Looking to replace rear shocks.

[willis]

I've got used Triumph T100 shocks on both my XS's. They run 13 1/4 eye to eye and only require modifying the bottom bushing.

HERE is my thread on my current 77 build that shows how I modified the bushings. I score both pairs on Ebay for $40 to my door each time.

And here is my ‘75 with T100 shocks

 

[RC4MAN]

What surprises me is that so few list eye to eye length or spring rate, particularly important to the application.

 

[5twins]

I usually clamp the fork legs on the caliper mounts. DO NOT, under any circumstances, clamp them on the round part. I also found a wrecked one on my buddy's '80 Special II, pinched oval. That lower wouldn't slide all the way onto the fork tube anymore.

For protecting the top of the fork leg during seal removal, I made up a simple little protector from aluminum angle. It drops right into the top of the fork leg and stays there all by itself .....

For prying the seal out, I rounded the tip off on a big old square shank screwdriver I had laying around .....

 

[jetmechmarty]

Also found these used Hagons: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255454723247. Asking to see the length

W650 shocks should be 13 inches.

 

[Raymond]

I think those Hagon W650 shocks on ebay are their cheaper range with pre-load adjustment only. If funds allow, better to have the adjustable damping.

 

[Sudonate91]

I think those Hagon W650 shocks on ebay are their cheaper range with pre-load adjustment only. If funds allow, better to have the adjustable damping.

Ah good to know. I mostly like them because price and they are all chrome. The mikexs ones are black/chrome which deviates from the stock look.

 

[jetmechmarty]

The mikexs ones are black/chrome which deviates from the stock look.

My OEM KYB shocks have black bodies with chrome springs and bodies. I believe that's the case for the XS650 1980-83. Shocks are a wear item and the OEM usually uses something adequate and cheap. How cheap should depend upon the price point. There's no shame in aftermarket shocks. Good ones tend to be expensive.

 

[Sudonate91]

And then there is this: Progressive for a harley on ebay. $160 shipped. I imagine harleys are heavier bikes so its probably stiffer? According to the label it is a 412 (CHR) STRT 13.5" (STD). I imagine the STD means standard instead of heavy duty? Probably some other things im missing about 'em. Thoughts?

 

[Raymond]

harleys are heavier bikes so its probably stiffer?

If I had to guess, I'd say the springs will be much stiffer than you need.

 

[jetmechmarty]

And then there is this: Progressive for a harley on ebay. $160 shipped. I imagine harleys are heavier bikes so its probably stiffer? According to the label it is a 412 (CHR) STRT 13.5" (STD). I imagine the STD means standard instead of heavy duty? Probably some other things im missing about 'em. Thoughts?

412 Series will not fit. The chain guard interferes. 412 has a cover on the bottom. You can change springs on Progressive shocks, they just don't offer help with the correct choice. Last time I bought them, I had to buy springs twice. It was MMM at 650 Central who got me the right ones.

 

[5twins]

For your forks, you can buy new springs but a cheaper alternative is simply to add short pre-load spacers .....

The adjustable caps on your forks have 2 stiffer settings and each one adds 10mm of pre-load .....

But, even cranked down to the stiffest setting, I still found the stock springs a bit soft. So, I made up spacers a little longer than 20mm, the max pre-load the caps would give me. I started out with 1" spacers (about 25mm), but combined with the thickness of the washer you also must add, they proved a little too stiff. So, I shortened them to 13/16". Combined with the added washer, that gives me a total of about 23 or 24mm of additional pre-load, and that seems just right. So, for spacers, I'd recommend you make them somewhere in the 3/4" to 7/8" range.

You'll also want to use slightly more than the stock amount of oil. This helps a lot, greatly reducing the nose dive during braking. The stock oil amount is just under 6 ounces. Try 6.5 to 7 ounces.

One more thing - the forks get a lot of sludge build-up over time inside them. Since they don't really get that hot in operation, like a motor, just draining them really doesn't get all that junk out. You have to physically clean them, swab them out. To do that, I bent a small eye in the end of some 1/4" rod that I can thread a rag through, and I use it like a ram rod to clean out the lowers .....

 

[Sudonate91]

For your forks, you can buy new springs but a cheaper alternative is simply to add short pre-load spacers .....

(image)

The adjustable caps on your forks have 2 stiffer settings and each one adds 10mm of pre-load .....

(image)

But, even cranked down to the stiffest setting, I still found the stock springs a bit soft. So, I made up spacers a little longer than 20mm, the max pre-load the caps would give me. I started out with 1" spacers (about 25mm), but combined with the thickness of the washer you also must add, they proved a little too stiff. So, I shortened them to 13/16". Combined with the added washer, that gives me a total of about 23 or 24mm of additional pre-load, and that seems just right. So, for spacers, I'd recommend you make them somewhere in the 3/4" to 7/8" range.
(image)
You'll also want to use slightly more than the stock amount of oil. This helps a lot, greatly reducing the nose dive during braking. The stock oil amount is just under 6 ounces. Try 6.5 to 7 ounces.
(image)
One more thing - the forks get a lot of sludge build-up over time inside them. Since they don't really get that hot in operation, like a motor, just draining them really doesn't get all that junk out. You have to physically clean them, swab them out. To do that, I bent a small eye in the end of some 1/4" rod that I can thread a rag through, and I use it like a ram rod to clean out the lowers .....
(image)

Yeah right now my forks are so soft. Easily compressed just by leaning down on the handle bars. Im fairly confident all the oil is gone given the state of the old caliper being drenched. Did you make that spacer yourself? Is this something I could buy?

 

[jetmechmarty]

Did you make that spacer yourself? Is this something I could buy?

I made mine from aluminum pipe. I think PVC is good too.
My current location has a lot of crappy roads, so I find the compliant suspension fits.
Yes, low oil will my your forks bounce, maybe like a pogo stick if the level is low enough.

 

[5twins]

Yes, I made the spacers from some scrap tubing I had laying around. I know many use PVC pipe but I prefer metal. The tophat shaped washers were scrounged from older forks without the adjustable caps. I like the design, the way they center themselves on and in the top of the spring.

 

[Sudonate91]

I think those Hagon W650 shocks on ebay are their cheaper range with pre-load adjustment only. If funds allow, better to have the adjustable damping.

I ended up just getting them for $150. Hopefully the lack of adjustable damping doesnt bite me. They are 13 1/4 " also.

I made mine from aluminum pipe. I think PVC is good too.
My current location has a lot of crappy roads, so I find the compliant suspension fits.
Yes, low oil will my your forks bounce, maybe like a pogo stick if the level is low enough.

Good to know. I should be able to find some aluminum pipe somewhere.

 

[Sudonate91]

Yes, I made the spacers from some scrap tubing I had laying around. I know many use PVC pipe but I prefer metal. The tophat shaped washers were scrounged from older forks without the adjustable caps. I like the design, the way they center themselves on and in the top of the spring.

You don't need the hat type right? Just another washer for the top of the spacer?

 

[Raymond]

I ended up just getting them for $150. Hopefully the lack of adjustable damping doesnt bite me. They are 13 1/4 " also.

Should still be a noticeable improvement over old standard fitment!

 

[Sudonate91]

I also wanna redo my swing arm bushing. I see the copper ones are typically the way to go. I also see the ALL BALLS bearing kit on amazon for the same price (54$) as the copper ones. Any thoughts about those? To me the bearing kit would be best bang for buck since it comes with new shaft/sleeve, a new bushings, and new seals. Seems comparable to Bearing Kit - Swingarm - RD350 - RD400 - XS400 - XS650 on MikeXS but for half the price.

 

[jetmechmarty]

I also wanna redo my swing arm bushing. I see the copper ones are typically the way to go. I also see the ALL BALLS bearing kit on amazon for the same price (54$) as the copper ones. Any thoughts about those? To me the bearing kit would be best bang for buck since it comes with new shaft/sleeve, a new bushings, and new seals. Seems comparable to Bearing Kit - Swingarm - RD350 - RD400 - XS400 - XS650 on MikeXS but for half the price.

Search on here. Just say NO to All Balls bearing kit.
All covered here:
https://www.xs650.com/threads/swingarm-play-pivot-bolt-damage.61232/
Other threads have similar info.

 

[5twins]

Yes, you can just use a plain washer of some sort, I just like those special ones. Just be sure to use something, especially if you use PVC pipe. the springs would chew it up without a washer in there.

13 1/4" long shocks will be good. Personally, I run Koni 7610-1429's. They are 337mm long (about 13.27") and work well. I chose this Koni because it has an offset bottom eye. This helps provide more clearance for the chain guard .....