where a guy lost his leg. Couldn't find it.
It's not often the side stand is left down, it does happen, I have done it a couple of times going around a corner, luckerly I was going slow and in a quiet street though it still pushed me up straight and into the middle of the road. Luckily no other cars oncoming.
In that thread the owner left the side stand down, where he ended up loosing his leg when he lost control due to the side stand hitting the ground.
Totally your choice. The safety switch is just that. If it goes bad then it is just an unplug and removal when you get home. If it works then I ask why remove something that may save your life or a limb. Inconvenience, maybe
Link to a continuity thread cleaning up my secondhand loom.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/continuity-testing-made-easy.49917/
Oh, I hate those hard plastic insulation sleeves that come on some crimps. I remove them and just use shrink wrap or a soft plastic sleeve instead.
Well, I got out for a little spin on my '78 today, 1st ride of the season. It started up no problem, maybe turning over a few more times than usual, but it hadn't been run since last Fall so I'm happy with that, lol. I put one petcock in the "Prime" position, put the choke on, and hit the button.
Well, I got out for a little spin on my '78 today, 1st ride of the season. It started up no problem, maybe turning over a few more times than usual, but it hadn't been run since last Fall so I'm happy with that, lol. I put one petcock in the "Prime" position, put the choke on, and hit the button.
