Late Model Engine Quirks

Which end of the spectrum are you looking at?
Horsepower or subtle niceties (function and reliability)?

Or all of it?

Off the shelf products,
Or craft your own,
Or postulated experiments?
 
Having had one of the swingarm bolts pop the threads end off while riding I like Mikes unshouldered swingarm bolt.
 
Pretty much anything engine related, TwoMany. I'm doing a custom 2 into 1 exhaust (this is also a chassis swap project I'm doing, so clearance is a non issue), 34VMs, PMA and Pamco. 700cc pistons from Japan listed on eBay (heard no problems with them on here). I also understand that, from reading on here, that intake manifolds changed to a aluminum spigot and rubber hose is a good thing. Keep in mind that I am splitting the engine cases so bottom end things are good to cover as well.

Hi solo, it seems like you a plan a major power boost plus a new chassis too.
That's gonna be an interesting bunch of photos to see.
One thing you didn't mention in the specification but I hope you plan to do is build in better brakes!
 
Ole 2minny sure knows how to kill a thread. :wink2: The clutch went through many permutations, all of which are marginal if you increase horsepower. read up on 8 plate clutches and other clutch strength band-aids. Watch for broken drive line cushion springs on the back of the clutch hub.
 
It's pretty easy to bump the HP above 4500rpm, fattening the torque down low for useful street power is a bit more elusive. Really there is very little info that I know of on achieving that end. The flat trackers have pipe length guides for moving the power around a bit but they may START at higher than fun street RPM. On the riff; not sure how well the bottom end and driveline will take to high torque at low RPM.
 
One of the best things you can do for these old engines is change the oil and clean the filters often, like every 1000 miles, especially if you're not tearing the bottom end apart and cleaning it out. It took me 6 to 8 oil changes and filter cleanings (about 6 or 7K miles) before my filters started coming out relatively clean. I attribute that to infrequent oil changes and filter cleanings in the bike's past. There was lots of gunk built up in that bottom end and it took literally thousands of miles to flush it all out.
 
If you need carbs the Keihin CVK are a good choice and won't break the bank. A #1 shell cam and RD valve springs also works well. The 2 into 1 exhaust not the best choice.
 
These guys quoted me $300 to do the REM process on all my gears.

http://www.taylor-race.com/isotropic.cfm

Seemed to me like their engineers knew what they were doing. My plan is to have HHB do a rephase, and I'll send out my tranny for this polishing. On top of that, I'll be having my cases, heads, and carbs vapor-blasted, that's all I can think of that i want to do.
 
Wasn't 2-1 or 4-1 all the rage in the '70s? Isn't that pretty much how yoshimura got on the map? If I remember right, seems like they were all claiming increased HP, and that was their major selling point.
 
...I think we're good as I only bookmarked 2 this time. But, I don't know what all you have or how you have sorted them, if at all. If you want to keep putting them up, I'll keep going through them.

No problem. Sorted? I wish. They're in the forum's reverse chronological order, according to the last posting date.

I can pare them down some more. What's your preference?
-- Run of the mill engine rebuild tips/tricks/gotchas
-- Exotic stuff

...what are the pros and cons for a 2-1 vs 2-2? I haven't, as of yet, really gotten into exhaust design.

I'll see what I've bookmarked...
 
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