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Magura Clutch Lever and Aluminum pushrod
- Thread starter GLJ
- Start date
No, just checked the amount of pushrod movement. The cable travel had to increase. How much I don't know.
Well more than a year later I got around to measuring my clutch pushrod travel. Disappointing results but sure explains why neutral is super difficult to find. I have a one piece aluminum pushrod and the short arm worm assembly, so my aftermarket lever / perch assembly is the responsible culprit. I’m going to order a Magura today and will report the new travel stats. Right now I’m only getting about .059” of travel!
Rode Madness a few daze ago in stop and go traffic in Madison temp was 90F+
Stock perch, lever is matched well to it, but chromed so not sure of it's provenance.
New shoulder bolt. think the lever has been bushed. Motion pro cable. some stock worm lever.
Can't even tell you what rod is in there. Bushing has never been changed on my watch 12K+ miles
8 plate ippytatoo conversion
Point is (heh, heh) Even hot in traffic I could easily get neutral at any time, even after sitting at a light, clutch in "for a while" click neutral. Can't say all my bikes are that easy but... with everything just right it will work.
Stock perch, lever is matched well to it, but chromed so not sure of it's provenance.
New shoulder bolt. think the lever has been bushed. Motion pro cable. some stock worm lever.
Can't even tell you what rod is in there. Bushing has never been changed on my watch 12K+ miles
8 plate ippytatoo conversion
Point is (heh, heh) Even hot in traffic I could easily get neutral at any time, even after sitting at a light, clutch in "for a while" click neutral. Can't say all my bikes are that easy but... with everything just right it will work.
Just received my new Magura clutch lever and perch today. Slapped it on quickly (not test ridden yet) and noticed several things:
1. Clutch pull is much harder than before. Cruising will be ok but stop and go traffic will be a workout.
2. Haven’t hooked up my dial indicator yet but just visually, lots more travel! I’ll bet 2x more.
3. Because of my handlebars, gauges and perch design, the clutch cable lays right acroSS the face of the Speedo. I’ll post pictures tomorrow.
4. Lever does stock out quite far from the bars. I don’t have big hands but think it will be manageable.
*** Due to the hard clutch pull, I’ll most likely try a longer arm worm gear.
I’m expecting great plate separation now and maybe I may find the elusive “neutral”.
Stay tuned for picks and measurements.
1. Clutch pull is much harder than before. Cruising will be ok but stop and go traffic will be a workout.
2. Haven’t hooked up my dial indicator yet but just visually, lots more travel! I’ll bet 2x more.
3. Because of my handlebars, gauges and perch design, the clutch cable lays right acroSS the face of the Speedo. I’ll post pictures tomorrow.
4. Lever does stock out quite far from the bars. I don’t have big hands but think it will be manageable.
*** Due to the hard clutch pull, I’ll most likely try a longer arm worm gear.
I’m expecting great plate separation now and maybe I may find the elusive “neutral”.
Stay tuned for picks and measurements.
Anyone tried these bits? Looks like this kit is sold by XS650DIRECT too.
https://yambits.co.uk/xs650-clutch-worm-mechanism-kit-p-21207.html
https://yambits.co.uk/xs650-clutch-worm-mechanism-kit-p-21207.html
There's a bit of a problem with that aftermarket replacement worm assembly - the angle of the "swirl" differs slightly from stock. This makes clutch action a little easier but doesn't give as much travel. Also, you can't mix and match any of those new parts with old ones, they won't "mate" together because of the different angles.
My advice would be to watch eBay for an XS400 "1L9" worm assembly. See post #65 here for details on the install and benefits .....
https://www.xs650.com/threads/200-special.51454/page-4
My advice would be to watch eBay for an XS400 "1L9" worm assembly. See post #65 here for details on the install and benefits .....
https://www.xs650.com/threads/200-special.51454/page-4
I think I have a 1L9. But isn’t that a short arm too?
It's actually the middle length, just like the late 650 ones with the hole drilled closer to the center (on the right below) .....
This length is the best compromise for easy lever pull and adequate pushrod travel. The very early ones were shorter and gave more pushrod travel but at the expense of a hard lever pull. The mid prodution ones with the longest distance from center to cable anchor gave easier lever pull but at the expense of less pushrod travel.
This length is the best compromise for easy lever pull and adequate pushrod travel. The very early ones were shorter and gave more pushrod travel but at the expense of a hard lever pull. The mid prodution ones with the longest distance from center to cable anchor gave easier lever pull but at the expense of less pushrod travel.
Great, thanks, I’ll check out the spare that I have.
some reading
https://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-clutch-worm-actuator-experiment-tidbits.31554/
https://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-clutch-pushrod-experiment-tidbits.32267/
@TwoManyXS1Bs is the master of all things clutch, we are indebted for his work....
https://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-clutch-worm-actuator-experiment-tidbits.31554/
https://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-clutch-pushrod-experiment-tidbits.32267/
@TwoManyXS1Bs is the master of all things clutch, we are indebted for his work....
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Thx gggGary, I’ll read that this weekend.
5T, I put in the 1L9 lever assembly and found the lever portion is “clocked” differently in relation to the flights on the worm. If I place it in one position (steel worm is flush with female plastic worm), the clutch cable has about 1/2” too much slack (can be adjusted out at the lever) and if positioned further counterclockwise, the worm assembly sits too deep in the female plastic worm. So deep in fact that the lock nut is barely accessible with a wrench. I’m thinking I should position it with the excessive cable slack and deal with that, just with the adjuster or I recall reading someone had made a spacer for the cable.
Perhaps the answer is in the reading links proved by gggGary?
I’ll try to post pics.
5T, I put in the 1L9 lever assembly and found the lever portion is “clocked” differently in relation to the flights on the worm. If I place it in one position (steel worm is flush with female plastic worm), the clutch cable has about 1/2” too much slack (can be adjusted out at the lever) and if positioned further counterclockwise, the worm assembly sits too deep in the female plastic worm. So deep in fact that the lock nut is barely accessible with a wrench. I’m thinking I should position it with the excessive cable slack and deal with that, just with the adjuster or I recall reading someone had made a spacer for the cable.
Perhaps the answer is in the reading links proved by gggGary?
I’ll try to post pics.
Yes, the 1L9 assembly is clocked a little differently than the 650 one. You need to sand down the female plastic part a little to re-clock it. Details are in that link I gave you. Here's a comparison shot. The XS500 worm is clocked the same as the 1L9 was before modification. The mod re-clocks it about half way between where it was stock and where the 650 one is .....
This is enough to take up that extra cable slack you encountered.
This is enough to take up that extra cable slack you encountered.
Ok thanks. I put it back together already lol but can take it apart again
I guess I should read first and ask later.
Sanded the part to 21mm as per 5T. Will test fit later.
Edit: sanded the female part down and the cable slack issues have been addressed. Thanks 5T!
. Now I just need to test the bike with the new lever(s). It still feels like a harder pull than my old set up, but if my clutch “concerns” have been addressed it will be worth it.
I guess I should read first and ask later.Sanded the part to 21mm as per 5T. Will test fit later.
Edit: sanded the female part down and the cable slack issues have been addressed. Thanks 5T!
. Now I just need to test the bike with the new lever(s). It still feels like a harder pull than my old set up, but if my clutch “concerns” have been addressed it will be worth it.
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My handle bars are closer to straight and the Magura perch puts the clutch cable in a nasty position, creating a fairly tight bend. I believe this is contributing to the hard pull. I don’t think changing cable length will help. I might need to switch handle bars. Even after a short ride my left hand was a bit sore. Clutch disengagement was better but not as good as I was hoping for. Guess after addressing the handlebar swap I’ll have to live with the clutch. I suppose I could wimp out and put stock springs back in too?
I know I recommend them time and time again, but you may want to try the Euro bar bend. The way they droop down slightly on the ends lets you arch the clutch cable up over the ignition switch in a pretty gentle bend .....
Also be sure the cable is well lubed. I oil mine pretty much every season.
Also be sure the cable is well lubed. I oil mine pretty much every season.
I was thinking I should try the Euro bars. Just for interests sake I unbolted the handle bars and straightened the cable out and tried the clutch. Still a hard pull. I’Il try lubing the cable again. It’s nearly new but was installed last year. Here’s some pics of my bars / cable / clutch lever. This is the best routing I could come up with. It’s a real nasty bend at the head on a hard right turn.
You have to oil a new cable, they don't come with much lube at all in them. If you didn't do that, it could be contributing to your problem. But yes, you do have some pretty bad bends there. You also look to be running the cable pretty high up along the steering neck. I run mine much lower .....
