Yes, priority is the guide, and check cylinders/pistons/valves. I'd like to get this thing back on the road as soon as possible.
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Kevin's 1980 XS650-G "Restoration" Thread
- Thread starter Kevin Kruse
- Start date
Yes, build your own engine stand, that TC Bros. one is garbage, ill-fitting and difficult to install. The only reason I even have one is because someone gave it to me, lol. I discovered what a P.I.T.A. it is the first (and only) time I tried to use it.
I make 2 versions of this stand based on these modified plans from an old shop manual. The uprights are 1" taller to allow space for the starter motor. The original plans were for the XS1 which didn't have a starter motor ......
I also now trim the tops of the uprights more to allow easier access to the bolts or pins ......
Speaking of which, I now also make pins to replace the bolts .......
And as far as the 2 different types of stands go, I make one "normal" style and another with outriggers I call my "traveler". This one is more stable and less prone to tipping when transporting a motor in the back of a pick-up or van .......
I make 2 versions of this stand based on these modified plans from an old shop manual. The uprights are 1" taller to allow space for the starter motor. The original plans were for the XS1 which didn't have a starter motor ......
I also now trim the tops of the uprights more to allow easier access to the bolts or pins ......
Speaking of which, I now also make pins to replace the bolts .......
And as far as the 2 different types of stands go, I make one "normal" style and another with outriggers I call my "traveler". This one is more stable and less prone to tipping when transporting a motor in the back of a pick-up or van .......
For what it's worth, on my own build thread one of the posts I made is purely links for parts. A sort of "notepad" to myself.
Got the stand done and finished disassembly, long day and late night..
I expected more scraping on the aluminum body of the guide, only a little bit on the edges. Ordered the SR500 guide, going for the mod.
Some cylinder wall scraping, just barely catching my nail. There is a ring though probably from sitting, but I don't really feel it. Honable?
Cam lobes show almost no wear.
Going to take valves out this weekend, clean things up a little and take measurements. Overall pretty happy with what I see.
There was only one casualty.. When trying to loosen the lower oil feed tube nut I didn't use 2 wrenches to hold both nuts so it twisted the tube and cracked one of the T's.. add that to the shopping list
I expected more scraping on the aluminum body of the guide, only a little bit on the edges. Ordered the SR500 guide, going for the mod.
Some cylinder wall scraping, just barely catching my nail. There is a ring though probably from sitting, but I don't really feel it. Honable?
Cam lobes show almost no wear.
Going to take valves out this weekend, clean things up a little and take measurements. Overall pretty happy with what I see.
There was only one casualty.. When trying to loosen the lower oil feed tube nut I didn't use 2 wrenches to hold both nuts so it twisted the tube and cracked one of the T's.. add that to the shopping list
I would be tempted to try fixing that with silver solder or even lead solder given the price of replacement oil lines.
Yes, it appears the guide wasn't centered properly. Honestly, based on the number of old original guides I see like this, I don't think the factory bothered to center them, they just slapped them in, lol.
Overall looking pretty good. Best to change the guide before it deteriorates further. Interesting in seeing how the conversion to SR500 guide goes. I like that idea using a Yamaha guide instead of a reproduction part of unknown quality.
I do have some silver solder laying around, I feel like if I try to tweak it back to get it looking straight it’ll just snap off though.. Found one for $30 on eBay.
It seems like they could’ve located it so it can’t be crooked?
Right??? Dowel pins and reamed holes work wonders.
I always do a few passes with my Lisle15000 hone which hones a straight hole vs following the shape of any wear. That way I can instantly see where the wear is and measure it with my dial bore gauge. However, the scratches on your cylinder don’t look that bad and I would think a ball hone would work fine to prep your cylinder for new rings.
There's play in the mounting bolt holes, not a lot but enough to allow the guide to be mounted crooked. In your case, it looks like the guide was cocked to the left, allowing the chain to contact the "rail" on the lower left and upper right. This is why properly centering the guide is so important. You want to mount it in the cylinder before you put the cylinder on. That way you can center both the top and bottom by measuring the distance between the sides of the guide and the tunnel ......
So I noticed this spherical looking object down in the crankcase oil passage where the oil tube threads, is that something that’s supposed to be there? That’s the best picture I could get of it.
Not that I'm aware of. Can you fish it out easily? Be interesting to see what it is.
I’m kinda worried it might fall down the passage, trying to think of a safe way to get it out..
It looks like it's rubber?
Well I got it out, tilted the motor back so it wouldn't fall back in, it just crumbled apart when I poked it, cleaned it out with some q-tips. It felt and looked like carbon buildup, or maybe toasted rubber? It looked like a bubble and it was stuck to the passage wall. 
Going to make a valve spring tool and check all that out, tomorrow..
Wondering if I should remove the rocker shafts to blow out those oil passages?
Going to make a valve spring tool and check all that out, tomorrow..
Wondering if I should remove the rocker shafts to blow out those oil passages?
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Have we discussed sealing washers for the 4 outer studs yet?
My local Ace Hardware carries 10mm copper washers. I think they're about a buck apiece. Anneal 'em and they do a fine job of sealing.
I prefer 'em over the brass ones 'cause they're softer... they'll seal easier.... and 'cause they're a hell of a lot cheaper.
My local Ace Hardware carries 10mm copper washers. I think they're about a buck apiece. Anneal 'em and they do a fine job of sealing.
I prefer 'em over the brass ones 'cause they're softer... they'll seal easier.... and 'cause they're a hell of a lot cheaper.
Just purchased a few minutes ago 
Recommended by 5twins..
https://www.xs650.com/threads/repla...der-head-washers-with-brass.68402/post-883191
Also bought these valve stem seals, as seen in Mailman’s post..
https://www.xs650.com/threads/valve...t-without-pulling-the-motor.59722/post-694641
Recommended by 5twins..
https://www.xs650.com/threads/repla...der-head-washers-with-brass.68402/post-883191
Also bought these valve stem seals, as seen in Mailman’s post..
https://www.xs650.com/threads/valve...t-without-pulling-the-motor.59722/post-694641
Working on cleaning up the carbon buildup, should I be concerned by these cracks near the intake seats?
No. Those marks, cracks or flaws, or whatever they are, were put there by the factory. Not sure why they did, but every XS head I've run across have them...
