Bob is so giddy about his new purchase that he's talking French !
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Mailman’s XS2 a full on restoration
- Thread starter Mailman
- Start date
Oui Oui!
Man I forgot just how much content is archived on The XScafe!
Not only did I get a parts manual, but I got a factory service manual. An assembly manual, an owners manual, and wiring diagrams!
Thanks for suggesting that 5 Twins!
Should have been the oil sump strainer
Here’s a few more photos from my initial inspection.
When I first went to look at the bike I thought it actually might have been a road worthy bike and I could ride it home ( less than 20 miles )
Yeah I soon realized that wasn’t happening.
The chrome on the bike is all in very good shape with no rust. Here I chose a couple spots and just took some Windex and paper towels. You can see before and after.
Those are chromed steel wheels, not aluminum.
The underside of the mufflers are not rusted out and are structurally sound.
Rear drum is very clean.
Can’t recall if I’ve mentioned this, the front brake doesn’t work, not even a little. Master cylinder is leaking, it’ll be a total overhaul top to bottom. As well as the rear drum.
The clear coat shouldn’t be too hard to remove, it’s literally curling off the cases.
Right now I’ve been thrashing away on my gas tank. It was completely unusable when I got the bike. Rust never sleeps! Cue Neil Young!
This will be the subject of its own soon. But I’m working to alleviate this rust situation.
“It’s better to burn out, than fade away!”
When I first went to look at the bike I thought it actually might have been a road worthy bike and I could ride it home ( less than 20 miles )
Yeah I soon realized that wasn’t happening.
The chrome on the bike is all in very good shape with no rust. Here I chose a couple spots and just took some Windex and paper towels. You can see before and after.
Those are chromed steel wheels, not aluminum.
The underside of the mufflers are not rusted out and are structurally sound.
Rear drum is very clean.
Can’t recall if I’ve mentioned this, the front brake doesn’t work, not even a little. Master cylinder is leaking, it’ll be a total overhaul top to bottom. As well as the rear drum.
The clear coat shouldn’t be too hard to remove, it’s literally curling off the cases.
Right now I’ve been thrashing away on my gas tank. It was completely unusable when I got the bike. Rust never sleeps! Cue Neil Young!
This will be the subject of its own soon. But I’m working to alleviate this rust situation.
“It’s better to burn out, than fade away!”
I'd go ahead and check the sun strainer too.
I bet it ain't been checked since the bike was new....
Still no showstoppers.....
No wonder everyone stores their old airplanes in Arizona!!
No wonder everyone stores their old airplanes in Arizona!!
PS - the tank tumbler I used on my XS750 tank for the Cafe bike fixed up rust like that in a jiffy.
Basically, a litre or two of water and a handful of aquarium gravel - and 24 hours later, clean as a whistle (the muck had to be emptied out a couple of times during the process and new water and gravel put in).
For those who missed it - a tank tumbler is a machine that rotates and revolves a bike fuel tank - think “portable cement mixer”. Apparently, the same results can be achieved with a handful of wood screws or 1/4-20 UNC nuts.
In my research on this - one guy did the same thing by wrapping his tank in an old sleeping bag and sticking it into a clothes dryer set on “cold” for a number of hours.
Basically, a litre or two of water and a handful of aquarium gravel - and 24 hours later, clean as a whistle (the muck had to be emptied out a couple of times during the process and new water and gravel put in).
For those who missed it - a tank tumbler is a machine that rotates and revolves a bike fuel tank - think “portable cement mixer”. Apparently, the same results can be achieved with a handful of wood screws or 1/4-20 UNC nuts.
In my research on this - one guy did the same thing by wrapping his tank in an old sleeping bag and sticking it into a clothes dryer set on “cold” for a number of hours.
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Believe me , I was thinking about your slick tumbler today!
XS650D
XS650 Junkie
CanadianTire here in Ontario sells a product that u just pour in tank and leave it in for a few days.
It will remove and dissolve every bit of rust until theres nothing left with no rocks ect needed.
I used it on my last xs and it worked as advertised.Amazing stuff (Clear liquid) no toxic fumes either!
If your interested I can will look for the Name and repost.Im sure its available in the US.
It will remove and dissolve every bit of rust until theres nothing left with no rocks ect needed.
I used it on my last xs and it worked as advertised.Amazing stuff (Clear liquid) no toxic fumes either!
If your interested I can will look for the Name and repost.Im sure its available in the US.
Would it be called white vinegar?
XS650D
XS650 Junkie
Its called Metal Rescue Rust Remover. I tried vinegar before and didn't do much
I've used it on several tanks with good results. Lucky me, if for no other reason than the cost difference.
I have done the clothes drier method. Works great along with metal restore. Just dont use the heat setting,fluff only. And plug the holes with rubber stoppers.
The chrome is in very good shape. Those pipes appear to be in great shape
I’ve been wondering about something and I thought I’d throw this out there.
Everything on this bike that turns rotates or swivels feels gummed up and sticky. The bike doesn’t like to roll, the steering head resists turning. It feels like everything is packed in stale petrified grease. That stuff doesn’t concern me because I will be replacing or cleaning and repacking all the bearings. Here’s my question, I’m thinking that the inside of the engine has to be gummed up with gunk too. Has anyone used an oil additive to try and scrub up and dissolve old oil buildup? I know it probably wouldn’t be good for the friction plates of the clutch, but I’m inclined to put new ones in anyway. Like some of these products?
Everything on this bike that turns rotates or swivels feels gummed up and sticky. The bike doesn’t like to roll, the steering head resists turning. It feels like everything is packed in stale petrified grease. That stuff doesn’t concern me because I will be replacing or cleaning and repacking all the bearings. Here’s my question, I’m thinking that the inside of the engine has to be gummed up with gunk too. Has anyone used an oil additive to try and scrub up and dissolve old oil buildup? I know it probably wouldn’t be good for the friction plates of the clutch, but I’m inclined to put new ones in anyway. Like some of these products?
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Well, if you want an endorsement of sorts.... Lycoming Aircraft Engines and the FAA only approve one additive for their engines.... Marvel Mystery Oil.
Fwiw Bob, I wouldn't expect your engine to be that bad on the inside. Most gunk comes from not doing regular oil changes. With your low miles... how many could they have missed?
Fwiw Bob, I wouldn't expect your engine to be that bad on the inside. Most gunk comes from not doing regular oil changes. With your low miles... how many could they have missed?
Yup - I agree with Jim. As far as I can tell, a lot of the other additives are actually petroleum distillates that closely approximate naptha.
Marvel Mystery Oil, however, does have a good reputation as a useful antidote to gummy stuff in engines.
Marvel Mystery Oil, however, does have a good reputation as a useful antidote to gummy stuff in engines.
I use Marvel for my guns, air tools, door hinges.... you name it.
I think any sludge in the oil has most likely settled to the bottom of the cases. I would do a couple quick oil changes with some cheap oil, maybe even 10-40 instead of our normal 20-50. The thinner oil would probably flush things better. I'd go to Walmart and get a couple of their brand 5 quart jugs. Each will give you 2 changes. And speaking of oil changes, you may want to look into the proper amount to use. In 1975, Yamaha reduced the amount of oil used by about 500cc due to complaints from owners about excess misting out the breather tube(s).
Having brought a number of barn finds back to life over the years, I haven't found internal engine parts to be gummed up with the exception of the clutch discs in my '76 XS. After repeated cleanings they still resisted pre-start clearing. Replacing them solved the issue 100% and shifting was smoother.
But the double oil change mentioned above sounds like a good idea.
But the double oil change mentioned above sounds like a good idea.
Yup - I concur with Dude and 5T.
On my '76 - the clutch was stuck solid when I first got her. I changed the oil and it was still dead stuck so I lashed the lever to the handlebar with a bungee and popped the bike into gear - and then start rocking it Fred Flintstone style on the garage floor. After about 20 minutes of that, the rear wheel began to turn and after a short session of more duck-walking around in the garage, she was freed right up. I replaced the clutch cable (all of the cables in fact) and haven't looked back on any sludge type issues. The oil comes out of the engine looking slightly discoloured, but not unduly icky and so I am calling it clean inside.
Now, the danged carb floats are a different matter....
On my '76 - the clutch was stuck solid when I first got her. I changed the oil and it was still dead stuck so I lashed the lever to the handlebar with a bungee and popped the bike into gear - and then start rocking it Fred Flintstone style on the garage floor. After about 20 minutes of that, the rear wheel began to turn and after a short session of more duck-walking around in the garage, she was freed right up. I replaced the clutch cable (all of the cables in fact) and haven't looked back on any sludge type issues. The oil comes out of the engine looking slightly discoloured, but not unduly icky and so I am calling it clean inside.
Now, the danged carb floats are a different matter....
