Locking Nut and oil delivery bolt

Noidea

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wellwell well after going through my head questioning whether or not I should go in the engine finally got around to it. I believe my piston rings are shot considering the numbers I get with dry and wet compression test. So my goal is to switch them out. Some questions I have are what else should I replace since I alreadyhave the engine out? (Besides piston rings and gaskets)What gasket set is best for my tx650? The bolt that holds in the oil delivery tube broke what do I do, the tube is fine itself it's just the bolt do I need to get a whole new setup or can I just jb weld it together or
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And lastly how do I take out this freaking ring nut out. The manual says just use a hammer and punch to get it out but it doesn't seem to work it just sort of crushes it and I don't want to ruin it more than it is in the process. Ive also sprayed with WD to loosenitup and nada..yet, any help is appreciated thanks dudes
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For the oil tube hit gggGary up, place an ad in the classified or shop e-bay.
The advance castle nut almost looks like you were striking it straight on with a cold chisel?
 
Hi Noidea,
buy an el-cheapo socket with it's outside diameter the same as the ring-nut.
Notch the socket rim with an angle grinder all round so it fits the ring-nut's notches.
You may also need to dress out the remains of the socket's hexagon with a die-grinder
so it'll fit nice. A 12-point socket is less liable to need this.
Use the butchered socket on an air-impact wrench to whiz the ring-nut off.
 
Yes, you need a new oil pipe. Never saw that happen before but then I see things on this site all the time I've never seen happen before, lol.

When I go into one of these, besides the rings I usually replace the valve guide seals, hand lap the valves so they seal again, replace the cam chain and the front chain guide. I only replace rings if the bores are still in spec. If they're worn beyond that then a re-bore and oversize pistons and rings will be needed.
 
That notched nut, I don't know how sturdy it is, but you might want to try a small pipe wrench on it, if you have one, before you resort to making a tool from a socket. Could add in a propane torch if needed and you're willing to replace melted seals and o-rings. Point the flame to the side....

The oil tube in front, I had to heat that with a propane torch to get it to budge. The joint in the tube at the bottom is solder, which you can watch melt. I let it cool and solidify again before I turned the nut.
 
Was probably a bad idea to quit my job before fixing my engine but ill be alright haha got some money scrapped up to buy parts necessary found those oil delivery tubes only around 25-30 bucks on the ebays. I tried removing the ring nut with another method it All i had to do was put the engine in gear and the nut turned right out just used a bi sized punch so i dont score the nut anymore than it is easy as eggs. Kinda tore up the outer housing that sits before the bracket for the weights though so ill look into buying another one of those but still looks usable. Ill also go with the suggestion of 5twins and replace everything mentioned so that i can be sure everything will be ok. This my first engine rebuild although I've done valves and stuff in cars for my step dads shop the pressures on so Im just taking it slowly taking pictures of everything putting parts all into ziplocks bags keeping my work area neat. Any other advice you guys got for a rookie taking apart an engine? appreciate the replies as well this forum rules :bow:
 
The fitting that oil pipe screwed onto will need to be removed as well before the cylinders will lift off. They have a lip that catches on it.
 
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