This is also true.
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Kick Starter Shaft Repair.
- Thread starter Jim
- Start date
The rudimentary app I'm using won't cut it. The only means to change the dia is to change the tooth count.
So I'm taking you up on your most generous offer. Let's try 1/2" OD with 32T. I'll send you my email addy.
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30T for the win!
Grouchie has been busy kicking out .STL files for me to print. Last go-around it looks like he nailed it. There's 30 teeth inside the boss. That pretty much confirms the 1.25mm pitch I took an educated guess at. Now I'm on the hunt for a wheel that pitch, that won't break the bank.
Grouchie has been busy kicking out .STL files for me to print. Last go-around it looks like he nailed it. There's 30 teeth inside the boss. That pretty much confirms the 1.25mm pitch I took an educated guess at. Now I'm on the hunt for a wheel that pitch, that won't break the bank.
Glad to be of service! 
I think I came up with 1.27mm. So I'll try and find a 1.25 or 1.3. If I strike out, I can always try the 1.2.
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Nothing to it
https://www.facebook.com/share/r/17wpxcPZda/
https://www.facebook.com/share/r/17wpxcPZda/
Where's the splines?
Plan B.
Or is it C... or D....
Been down in the basement workshop cleaning and organizing. All my bike projects have parts scattered here and there (mostly there). Decided a little organizing is in order. This is a rolling parts shelf that now has RD200, RD350 and DT250 parts on it. Not done, but it's gettin' there.
Anyway... I noticed something on the DT rear brake plate that caught my eye...
See what I'm talking about? Have a closer look at the cam to operate the brakes.
The splines on it are a perfect match for the kicker shaft splines. 30T and the same diameter. I found a NOS one on Ebay for 16 bucks to my door. Soon as it shows up I'll do some measuring and see if I can just graft it on the end of this kicker. The one on the DT brake plate is a little buggered, so I can use it there if I go back to plan A. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, as they say.
Stay tuned.
Or is it C... or D....
Been down in the basement workshop cleaning and organizing. All my bike projects have parts scattered here and there (mostly there). Decided a little organizing is in order. This is a rolling parts shelf that now has RD200, RD350 and DT250 parts on it. Not done, but it's gettin' there.
Anyway... I noticed something on the DT rear brake plate that caught my eye...
See what I'm talking about? Have a closer look at the cam to operate the brakes.
The splines on it are a perfect match for the kicker shaft splines. 30T and the same diameter. I found a NOS one on Ebay for 16 bucks to my door. Soon as it shows up I'll do some measuring and see if I can just graft it on the end of this kicker. The one on the DT brake plate is a little buggered, so I can use it there if I go back to plan A. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, as they say.
Stay tuned.
...and he ...scores!!! And what about the same part on an XS650 rear brake?Plan B.
Or is it C... or D....
Been down in the basement workshop cleaning and organizing. All my bike projects have parts scattered here and there (mostly there). Decided a little organizing is in order. This is a rolling parts shelf that now has RD200, RD350 and DT250 parts on it. Not done, but it's gettin' there.
View attachment 366812
Anyway... I noticed something on the DT rear brake plate that caught my eye...
View attachment 366813
See what I'm talking about? Have a closer look at the cam to operate the brakes.
View attachment 366814
The splines on it are a perfect match for the kicker shaft splines. 30T and the same diameter. I found a NOS one on Ebay for 16 bucks to my door. Soon as it shows up I'll do some measuring and see if I can just graft it on the end of this kicker. The one on the DT brake plate is a little buggered, so I can use it there if I go back to plan A. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, as they say.
Stay tuned.
Dunno. I'd guess it would be bigger but I don't have one to compare to.
The DT250 brake cam just showed up...
And as I suspected, it's a perfect match for the kicker boss.
Today is VanGo's day in the sun, so no work on this project today.
Well, maybe after dark if I still have some gumption left over.
We'll see....
And as I suspected, it's a perfect match for the kicker boss.
Today is VanGo's day in the sun, so no work on this project today.
Well, maybe after dark if I still have some gumption left over.
We'll see....
Gumption don't seem to be what you're short of... just sayin' 
!
!
Deep breath's... here we go.
Cut the end off the cam with a grinder.
Chucked that up and used a starter bit to put centering holes in both ends. Faced off the end first, of course.
Turns out the splined shaft half of this is almost exactly 1mm smaller than the kicker shaft (note to self here). Took the splined shaft outside and dunked it in the acid tank to remove all traces of the nickel plating.
Then switched gears and cut off the end of the kicker that I'd previously welded up for knurling. I'm not gonna put actual dimensions up here for the most part.... unless someone has a baby RD I don't know about?
Then chucked it up in the lathe. Since there's very little for the chuck to grab on to, I put the steady rest on the other end and made sure (tapped on it ) it ran true.
Drilled about an 8mm hole in the end all the way up to the groove for the snap ring.
Also cut a bevel on the end (no pic). After that, I put the splined shaft back in the lathe and turned it down to about 8.1mm.
Stuck the bits in Big Red and pressed 'em together. Turned out to be a good fit. As a guess..... about a ton of force to press 'em together. It was good enough that it prolly was strong enough without welding.
Set it up in my redneck rotisserie and used the TIG to weld both halves together.
Stuck it back in the lathe to turn the weld down. Used the steady rest again. Didn't want to use a live or dead center just in case it didn't press together exactly straight.
Remember I said the splined shaft (from a DT250) was about a mm thinner? I ran the weld out past where I thought it needed to be, stuck it in the engine and marked outside of the seal with a sharpie. That told me the weld went far enough out.
Confirming all was good, I cut a shoulder for the transition between the two halves.
And here we are....
Overall, I'm tickled with it. Runs true, correct dia for the seal and bushing, and good and strong... strong enough for a baby RD anyway. Got a few warts... some undercutting... but good enough. Remember, it's a kicker. It rotates 1/4 turn at start, and never moves again after the engines' running. Yeah, close enough.
Cheers.
Cut the end off the cam with a grinder.
Chucked that up and used a starter bit to put centering holes in both ends. Faced off the end first, of course.
Turns out the splined shaft half of this is almost exactly 1mm smaller than the kicker shaft (note to self here). Took the splined shaft outside and dunked it in the acid tank to remove all traces of the nickel plating.
Then switched gears and cut off the end of the kicker that I'd previously welded up for knurling. I'm not gonna put actual dimensions up here for the most part.... unless someone has a baby RD I don't know about?
Then chucked it up in the lathe. Since there's very little for the chuck to grab on to, I put the steady rest on the other end and made sure (tapped on it
) it ran true.Drilled about an 8mm hole in the end all the way up to the groove for the snap ring.
Also cut a bevel on the end (no pic). After that, I put the splined shaft back in the lathe and turned it down to about 8.1mm.
Stuck the bits in Big Red and pressed 'em together. Turned out to be a good fit. As a guess..... about a ton of force to press 'em together. It was good enough that it prolly was strong enough without welding.
Set it up in my redneck rotisserie and used the TIG to weld both halves together.
Stuck it back in the lathe to turn the weld down. Used the steady rest again. Didn't want to use a live or dead center just in case it didn't press together exactly straight.
Remember I said the splined shaft (from a DT250) was about a mm thinner? I ran the weld out past where I thought it needed to be, stuck it in the engine and marked outside of the seal with a sharpie. That told me the weld went far enough out.
Confirming all was good, I cut a shoulder for the transition between the two halves.
And here we are....
Overall, I'm tickled with it. Runs true, correct dia for the seal and bushing, and good and strong... strong enough for a baby RD anyway. Got a few warts... some undercutting... but good enough. Remember, it's a kicker. It rotates 1/4 turn at start, and never moves again after the engines' running. Yeah, close enough.
Cheers.
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!!!
Very nice work Jim! 
like the final solution!
