Maxed out at 3k

thecurryman

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Hey yall new to the forum and I've got a few questions. Not sure if xs400 talk is allowed here, I'm not really interested in talking about the engine as much as I am in talking about the bs34 carbs. Seeing as how the xs650 uses the same one I figured I'd ask.
Bought the bike a few months ago, PO claims running the bike pretty hard with no filters on carb, sucked something in there and some bits made it to the head. Instead of looking for valves he bought another head with camshaft and installed that. Literally just put it back together and did nothing else to it.
When I got it, I did valve timing and ignition timing. Fresh battery and some ether got it to turn over. Idle all over the place and some hanging idles so figured vacuum leak. Carbs off cleaned, new throttle shaft seals, diaphragms look good, new carb boots and gaskets. Broken mix screw tip in one of the carbs, got that removed very carefully, replaced with oem screws. Float bowl height set to 26mm from gasket surface. Bench synced the carbs and put them back on. Scored an H pipe and original airboxes off of ebay along with some emgo filters. Put all that on, cranked it up and set the idle as well as sync with manometer. Went for a ride and couldn't get it past 3k on the tach so I figured some tuning was needed. What follows is the log of combinations I tried. Carbs came with a 145 main and 42 pilot so already up a couple sizes.

Started, 145 main and 42 pilot, raised needle one clip position boggy and too rich ro run well. This also put the needle in the last clip position.

Returned needle to previous position, 147.5 main and 45 pilot, same thing too rich to run.

Swapped pilot out for 42 and left the larger main, runs but won't make it past 3k.


Did some plug chops and noticed that the lean condition was coming back to more stoic. 20240512_170628.jpg20240512_170622.jpg
Some things I noticed while I had the carbs off, left side carb needle is bent. Must have been from whatever got sucked into the carbs from the PO. Cant find one to save my life, not sure how much performance will be affected but I know it will wear eventually and that will cause issues. Thought maybe the auto advancer for the ignition timing was sticking so I looked into that and it moves freely and returns fine. Even advanced the timing to see if that would help but it didn't. Also of note, riding it when you start to crack the throttle in 1st its not firing evenly and smoothly and it's a little sluggish till it hits 2k and then it pulls pretty hard. Also when you are pushing at 3k, you can feel it pull a little and then stop, pull a little and then stop.

I've got the jets and needle to go bone stock if I have to but I dont think that needle is gonna work.
Truly scratching my head on this one and im at the point to where if you point at a rock and say look under that I will. Thanks in advance for any help you can send my way and also sorry for the long post.
 
Yeah I just did and they fall back down gradually. When I tested them I blew compressed air gently up the port and the slides would stay where ever they were provided you were consistent with the pressure. Didnt think to do it the other way
 
Since the heads been replaced I'd check to make sure the cam and crank alignment are correct. Even a tooth off can cause running issues.

Definitely replace that needle as I'm sure it's not helping much, and they're relatively cheap.
EDIT: realised you're having an issue finding one, what's the stamping on the one you have currently? If it's a 5z1, you might be able to make a y265 work with some shimming, but you loose some adjustment and the taper is slightly shorter. See this photo from 5twins
1000013388.jpg


Around 3k you should be hitting the needle operating section of the carb. With a bent needle I wonder if it's sticking causing the slide not to move up on its own.

I know nothing on the 400, but for the 650's, ignition advance happens at 3200-3500, if you've got a timing light I'd double check that it is Infact advancing.

Do a compression test as well with throttle wide open.

Clean the carbs really well, going through every single hole and making sure brake clean comes out of every hole with compressed air. (I use acetalyne torch tip cleaners to clean mine, just have to be careful you don't file the holes larger, they also make non abrasive ones that work good too, else a paperclip should suffice)

Brass float height for bs34 is ~27mm, plastic is 22mm.
 
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plus, don't forget to clean the fuel tank petcocks too. i know it is a pain but a partially blocked tap will affect the carbs. No matter how much carb cleaning is done. In fact it should be the 1st procedure, as part of the whole system. Jay
 
Since the heads been replaced I'd check to make sure the cam and crank alignment are correct. Even a tooth off can cause running issues
This is what I am thinking is the issue. The guys on the xs400 forum wouldn't respond when I asked about this particular thing and so I was curious. Compression checks out at 145 left 150 right. Bout the same hot or cold, readings taken with throttle and choke open.
Some things I've done since last posting.
Found a rebuild kit off of nichecycle that had a y264 needle in it. I've read that this is a close replacement for the 5z1 so 2 of those and I no longer have a bent needle.
New coils, New plug wires and caps. Thinking I am getting a weak spark but there is no change there.
Got a timing strobe and strobed it, times well at ignition and advances like it should. I believe the range for advance on the 400 is 2700 to 3400. Kinda hard to watch the tach and the strobe at the same time so I cant be for sure that it's advancing in the correct range. Only thing I can comment on here is that maybe the springs are weak and its advancing too soon?

I was leaning more on it being an electrical problem than a carb problem. Carbs have been slowly and meticulously cleaned with single strands of wire at times. Through every surface and orifice every time the carbs are off.
The reason I'm leaning more electrical than carbs is because its a problem that occurs no matter your throttle position. Cruising at 40mph ~3k with throttle slightly open and it'll stumble. Raw dog it wide open and it still happens. In 5th gear you can almost push it to 3.5krpm but no more unless you are on a hill. Only thing I've not touched in the ignition system is the points. So I took the old ones off and hit em with a little Emory to clean em up and reinstalled them. Gapped and timed, problem persists.

I've got some new points coming anyways so we'll see about that. Any advice on what to look for when I pop the cover off the head as far as timing is concerned? I know you can't comment directly but can you remove the covers on the 650 without taking the engine out of the frame?

I'm also gonna look into the petcock issue as well.
Thanks for all the pointers and suggestions. Was beginning to run out of things to check lol
 
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