MikesXS Electronic Ignition Kit

[rbirkey]

Thanks for the help. I've decided to document the current wiring on the 1977 Yamaha XS650, in hopes that it may help us all understand what I am dealing with and to find the cause of no spark. Remember that it experienced a direct short from the positive battery cable to the frame. I suspect that this may have fried one or more components... trying to verify this so I can order and replace whatever is needed.

This is my first attempt at the diagram. It's based on the one by jayel, but I traced over it in Adobe Illustrator, made modifications, and exported it as a PDF. It may yet need more corrections.

Notes:

• The "Pilot Box" is already gone and replaced with 2 gauges from MikesXS (speedo and tach).
• The "Light Checker" is gone
• The "Reserve Light Check" is gone
• The "Turn Signal Cancel" is gone
• Points and Condenser are gone

I have a few more questions

• I cannot find the "Diode" - it may already be gone. Is that okay?
• I can't find a "Brake Lining Sensor"- OK?
• Is it okay if I remove all the old wires and connectors in the harness of the items I am not using? To simplify.
• How would I bypass the MikesXS X-Charge unit (Electronic Advance) to test if the stator is ok? I still get no spark.

Thanks in advance - you guys know a lot more than I do about these bikes!

PS - I anyone wants the original Adobe Illustrator file (.ai) to work out your own diagram, I'm happy to share it.

 

[rbirkey]

So, I may have found a significant issue that would make a big difference. The yellow wire out of the Safety Relay was cut. According to the OEM wiring diagram, it connects to a 4th yellow lead out of the OEM stator/generator. But, there is no 4th yellow wire out of the XS Charge stator. So, where does that yellow wire out of the Safety Relay go in this case?

 

[Its been a long time]

Without the yellow wire from the alternator, the safety relay doesn't do anything. The yellow wire goes into the relay, not out of it.

 

[650Skull]

Thanks for the help. I've decided to document the current wiring on the 1977 Yamaha XS650, in hopes that it may help us all understand what I am dealing with and to find the cause of no spark. Remember that it experienced a direct short from the positive battery cable to the frame. I suspect that this may have fried one or more components... trying to verify this so I can order and replace whatever is needed.

This is my first attempt at the diagram. It's based on the one by jayel, but I traced over it in Adobe Illustrator, made modifications, and exported it as a PDF. It may yet need more corrections.

Notes:

• The "Pilot Box" is already gone and replaced with 2 gauges from MikesXS (speedo and tach).
• The "Light Checker" is gone
• The "Reserve Light Check" is gone
• The "Turn Signal Cancel" is gone
• Points and Condenser are gone

I have a few more questions

• I cannot find the "Diode" - it may already be gone. Is that okay?
• I can't find a "Brake Lining Sensor"- OK?
• Is it okay if I remove all the old wires and connectors in the harness of the items I am not using? To simplify.
• How would I bypass the MikesXS X-Charge unit (Electronic Advance) to test if the stator is ok? I still get no spark.

Thanks in advance - you guys know a lot more than I do about these bikes!

PS - I anyone wants the original Adobe Illustrator file (.ai) to work out your own diagram, I'm happy to share it.

Nice Diagram

PMA shouldn't b using the factory Seperate Regulator and rectifier as drawn.

https://www.xs650.com/threads/boyer-and-pamco-ignition.46859/

 

[rbirkey]

Thanks for the responses. They made me realize the wiring diagram was not accurate regarding the MikesSX X-Charge system that is on the bike. The bike does have the full Mikes X-Charge system on it, including the regulator, and it has been working since 2019. I believe that I followed the diagram when I installed it. I have also removed the items that are either already removed or that I plan to remove.

I do not know where the yellow wire from the Safety Relay goes. Do I even need the Safety Relay?
I do not know what to do with the Turn Cancel Unit wires (Yl/Rd and YL/GRN)... the Flasher appears to have been wired through it.

 

[650Skull]

As mentioned in an earlier post the Y goes to the safety relay from the factory Alternator. That is your starter overrun cut off when the engine starts.
That wire becomes redundant because a PMA doesn't have the yellow wire.

Your safety relay also triggers the white dash light in the tower if the filament blows. Bypassing the RSU still allows the safety relay to work in the event of headlight failure.

Only need it if you like to have a headlight on in the daytime for safety reasons and like the idea your warned if the bulb blows.

Disconnecting the flasher return unit leaving the wires in the loom doesn't matter. No bypass needed.

 

[rbirkey]

Okay, so since I do not have the factory stator, the extra yellow wire goes nowhere. Explains why it was cut off. I don't remember doing that, but I must have because the bike was running fine.

I do not have the OEM center "Pilot Box" on this bike either... just running 2 gauges from MikesXS, so I guess I do not need any of those wires. I'm stripping extra wires out of the harness to simplify things.

So, I'm back to the mystery of why I have no spark. At least now I know it isn't because of the yellow wire.

Thanks for your help.

 

[rbirkey]

Today, I discovered that the three yellow wires from the stator to the Regulater/Rectifier (under the black wire sheath) were frayed and possibly arcing, potentially causing the failure. There is a melted section of the three-prong plug, and the wire coarting under the black plastic sheathing was a bit stuck together.

I am guessing that when the positive battery cable broke and arced against the frame, this section got fried.

I have ordered a replacement Regulater/Rectifier from MikesXS and will see if that fixes the no spark situation.

 

[rbirkey]

I've replaced the former Regugulator/Rectifier with a new one from MiesXS. Still no spark. I saw that Rick's Motorsport Electrics sells a Regulator for Lithium batteries - https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/Universal-Rectifier-Regulator-Lithium-Compatible-14_504

Now I wonder if this has been part of the problem, since we replaced the battery on this bike with a lithium one.

I've tested the stator and find consistent continuity with all three wires, and no short to ground. So, I think the stator is fine.

I may need to replace the ignition module itself next.