I did replace that bushing. When I installed the seal I pushed it in pretty deep, I’m thinking it’s bottoming against that bushing because I got the longer 10mm one. I’m wondering if that’s having to do with it leaking?
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Kevin's 1980 XS650-G "Restoration" Thread
- Thread starter Kevin Kruse
- Start date
Be sure to replace the bushing behind the pushrod seal.I’m back in business
Sounds good, valves are noticeably quieter.
But I’ve acquired a nasty leak in the clutch pushrod seal, funny how the old one in its condition was sealing better..
Let’s see how many more leaks spring up..
I recently fitted a 8 ID x 10mm OD x 10mm long bush along with Yamaha OEM seal. No issues, just works. A shame you have another leak, good luck with it.
Actually I got the 12mm long bushing, I double checked my order..
I saw those recommended on the forum but I decided to play it safe and go with the 10mm long one. My thinking is that it is 25% longer than the stock one anyway so definitely an improvement guiding the push rod.
I don't know if a 12mm bush has caused the issue, I'm sure you'll sort it.
Looks like I’m running a bit on the hot side, I don’t recall my pipes ever getting blue like this, and a little purple near the flange. Bike feels a little hot sitting at a light.
Left plug
Right plug
The plug readings are after about 40 miles since first start, new plugs.
I went one step up on the MJ and PJ, 135 and 45. Mixture screws at 3 turns.
I did do some porting while I was in there, I don’t think I removed too much material. Would that make it run leaner if I removed too much?
Also when checking the float level with the clear tubes, is the ideal height a couple mm’s below the bowl flange or level with the flange?
Left plug
Right plug
The plug readings are after about 40 miles since first start, new plugs.
I went one step up on the MJ and PJ, 135 and 45. Mixture screws at 3 turns.
I did do some porting while I was in there, I don’t think I removed too much material. Would that make it run leaner if I removed too much?
Also when checking the float level with the clear tubes, is the ideal height a couple mm’s below the bowl flange or level with the flange?
I like to set the float level at the flange, which puts the fuel level a MM or so below the top of the bowl (since the bowl fits up inside the flange). Yes, you appear to be running lean. Original double wall headpipes shouldn't turn colors like that. That's why they're made with the double wall (with an air space between the pipes), so they don't turn colors. I'd suggest richening up the jetting a little more. Maybe try another size up on the mains, and reduce the air jet one size. That will richen the idle circuit up a little and maybe put some color on your plugs (they look a bit lean). I can't see it in your plug pics, but is there a "smoke" ring at the bottom of the porcelain? I'm thinking not ......
I like to see it about 1/4 of the way up the porcelain. Halfway up or more indicates you're too rich. The air jet is a nice way to fine tune this. It makes the idle circuit a little richer or leaner (depending which way you go) but doesn't have as big an effect as changing the pilot jet itself. So, with it, you can achieve richness levels in between pilot jet sizes. This is a nice feature of the BS34 carbs but many don't use it.
I don't think the porting will make it run leaner. In fact, I found the opposite to be true. I had read that porting (and the resulting better flow) can actually pull more fuel through the jets. I had never experienced this before but it seems to be true on my '78 (which I ported). I'm running the same carb sets ('78-'79 BS38s) on both my bikes, and had them jetted the same. The '83 isn't ported, and seemed to be running a little lean. The '78, on the other hand, seemed to be running rich. So, I went up a size on the mains on the '83, and down a size on the '78. The results were quite good. The '83 now has nice color on the plugs (they're actually tan, lol) while the plugs on the '78 are now much cleaner ( they were pretty black before). When your jetting is close, it's amazing what one more size change can do sometimes, lol.
I like to see it about 1/4 of the way up the porcelain. Halfway up or more indicates you're too rich. The air jet is a nice way to fine tune this. It makes the idle circuit a little richer or leaner (depending which way you go) but doesn't have as big an effect as changing the pilot jet itself. So, with it, you can achieve richness levels in between pilot jet sizes. This is a nice feature of the BS34 carbs but many don't use it.
I don't think the porting will make it run leaner. In fact, I found the opposite to be true. I had read that porting (and the resulting better flow) can actually pull more fuel through the jets. I had never experienced this before but it seems to be true on my '78 (which I ported). I'm running the same carb sets ('78-'79 BS38s) on both my bikes, and had them jetted the same. The '83 isn't ported, and seemed to be running a little lean. The '78, on the other hand, seemed to be running rich. So, I went up a size on the mains on the '83, and down a size on the '78. The results were quite good. The '83 now has nice color on the plugs (they're actually tan, lol) while the plugs on the '78 are now much cleaner ( they were pretty black before). When your jetting is close, it's amazing what one more size change can do sometimes, lol.
So I raised the float height a tad, and I was having trouble sealing the float valve, kept overflowing, ordering new ones.
And I shimmed the needles with 2 washers to see if it would richen up. I noticed after tightening the retaining plate that the needle couldn’t move because the spring was binding so I cut a coil off of it.
After about a 5 mile ride around town it still seems to run a little hot. And it felt like it was running worse, wanted to die after coming to a stop. Ordering a step up in the major and pilot jets and down in the air jet. And I’m not seeing any color or “smoke ring” down in the porcelain of the plugs, all white down there.
I also noticed with these new Suzuki floats that they come really close to bottoming out(or up?) in the float chamber when it should shut off fuel. It allows the valve to seat but can’t really push the little spring pin all the way down without the plastic making contact to the chamber casting.
And I shimmed the needles with 2 washers to see if it would richen up. I noticed after tightening the retaining plate that the needle couldn’t move because the spring was binding so I cut a coil off of it.
After about a 5 mile ride around town it still seems to run a little hot. And it felt like it was running worse, wanted to die after coming to a stop. Ordering a step up in the major and pilot jets and down in the air jet. And I’m not seeing any color or “smoke ring” down in the porcelain of the plugs, all white down there.
I also noticed with these new Suzuki floats that they come really close to bottoming out(or up?) in the float chamber when it should shut off fuel. It allows the valve to seat but can’t really push the little spring pin all the way down without the plastic making contact to the chamber casting.
Yes, that float needle looks worn. I've never needed to replace an original. Maybe yours is an aftermarket replacement? I've heard bad things about them, lol.
I'm about to order some new ones from niche that come with the seats, but seats come in different sizes, 1.5/1.8/2/2.3/2.5. Which size is correct?
Or should I get some from Mikes?
Or should I get some from Mikes?
According to the '80 factory shop manual (supplement), the float needle seat size is 2.0 mm. I'm pretty sure that number denotes the size of the hole through it, so it's pretty important.
If you search eBay with the Yamaha part #'s for the float needle and seat (new #25G-14107-20-00, old #3L1-14190-20-00), you'll get quite a few hits ( for the new # anyway), and many are pretty cheap.
Just found a pair of NOS needles and seats on eBay pretty cheap, and ordered some bigger jets.
Yes, the BS34 carbs come set up very lean from the factory, borderline too lean in my opinion. That means ANY change at all to intake and/or exhaust can make them too lean and require some minor re-jetting. In fact, it's said that a totally stock BS34 equipped bike will run better with one size up on the mains (132.5 stock to a 135). So, any mods (like your pods) may call for more.
When I got my '83, I thought it was all stock but on closer inspection, I discovered the P.O. had drilled extra holes in the ends of the mufflers ......
This small change was enough to affect the carbs and lean them out. I had already installed 135 mains but it still seemed lean, mainly in the pilot circuit (popping on decel). I didn't feel it needed a pilot jet size increase so I played around with the air jet. I went down two sizes (stock 135 to a 130) and that did the trick, putting some color back on the plugs and reducing the decel popping.
The bike came with the factory airbox, which I wanted to try out as I'd read these bikes run best with it. Well, I didn't find that to be true, lol. It ran no better than my pod-equipped '78. The only check mark I can put in the "Plus" column for the factory airbox is riding in the rain, and then it's only a very heavy rain. With pods, when you come to a stop, they can suck some water in, making the motor run rough and stumble, even stall if you don't keep it going with throttle blips. Once underway, the problem disappears. I guess the water just blows by when you're moving.
When I got my '83, I thought it was all stock but on closer inspection, I discovered the P.O. had drilled extra holes in the ends of the mufflers ......
This small change was enough to affect the carbs and lean them out. I had already installed 135 mains but it still seemed lean, mainly in the pilot circuit (popping on decel). I didn't feel it needed a pilot jet size increase so I played around with the air jet. I went down two sizes (stock 135 to a 130) and that did the trick, putting some color back on the plugs and reducing the decel popping.
The bike came with the factory airbox, which I wanted to try out as I'd read these bikes run best with it. Well, I didn't find that to be true, lol. It ran no better than my pod-equipped '78. The only check mark I can put in the "Plus" column for the factory airbox is riding in the rain, and then it's only a very heavy rain. With pods, when you come to a stop, they can suck some water in, making the motor run rough and stumble, even stall if you don't keep it going with throttle blips. Once underway, the problem disappears. I guess the water just blows by when you're moving.
I wonder what made it run so much leaner after rebuild though, my pipes never got that blue before, and I went up a step in my jets.
I re-oiled my uni filters, I don’t think I put enough on at first. Would an under-oiled filter make a lean condition?
I’ve been riding it around with the raised needles 1 washer and 3-1/2 turns on mix screws, seems like it’s running ok, maybe a little lacking WOT, mid range feels good.
Also have a question with the choke.
With properly tuned carbs how should the 2 choke settings run? Mine has never really increased the revs much, it’ll help keep an idle when cold but usually it’ll make the idle erratic. Should it increase revs when warm or want to die from being too rich?
I re-oiled my uni filters, I don’t think I put enough on at first. Would an under-oiled filter make a lean condition?
I’ve been riding it around with the raised needles 1 washer and 3-1/2 turns on mix screws, seems like it’s running ok, maybe a little lacking WOT, mid range feels good.
Also have a question with the choke.
With properly tuned carbs how should the 2 choke settings run? Mine has never really increased the revs much, it’ll help keep an idle when cold but usually it’ll make the idle erratic. Should it increase revs when warm or want to die from being too rich?
Should I be concerned of this noise? Sounds the noisiest near the adjuster. It always goes away when warmed up, and my cam chain is adjusted. I started noticing it after my recent trip.
I wouldn't be concerned if the noise goes away when it warms up.
What do you have the valves set at?
What do you have the valves set at?
when was the chain last adjusted?
Is the rod about flush with the housing, about 1mm of in/out movement when you spin the motor?
I had one chain set to "perfection" it would just slap/tick when cold go away as soon as the chain picked up oil.
Is the rod about flush with the housing, about 1mm of in/out movement when you spin the motor?
I had one chain set to "perfection" it would just slap/tick when cold go away as soon as the chain picked up oil.
So I've noticed my valves have been all over the place with these elephant adjusters when I check them, from .001-.01". Sometimes they're quiet and sometimes really noisy, usually after a highway ride. I've just been setting both intake and exhaust at .004".
I adjusted it 2 weeks ago, and then set valves. I tighten the adjuster screw in until I start to see minimal rod movement then back off to 1mm of in/out movement.
I adjusted it 2 weeks ago, and then set valves. I tighten the adjuster screw in until I start to see minimal rod movement then back off to 1mm of in/out movement.
.003" intake and .006" exhaust is what most folk use. I imagine those numbers will work just fine with the elephant feet.
