Kickstart gear broken on transmission side


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Hi all

My kick start gear has broken on the transmission side as in the picture. Is it possible to replace the gear without splitting the crank case or potentially get someone to weld in some metal on the teeth?

From my understanding the e-start doesn't work off that same gear so potentially I can fix that instead if the kickstart can't be fixed? Bike never had a working e start so I never bothered to investigate it.
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Is it possible to replace the gear without splitting the crank case or potentially get someone to weld in some metal on the teeth?

You're not alone a recent poster has the same issue.
you have to split the cases, but you knew that.
No way to weld and shape without filling the cases with dangerous metal and abrasives.
Weld is very soft compared to those gear teeth.
Damn that's unlucky (also nice to know I'm not the only idiot with a problem)

Anyways before that I had issues trying to kickstart, where trying to kick it would jam up and I falsely believes it to be seized pistons as I had it parked up for 6 months.
But after trying to turn over on the alternator, it turned smoothly.

I'm thinking I had an issue with the Kickstarter itself as now that I've spun the clutch with the e-start, to where there is tooth on the gear I still get the problem where it jams up. Am I missing something? Clutch cable is not attached and the bike is in neutral.
Also with the e-start, my bikes a 1979 447 engine, I always assumed the pinch ring thingy was broken but it appears to be fine. Is it worth still trying to squeeze it?
79 came with the heavier clip (end not in the little niche) Prolly doesn't hurt to resqueeze it. The latest tip on the squeeze is to insert a small drill bit in the U before clamping to keep the U from getting so tight it cracks. The clip is high tensile spring steel.
:twocents: In general, with an engine in good tune, e start works without issue, if cylinders are kinda just catching, not really go fire to run, the starter is more likely to kick out, grind, and rattle.
Thanks Gary. Hopefully between the e start and the remaining fine teeth I can make do until I'm ready to do a complete rebuild of the motor.
Wait hold on, the gear with the broken teeth isn't used for anything else other than the kick start right? So it should still run and move fine?
Does anyone know if this burring on the kickstart assembly in the case will cause issues operating the Kickstarter? I'm worried it might be causing the Kickstarter to lockup even after correct installation if it causes too much play or similar


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Are the crankcases meant to be a matched together? Thinking I might need to swap the bottom half
Yes they need to be a matched pair!
I'll take a look but I don't think that surface is critical usually kinda beat up.
If someone else has a beat up section of the same and it still runs fine then I'll have to take the risk? Otherwise I could try get someone to weld on a few extra layers of aluminum.

I haven't been able to reliably get it to lock up before but I feel like it does
Reckon it should be okay to run it then? I was worried the damage was deep enough that it wouldn't stop the kicker from going past
Garry hoos tells me there's meant to be a washer that goes between the circlip and the case which i don't remember seeing whatsoever. That might help a bit. Is there another similar washer I can use from the clutch assembly temporarily to test it out or is it a unique size on the bike?
On closer inspection, it seems just one layer is gone but maybe not enough to cause it the stopper to not stop the kickstart gear so maybe I'm fine and just need to add a washer to it


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