Magura Clutch Lever and Aluminum pushrod

GLJ

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A while back on another post I mentioned that I was going to use a Magura clutch lever assembly on my XS2. I also mentioned that the Magura had more cable travel. I knew it would increase cable movement, but had not really checked to see how much.
Since the Magura I had is going back on my X75 I ordered a new one. The only new ones I could find were split perches. Did find some old style ones on E-Bay that people thought were worth a fortune. I ordered a split perch like this one. Best price I could find.
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In the other post 2M had mentioned a problem with our cables being a larger diameter than the Magura feral. Little more research and found this. Just what is needed to use a Magura assy on a 650.
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The only good clutch cable I have is on my bike, did not want to test with a worn out one so I ordered a new Motion Pro cable. Never hurts to have a spare.
Time for testing. 3 clutch lever assemblies. New split perch Magura, old style Magura and a not worn much Yamaha. Going to check them using a short arm actuator and a long arm actuator. Also used the same grip on the handle bars for all the tests.
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The test setup. Added a kick stand return spring to make sure the arms returned as far as the could.
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Results of test below. Definite travel difference.
Short Arm Long Arm
Stock lever .095 .067
Old style Magura .120 .082
New split perch Magura .132 .092

The Magura could help if you are having disengagement problems with your clutch and you are sure everything is set up correctly. I'm going to experiment next riding season with the short arm verses the long arm worms using the split perch.
There is one disadvantage with the lever, it sits farther away from the handlebars than a stock lever. That's what gives it more cable travel. My hands are big enough it should not be a problem. I'm also curious if .132 of push rod travel is more than the clutch can handle. I put it on my bike and it feels OK with the short arm worm that is in the cover. Doesn't feel like it's coil binding, but I have not ridden it yet.
 
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What you'll probably need to check for is this .....

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There's not much room under the cover between it and the pressure plate. Yes, some additional travel of the pushrod and more plate separation would be a good thing, but there's not much room available to use for that.

There is a 3rd version of the worm, one with the cable anchor point about midway between the long and short versions. If the short arm one gives too hard a pull, which it might, this "middle" arm might be a good compromise .....

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There's also the arm from an XS400. It pretty much matches the 650's "middle" arm in length but it steps down instead of up. This configuration is supposed to rotate better without binding .....

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Also, A later Yamaha clutch lever does have that Magura dog leg shape and is longer than the straighter shorter ? Lever you show there ?
I too have switched to the straight and short version out of necessity to clear the bar end mirror casting on my 79.
Was choosing that "more travel" actuator over the 79 stocker but that is also a yet determined decision.
But that Dog leg, long Yamaha lever may change the results you found too.
-R
 

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out of necessity to clear the bar end mirror casting
Common thing we did on our dirt bikes was to shorten the lever so it did not extend past the end of the handlebars. Nothing worse than having a tree apply your front brake or clutch as you went between them. Plus removing the ball at the end would let vines slip off easier.
 
You bought those Magura parts for a very reasonable price. I always use Magura stuff. On my Scrambler build I used the clutch and front brake levers & perches, rubber covers, grips, 314 throttle assy and Motion Pro cables. The grips are hard and absorb no vibration whatsoever. Love em.:thumbsup:
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You bought those Magura parts for a very reasonable price. I always use Magura stuff. On my Scrambler build I used the clutch and front brake levers & perches, rubber covers, grips, 314 throttle assy and Motion Pro cables. The grips are hard and absorb no vibration whatsoever. Love em.:thumbsup:
View attachment 158945
Nice bike. Always liked the straight pull Magure throttle. Change my X75 to one a long time ago, lot easier and cleaner throttle cable routing.
Which arm are you using on your clutch worm?
 
Update on the lever. I put 30 smiles on the bike with the short arm worm. It worked fine. No rubbing noise from the clutch cover. Last weekend I put a long arm worm on it and rode it 25 smiles. Liked that even better. Clutch easier to pull. I did notice when I got home I had extra free-play at the lever. Nothing unusual. Clutch still worked fine. The next morning after motor cooled down it was back to the original amount of free play. My bike has always done that. On a real hot day I would have to adjust the cable at the lever so I could stop and not have the bike try to creep forward. I think the extra throw of the Magura lever could lessen the need to readjust.

I remembered 2M had a thread about that problem. So I looked it up and read it a few times. I thought it was a great idea.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-clutch-pushrod-experiment-tidbits.32267/
Long story short I found some 6061AL 5/16th rod on Amazon that I could get in a few days. Ordered and it showed up this morning. A little lath time and a new rod was born. Going to give it a try. Wanted to try it out today but it's snowing.:(
I was able to find 7071AL in 8mm. Ordered 1 piece, it's ten times more expensive than the 6061AL but as 2M found out it will last a lot longer. It's coming from China so who knows when it will get here.


upload_2020-3-14_15-45-15.png
 
You bought those Magura parts for a very reasonable price. I always use Magura stuff. On my Scrambler build I used the clutch and front brake levers & perches, rubber covers, grips, 314 throttle assy and Motion Pro cables. The grips are hard and absorb no vibration whatsoever. Love em.:thumbsup:
View attachment 158945
Halfmile, dig the scrambler bike...any more pics and back story? Swingarm and front drum from what bike?
Also, any concerns with modern fuel and the glass champion tank?
 
Update on the Magura clutch lever and aluminum clutch push rod.
First the Magura lever assembly. Works very well. Has more cable travel than a stock lever. It with the long arm worm gives the push rod plenty of travel. Pull is just fine to me. No problems with clutch dragging at stop lights.
The aluminum push rod makes a huge difference. Very minimal change in cable free play between a cold engine and a hot engine. Set the adjusting screw at the worm at 3/16 of a turn from touching, adjust cable at lever and you are done. I used to get a lot of extra free play when the motor warmed up. Now very little. I like it.
The first aluminum rod I made was out of 5/16 6061AL. Ran it for 1000 miles and checked it for wear. Not bad it had a little wear where the seal and bushing ride. During the time I was testing it I had ordered 1 piece of 8mm 7075AL from China. Took almost 2 months to get to me. Made a push rod out of it. Went to install and it wouldn't fit. It measured .619 instead of .615. F@CK Remembered 2M had posted a link where he found some 8mm 7075AL, found the link and ordered some. Got to me in less than a week. It's even the right size and fits. Made a push rod and installed. I only have 600 smiles on it. Checked it the other day and looks good. Plus it works great.
Last winter I sent Mailman a couple of the 6161AL pushrods to test. He had the same results I had.
If anybody's wants one I they are for sale for $17.50 +shipping. If interested PM me.
Edit: The ones for sale are 8mm 7075AL
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One piece clutch push rod review,

Greg sent me two of these , one piece tempered 6061 aluminum , clutch push rods for testing purposes in my two 650’s. The idea is that being aluminum, like the engine cases, they will expand and contract at the same rate , thereby eliminating the need to readjust your clutch lever free play while you’re out riding and your motor heats up. My bikes have always required at least one adjustment , sometimes two, if I’m out on a longer ride.


So first off, the push rods are nicely made and extremely light weight. They also have dimpled recesses on each end so that they will seat solidly against the ball bearings in the clutch pack and the clutch actuator worm. This helps to keep the rod from wobbling around and wallowing out your clutch push rod seal. ( according to XS John in the XS John mods tech article )

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After the first hundred miles I pulled the cover off to see how it was holding up.

It was just fine, but I noticed a small oil leak coming from the push rod seal. The aluminum rod is a few thousands smaller in diameter than the OEM steel rod and I attributed the leak to the fact that the seal is older and maybe not as pliable as it once was.

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After 600 miles I pulled the cover for another look. It still looks good, there are some shiny spots where the rod passes through the case and seal, but you can’t feel it when you run your fingernail across it.

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And the oil leak has also stopped!
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I am running this rod in both of my bikes and have no leaks at the seal.

I have been extremely happy with the performance of these rods. It took me a couple of rides to find the ideal adjustment point, but once I did, I could just forget about it. The thermal expansion is negligible and it no longer requires an ,on the fly , adjustment when I’m out riding.

I think this is a definite improvement over stock! :)
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Now, if we could just find an abrasion resistant coating for these things...
Hmm. I have no direct experience with this, but I remember there being some anodizing that deposits thin film (PTFE) teflon onto the substrate. Think this stuff gets used in the firearms industry with some frequency. Might increase the overall diameter by .001-.002, but could be worth it for not only the lubricity but also abrasion resistance.
 
Hmm. I have no direct experience with this, but I remember there being some anodizing that deposits thin film (PTFE) teflon onto the substrate. Think this stuff gets used in the firearms industry with some frequency. Might increase the overall diameter by .001-.002, but could be worth it for not only the lubricity but also abrasion resistance.
Gives me an idea.
 
You bought those Magura parts for a very reasonable price. I always use Magura stuff. On my Scrambler build I used the clutch and front brake levers & perches, rubber covers, grips, 314 throttle assy and Motion Pro cables. The grips are hard and absorb no vibration whatsoever. Love em.:thumbsup:
View attachment 158945
Wow just saw this. Gorgeous bike!
 
Update on the Magura clutch lever and aluminum clutch push rod.
First the Magura lever assembly. Works very well. Has more cable travel than a stock lever. It with the long arm worm gives the push rod plenty of travel. Pull is just fine to me. No problems with clutch dragging at stop lights.
The aluminum push rod makes a huge difference. Very minimal change in cable free play between a cold engine and a hot engine. Set the adjusting screw at the worm at 3/16 of a turn from touching, adjust cable at lever and you are done. I used to get a lot of extra free play when the motor warmed up. Now very little. I like it.
The first aluminum rod I made was out of 5/16 6061AL. Ran it for 1000 miles and checked it for wear. Not bad it had a little wear where the seal and bushing ride. During the time I was testing it I had ordered 1 piece of 8mm 7075AL from China. Took almost 2 months to get to me. Made a push rod out of it. Went to install and it wouldn't fit. It measured .619 instead of .615. F@CK Remembered 2M had posted a link where he found some 8mm 7075AL, found the link and ordered some. Got to me in less than a week. It's even the right size and fits. Made a push rod and installed. I only have 600 smiles on it. Checked it the other day and looks good. Plus it works great.
Last winter I sent Mailman a couple of the 6161AL pushrods to test. He had the same results I had.
If anybody's wants one I they are for sale for $17.50 +shipping. If interested PM me.
Edit: The ones for sale are 8mm 7075AL
View attachment 169952
Pm sent.
 
Do the Magura levers only come is natural aluminum finish or can you get them in black like the perch? Thx
 
I didn't realize the lever at the handle bar varied travel that much. I don't really have clutch problems. I am just going to set it tight cold this season.
My question tho. I have put on the Kawasaki lever for much stronger bigger longer lasting pivot point. I haven't noticed difference either way. I wonder if it was measured tho? I'll do a comparison when I get time. Can't wait for nice weather!
 
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