Marbles Motors failed gas tank liner, then screwed up the warranty repair!

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what a snowball of circumstance.
Good that you are so good at doing the work now
:thumbsup:
 
Good advice Doug. I suppose I'll have to address it sooner or later - minor rust spots at the moment. Like Bob, I would have found a "reputable" company and paid them to do it 'cause I want it right. I feel the only way to get that may be to do it yourself.
Cheers
 
Good advice Doug. I suppose I'll have to address it sooner or later - minor rust spots at the moment. Like Bob, I would have found a "reputable" company and paid them to do it 'cause I want it right. I feel the only way to get that may be to do it yourself.
Cheers
If you can source Metal Rescue, Evaporust, or some other chelating agent where you are, that's all you need to remove any small rust spots. These products won't etch the good metal.
 
David Toll Electrolysis is quite effective
This tank was pretty bad when I started. Bike sat for years in a damp environment.
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Could have stood another hour or two of action. But prolly put a thousand miles on it this summer.
You can guess what's going on with the green piece of strap. .;)
Just an old school manual battery charger is the power source, I ran it on the 10amp setting
Don't want to ruin bobs day but three, four hours of this before he sent in the tank and.....
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I've restored several tanks that were rusted inside, using such things as nuts and bolts and blue metal, shaking the tank around until the rust was gone (you know you have arms after this job), then blew it out with compressed air, followed by metho, followed by air, followed by petrol, followed by air again. Tanks were spotless after this, so I just put the tank back on the bike and filled with petrol, never ever had a problem with rust again. Rust only invades if there is water in the tank, keep the tank with petrol in it and put the cap on, the fumes and sloshing fuel keep the rust away.
 
This is probably the best place to post this.
Found on the Victory forum, top recommended for tank lining, removing/restoring failed OEM liners...

GTL Advantage
Motorcycle Gas Tank Rust Removal, Lining, Sealing.

http://gastanklining.com/index.html
Looks like they can provide a great service but at a high cost (for me anyway). Liner removal, installation and shipping would cost me close to $1000 Cdn., a bit too rich for me.
 
Good advice Doug. I suppose I'll have to address it sooner or later - minor rust spots at the moment. Like Bob, I would have found a "reputable" company and paid them to do it 'cause I want it right. I feel the only way to get that may be to do it yourself.
Cheers
My “new to me” ‘79 has some very minor surface rust spots. I was thinking about giving it the “vinegar” treatment or even fill it with evaporust for 24 hours. Just wondering how prone it will be to surface rusting after doing that? I usually keep my tanks full and only use ethanol free fuel.
 
I have made blocking plates and use them. You are removing rust particles....
Evaporust does seem to leave a protective coating on bare steel. Looks similar to a phosphate coating, a darker gray than bare steel. Several of the tools in dad's precision chest have gotten the treatment over the years and have stayed rust free.
 
My “new to me” ‘79 has some very minor surface rust spots. I was thinking about giving it the “vinegar” treatment or even fill it with evaporust for 24 hours. Just wondering how prone it will be to surface rusting after doing that? I usually keep my tanks full and only use ethanol free fuel.
If the spots are minor, I would not choose vinegar. I think Evaporust or Metal Rescue are a better choice as they won't etch the good metal. I'm assuming that you're not going to put a liner in the tank.
 
I've restored several tanks that were rusted inside, using such things as nuts and bolts and blue metal, shaking the tank around until the rust was gone (you know you have arms after this job), then blew it out with compressed air, followed by metho, followed by air, followed by petrol, followed by air again. Tanks were spotless after this, so I just put the tank back on the bike and filled with petrol, never ever had a problem with rust again. Rust only invades if there is water in the tank, keep the tank with petrol in it and put the cap on, the fumes and sloshing fuel keep the rust away.

In my XS2 restoration thread, I did exactly that, soaked in vinegar and put Sheetrock screws in it and shook, over and over. The thank had such thick scaly rust and deep pitting that I feared it would eventually leak at a seam and ruin a very expensive paint job. That was the reason I paid Marbles Motors ( pardon me while I spit :mad: ) to flush out the tank and seal it.
My “new to me” ‘79 has some very minor surface rust spots. I was thinking about giving it the “vinegar” treatment or even fill it with evaporust for 24 hours. Just wondering how prone it will be to surface rusting after doing that? I usually keep my tanks full and only use ethanol free fuel.

If the spots are minor, I would not choose vinegar. I think Evaporust or Metal Rescue are a better choice as they won't etch the good metal. I'm assuming that you're not going to put a liner in the tank.

I used a product ( on the new replacement tank ) that I bought on Amazon called Rust 911, it worked great , and is way more cost effective. One bottle of condensed rust remover makes 4 gallons. After rinsing the tank out with hot water it does want to flash rust, I took a suggestion from Jim, I mixed a small amount of acetone with motor oil and poured it in the tank, and rolled it around to coat the inside of the tank. The acetone evaporates and leaves an oil coating. ( I wound up with a little too much oil puddled in the bottom of the tank , but I just drained it out. )
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I've been using Evaporust successfully for many years. I've found that it works best when the tank and solution is about 75-80F.

Yes I forgot to mention that, it works better when it’s really warm. I mixed my Rust 911 with hot tap water, poured it in my tank, closed it up and wrapped it in a bunch of old towels to keep the heat in. It stayed warm for hours.
 
Hey; in my eternal quest for cheaper solutions, I suspect I may have tripped over the basis for the evaporust chemicals.
https://www.irohedp.com/two-uses-organic-phosphonic-acid-hedp/
I know crap about chemistry but this stuff sounds promising and tantalizingly similar to the touted uses of evaporust.
Anyone want to take the deep dive?
Trying to find some of this stuff in reasonable consumer quantities but it's typically sold in industrial scale, ie you want a 55 gallon barrel or a 235 gallon tote?
 
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