Mikey's XS 81 Special II

[MikeyDeepXS]

This tool is great for removing the float bowls while the carbs are still on the bike. It’s a 1/4” hex drive ratchet that came with some patio furniture that I helped my dad assemble. I stuck in an impact drive phillips tip and it’s tits!

 

[MikeyDeepXS]

Spraying some carb and choke up into the seat hoping to clean away debris that wasn’t there

 

[MikeyDeepXS]

Flooding like a MF

 

[MikeyDeepXS]

Whack whack on a the bowl while filled with gas and screws loose seemed to be the solution

 

[MikeyDeepXS]

Finger testing the needle

 

[MikeyDeepXS]

Installing the bowl screws

 

[DogBunny]

View attachment 374621
Whack whack on a the bowl while filled with gas and screws loose seemed to be the solution

Maybe you already figured this out, but whacking fixing massive flooding usually means that the float needle was cocked in its seat. I'd give the needle and seat a really good inspection, could be all kinds of things causing this. Or just replace with new genuine Mikuni float valves (not aftermarket).

 

[MikeyDeepXS]

I was under the impression that the needle moved very freely when I removed the bowl and pressed the float with my finger.
Idk maybe it jammed 4 times in a row and released to move freely every time I took the bowl off and then immediately jammed thereafter.


I’m hearing a echo effect though now from the forum veterans

I guess I’ll start a go fund me page: Help Mikey to one day afford genuine Mikuni parts.

 

[grouchie77]

I guess I’ll start a go fund me page: Help Mikey to one day afford genuine Mikuni parts.

This will be all in good fun, but every time I hear someone starts a "money-grab" GoFundMe or Kickstarter, this is all I can think of:

 

[MikeyDeepXS]

This will be all in good fun, but every time I hear someone starts a "money-grab" GoFundMe or Kickstarter, this is all I can think of:
View attachment 374625

You know I just don’t like to work… except when it’s on my carburetors, and I get to do a lot of work on them because I can’t afford genuine mikuni parts

 

[MikeyDeepXS]

Seriously though…. I had this thought….

What if the problem isnt my needles or seats, but is caused by the floats themselves.

I did notice a slight indentation on the tang….

I’m thinking, well maybe if my cheap needle is getting jammed in the seat at an awkward angle, could it be the spring loaded tip getting caught on this indent and jacking it at an angle?

Btw these are genuine mikuni floats, as far as I know, they were the ones that came with the bike when I purchased it.

 

[grouchie77]

I have brass floats in my '77....

IF it were me, I'd test to see if your floats actually float. Hold them underwater in a cup or jar or bowl or saucepan or bathroom sink or whateverthefuck, and give them a gentle squeeze to see if air bubbles come out. I generally like to troubleshoot and be sure a part is bad before I go throwing money at a new part.

It's a cheap free test to see if your float has a leak.

 

[MikeyDeepXS]

I have brass floats in my '77....

IF it were me, I'd test to see if your floats actually float. Hold them underwater in a cup or jar or bowl or saucepan or bathroom sink or whateverthefuck, and give them a gentle squeeze to see if air bubbles come out. I generally like to troubleshoot and be sure a part is bad before I go throwing money at a new part.

It's a cheap free test to see if your float has a leak.

I didn’t squeeze them, but I did shake them listening for any liquid inside and tested them for boyancy. Inspections very closely for cracks or holes in the plastic, everything looks good to me and floats fine.

I’m just considering if @dogbunny’s assertion that the needle is jamming is correct(which seems plausible) yet the needle moves freely when I press the float with my finger, and seems to have good floating characteristics, then maybe this small observed depression on the tang might just be where the spring loaded pin is sticking, causing the bottom of the needle to be pressed sideways and jamming it with just enough extra friction in the bore of the seat to not close fully.


Idk, just a theory.


And maybe genuine mikuni needles and seats would fix it too, but I’m still not convinced that I know that for certain.

It’d be nice to be able to eliminate that as a possibility, but its kinda an expensive gamble for me at the moment

 

[650Skull]

As you don't know if the floats have been changed prier to buying the bike, a possible situation could b the float pin. After market floats somtimes don't have the float part, that wraps around the pin, tight enough. This causes the float to jam or twist on the pin

A possability

 

[MikeyDeepXS]

I wish I could put a little glass window on the side of the float bowl and see what’s happening inside of there when it has issues…

Hmmm I wonder if I could do that with a little glass disc and some tank weld epoxy

 

[MikeyDeepXS]

If I continue having issues I’m going to try this next:

 

[gggGary]

off idle flat spot, stock carbs, exhaust
https://www.xs650.com/threads/1980-xs-650-warm-up-ignition-problem.69716/post-909713
1) 3mm washer per needle

 

[Wingedwheel]

Have you checked both sides of the floats? If there is a small twist of any kind it can cause a leak.

 

[MikeyDeepXS]

off idle flat spot, stock carbs, exhaust
https://www.xs650.com/threads/1980-xs-650-warm-up-ignition-problem.69716/post-909713
1) 3mm washer per needle

Ahh, so that’s how I can adjust the non adjustable needle! I’ll give that a go soon and report back

Thanks gggGary for the tip!

 

[gggGary]

They can get bent towards or away from each other.
Are you using the foam float height spec?

Use this setting.
The adjustment tangs should NOT be far from the flat surface at the hinge, no big bends.

NOT the brass float setting

It's nagging at me that twomanyXS1Bs found foam floats with the wrong spec. (it's a common problem with brass floats)