Looking to replace rear shocks.

It looks like there are differing chain guards, some with shock relief notches and some without, or at least some with larger ones than others.
 
Here is a great article from the tech section , written by @YamadudeXS650C
https://www.xs650.com/threads/installing-bronze-swingarm-bushings-and-setting-sideplay.51077/

Here is how I install swing arm bushings, no heating , no freezing, just get yourself a length of 1/2” all thread from the home center about 6 fender washers and two 1/2” nuts. Grease everything , the bushings, the inside of the swing arm, and the all thread. And just crank ‘em in. One side at a time. Take your time to get them started straight, after that they’ll go right in.

BC9B108E-23F8-4C9E-ABA5-AF3A1947893D.jpeg


( Excerpt from a write up I did)
I had a couple of false starts because the bushing kept trying to get cockeyed and go in crooked, but once I got it started, it just wound right in. After reading Yamadudes post, and seeing that he struggled with trying to do both sides simultaneously, I did this one side at a time. It cranked in actually pretty easy with no problems.
Then I just repeated the process for the other side.
I would also like to thank Jim here for a good tip, he told me that before these bushings seat fully, to check for any bronze shavings getting between the bushing collar and the swing arm and preventing a tight fit. I didn’t see it at first. But I did what Jim recommended and on the second one, it had indeed shaved a little off and it was stuck in the grease and it would’ve done exactly what he warned me of. A quick wipe with a rag , shavings are gone and I finished cranking it home.
 
Here is how I install swing arm bushings, no heating , no freezing, just get yourself a length of 1/2” all thread from the home center about 6 fender washers and two 1/2” nuts. Grease everything , the bushings, the inside of the swing arm, and the all thread. And just crank ‘em in. One side at a time.

One of the variables we are up against in this installation is the machining tolerances of the parts we are buying, and in my experience these tolerances vary from year to year, and sometimes within a given year. Such differences can produce an easy go-in for some, and a considerable effort for others. As for the procedure I reported (and referenced by Bob) in 2017, check out the variation in tolerance of the bushings I purchased at that time from MikesXS:


"I did some measuring of dimensions to see exactly what I had:

The proper, expected dimensions of this bushing are:

Length 40mm
ID 22mm
OD 28mm
Collar thickness 2.6mm
Collar OD 34mm

Using a new, calibrated Fowler, I got these measures at 65 degrees F:

bushing-001-jpg.111150



Bushing One:
Length 40.06 mm
ID 22.03 mm
OD 28.04 mm
Collar thickness 2.50 mm
Collar OD 34.07 mm

Bushing Two:
Length 40.03 mm
ID 22.05 mm
OD 28.05 mm
Collar thickness 2.60 mm
Collar OD 34.10 mm


I noted the largest variations in bold.


.
.
 
I think those Hagon W650 shocks on ebay are their cheaper range with pre-load adjustment only. If funds allow, better to have the adjustable damping.
Also be aware the budget range Hagons are not repairable once they leak, according to the factory.
That being said, it's possible that somebody with the right tools could fix them, but if you weren't doing it yourself it would be hard to justify the cost of sending out a pair of cheap shocks.
 
@Sudonate91 FWIW my triumph takeoffs are 14" eye to eye. I'm getting racetech gs3 rears for mine and these shocks are just sitting off to the side. I ran without a chain guard so can't comment on that. If you're interested in trying sizes/thickness of shock body I'd let them go for $20 plus whatever actual shipping is. More than likely $40 all in. If this interests you let me know.
hey Jesse, if the offer is still good, i could use some replacement shocks for my xs, and im sure i want your shocks lol
 
Re. brass swingarm bushings, do some reading on fitment. Brass bushings usually have thicker flanges than OE plastic. The pivot tube has to clear the bushings to lock against the steel thrust plates ("grease seals"). Otherwise the swingarm will lock up before you apply anything near spec torque. I like to allow around .006". Measure twice, cut once. Before assembly I use a 12" caliper to measure the width of the swingarm, then add the thicknesses of the flanges. Then measure the length of the pivot tube. If material has to be removed to let the tube clear, take it off the swingarm with a flat file; the steel is soft enough to work. Clamp the swingarm in a vise, work both sides a little at a time, and measure often. There are other good ways to get 'er done posted here, seek and you will find.
 
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BTW I've ordered a pair of Hagons with adjustable damping through Bellacorse for use while I get my Works Performance shocks rebuilt, which will take some time. Only 3 preload settings, so I'll probably have to shim to get sag where I want it. At $400 for the pair they're the most bang for the buck I could find. Hagon asked the right questions in the order process. Ikon has cheapened their product without lowering their prices, their original repop Koni double clickers are no longer on offer. In my one experience a YSS monoshock left much to be desired, especially at the price point, and their prices have jumped since then.
 
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BTW I've ordered a pair of Hagons with adjustable damping through Bellacorse for use while I get my Works Performance shocks rebuilt, which will take some time. Only 3 preload settings, so I'll probably have to shim to get sag where I want it. At $400 for the pair they're the most bang for the buck I could find. Hagon asked the right questions in the order process. Ikon has cheapened their product without lowering their prices, their oeriginal repop Koni double clickers are no longer on offer. In my one experience a YSS monoshock left much to be desired, especially at the price point, and their prices have jumped since then.

Do you have a link to the Works Performance shocks your using? I was looking at Racetech GS3 IFP and would love other options
 
The Works Performance shocks I'm using were custom made years ago by the original company, which closed after the founder's death. It's been revived by the founder's daughter. Damping is fixed but valving is perfect; I described how (spirited riding) and where (bumpy back roads and secondary highways) the bike would be used, with bike weight and rider weight, and Works nailed it. The revived company's addie is https://www.worxshocks.com
 
The Works Performance shocks I'm using were custom made years ago by the original company, which closed after the founder's death. It's been revived by the founder's daughter. Damping is fixed but valving is perfect; I described how (spirited riding) and where (bumpy back roads and secondary highways) the bike would be used, with bike weight and rider weight, and Works nailed it. The revived company's addie is https://www.worxshocks.com
We’re they costly?
 
Around $650 for the pair in 2005 IIRC; cost about the same as the Ohlins double clicker monoshock I bought for my SV650 Suzuki at around the same time.
 
A tip I poached from @gggGary , to remove those really stuck fork seals, I’ve seen a lot of damage done by guys prying with screwdrivers. If you have a small tire iron, clamp it in a vise and pry against it, like so,
View attachment 210563

And a word of caution, if you clamp your lower fork leg in a vise to work on it, use blocks of wood and don’t clamp it tight, I had to buy a set of replacement forks from a wrecker, for my XS2, because someone had mashed the lower legs in a vise and made them egg shaped, so bad that the upper fork legs were getting stuck internally.
This was super helpful!!! Worked like a charm. I had been prying at my seal for over 30 minutes before I saw this.
 
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