boxbodybangin
XS650 Enthusiast
any ideas where to start? i have no idea about electrics.
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MIKUNI VM34 HELP!!!!!!!
- Thread starter boxbodybangin
- Start date
Scroll down to post #7.
Look under electrical.
Read Continuity testing.link
Also read the others about the importance of earth/ grounds and xsleo's tutorial on how the electrical system works
https://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650...-other-information-including-xs750-850.30569/
Look under electrical.
Read Continuity testing.link
Also read the others about the importance of earth/ grounds and xsleo's tutorial on how the electrical system works
https://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650...-other-information-including-xs750-850.30569/
boxbodybangin
XS650 Enthusiast
Will do! In your experience/opinion, do my “symptoms” sound like an electrical problem to you? I replaced the main fuse and the lights work fine and i can get the bike running as long as the throttle is at least 1/8th of the way open.
Are those the stock boots? What's the condition of the gaskets? Did you try squirting a bit of water to check for vacuum leaks?
I only say this because I had BS38s with velocity stacks and the stock rubber boots too. I eventually made my own adapters based on the TC Bros models and got appropriate rubber sleeves and made new gaskets and my idling issues went away.
I only say this because I had BS38s with velocity stacks and the stock rubber boots too. I eventually made my own adapters based on the TC Bros models and got appropriate rubber sleeves and made new gaskets and my idling issues went away.
boxbodybangin
XS650 Enthusiast
stock boots but i got the TC bros manifolds coming in early next week. as far as the gaskets do you mean the float bowl gaskets? Just replaced them. they’re brand new.
No the gasket between the rubber boot and the cylinder head. Prone to tearing in my experience.
boxbodybangin
XS650 Enthusiast
jesus christ i didn’t even know there is a gasket there LOL. As you can tell im an absolute novice. Where can I find replacement gaskets? Any links would be greatly appreciated! I’ll have to check when i’m home to see the condition of the current gasket
If there is no gasket there then that's one of the problems.
Again, do the squirt bottle test.
I usually just make my own gaskets using a roll of gasket paper from my local auto store.
Again, do the squirt bottle test.
I usually just make my own gaskets using a roll of gasket paper from my local auto store.
Also I'm looking at the TC Bros intake billet pieces, I don't see that it comes with fresh gaskets.
boxbodybangin
XS650 Enthusiast
that’s not a problem. i also have a roll of some thick felt gasket. I’ll just cut my own. Honestly even without doing a spray test yet, i can almost assure that either the boot or the gasket is worn. Whether that’s causing my issue or not, doesn’t hurt to do some preventative maintenance.
https://www.dimecitycycles.com/yamaha-xs650-gasket-carb-holder-pk-2-oem-256-13556-01.html
These should fit your application. Regardless of what carb setup you're running, the aluminium pad on the cylinder head is the same as any other cylinder head pad any other guy has in his bike.
These should fit your application. Regardless of what carb setup you're running, the aluminium pad on the cylinder head is the same as any other cylinder head pad any other guy has in his bike.
Yeah my stock boots went to shit eventually so that's when I just machined my own.
Never discount any thing that might cause the problem. A simple test could eliminate it.
To my post. You have blown a fuse. That is electrical. Could b caused by a number of things. To quote, or paraphrase an ex Guru, (RIP Griz), Carb problem symptoms are more often electrical.
I did notice the pamco plate is at the end of the adjustment. That won't cause a blowen fuse but could add to a timing problem if the can chain has stretched to much.
Continuity testing the loom will eliminate a broken or shorting wire.
Read the link on grounds/earth, just as important.
To my post. You have blown a fuse. That is electrical. Could b caused by a number of things. To quote, or paraphrase an ex Guru, (RIP Griz), Carb problem symptoms are more often electrical.
I did notice the pamco plate is at the end of the adjustment. That won't cause a blowen fuse but could add to a timing problem if the can chain has stretched to much.
Continuity testing the loom will eliminate a broken or shorting wire.
Read the link on grounds/earth, just as important.
boxbodybangin
XS650 Enthusiast
Thank you! I’ll continue on with my reading and recruit the help of some friends who are much more electrically inclined than myself haha. I’m sure you’ve heard this plenty, but I think the entire community owes you a significant of appreciation for how informative your guides are. You are indeed a guru. I’ll keep you updated on my findings.
blown FUSE is NOT a carb or leaking boot dudes
boxbodybangin
XS650 Enthusiast
I don’t think anybody was saying that it was. Of course, nobody can accurately diagnose over the internet, however he was just providing a suggestion that could possibly provide issues ASIDE from the charging system. I was just saying I’d look into the boots/gaskets just as preventative maintenance since i’m already replacing them anyways.blown FUSE is NOT a carb or leaking boot dudes
I am full of suggestions.
You and I would not be happy with them, with your written symptoms and results.
Multiple suggestions are for leaking manifolds, not a blown fuse caused by electrical overloads.
Lose power to the iggy system and any amount of tuning on the carbs will not fix it.
You and I would not be happy with them, with your written symptoms and results.
Multiple suggestions are for leaking manifolds, not a blown fuse caused by electrical overloads.
Lose power to the iggy system and any amount of tuning on the carbs will not fix it.
boxbodybangin
XS650 Enthusiast
Well that is precisely why I am asking for help. I WANT to hear all your suggestions/diagnoses. I would be more than happy to hear it all so that I can test/rule out every possible issue.
EVERYTHING needs to be in good working order for any engine to run well, or at all....
First you need to find and fix whatever caused a 20A fuse to blow.
Then ensure cam timing, valve clearances and compression is according to spec.
Then check static/ idle ignition timing is correct. IF you have reliable timing marks that is......
(personally, I would verify TDC and ignition timing marks, using a degree wheel and a piston stop. Who knows what happened when that PMA was manufactured and installed.....)
When all this is good, start the engine, and verify ignition timing and advance when running.
Then you can start messing with carb jetting and potential vacuum leaks.
How-to and other info on how the above is done is found pretty much everywhere online, on this forum, on YouTube, shop manuals, books, etc. Search and you will find. Then study this info until you understand it.
I agree camchain, then tappets then timing, in that order, would not go amiss as I pointed out the pamco looks to b at t the edge of the timing range.
A blowen fuse is electrical.
You mention points earlier. Did you change to the pamco or was it installed when you got it.
A blowen fuse is electrical.
You mention points earlier. Did you change to the pamco or was it installed when you got it.
