Miss November XS2 tribute

I believe JB Weld will work fine as an insulator / potting material in a 12V system.

The only thing I can think of that you might watch out for is ganging one 6-way block serviced by a single ground wire...ensure that you don't have too many of the circuits you are grounding engaged at one time such that you overload the single ground wire. Or make your single wire that services the connector a slightly larger GA to compensate.

IIRC, on the stock harness, the maximum ground wire grouping was 3 conductors.
 
And here is the blobtastic result of yesterday's messing about.


PICT1589.JPGPICT1588.JPG


One wire in, a length of uninsulated copper* daisy-chained into the connector block, then sealed up with JB Weld. Other products for making a mess are available.

I'll tidy up the blob with a craft knife, take some of the stringy bits away. But the multimeter set to Ohms shows continuity between the red wire #1 input and each of the six outputs. Which will go to Kill switch, lights, horn, turn signals, brake lights and regulator. The blue wire is not used.

But I can't help feeling I'm making heavy weather of this. Surely there must be sommat on the market for this?

* Tracer wire, insulation stripped, the fine strands twisted, folded, female connectors crimped on at intervals of maybe 1", fitted to the plastic block
 
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OK, looking for ideas. I bin using mini-connectors to tidy the wiring - hoping to end up with a lot less of a rats' nest in the headlamp shell.

One technique I've used on the Bullet 500 is to make one-to-multi using spliced wires and daisy-chaining along a mini-connector, like this:

View attachment 362842

The female half of this 6-way connector block has one input A and when A is live, so will be outputs A-F. It works but awkward, clunky. fiddly, and the female connectors struggle to accept two wires twisted together.

So today's experiment has been to take a length of tracer wire, strip the insulation, fold and twist, crimp on a connector, fold and twist, 'nother connector. Obvious downside is - I just stripped the insulation, so that's not going to be great inside the headlamp shell. But my solution to that has been to encase the bare copper wires in JB Weld. Drying in the garage overnight.

However, I call on the collective wisdom of you lot. This is something that must have been done many times? Has any of you found a way to make multiple connections with mini-connectors? Perhaps there's a product on the market?

I'll see how today's effort is doing tomorrow.
I used WAGO 221 connectors for convenience.
Look here: https://www.wago.com/gb/electrical-...r-installation-terminal-blocks-and-connectors
 
"Blobtastic" ha! Will surely work!

One way I have confined JB Weld in the past is to use tape to create a mould of sorts i.e. run ~25 mm wide tape around the sides of the connector with the edges extending up above the back of the connector block creating a kind of well or swimming pool which would allow you to "pour" (ha ha) the JBW in. The tape then forms nice edges conforming to the connector shape, and in my experience, the JBW self levels the "top" no problem.

Would be great if there was a factory solution for ganging connections on mini-type connectors, and maybe there is, I just don't know of any. I even scanned Molex and didn't see anything.

But I think you'll have a nicely functioning result regardless of final cosmetics!
 
Tried to explain what I did but pictures probably better. First, short length of wire, remove insulation, add connector. Then fold and add another, fold again, another, and finally attach to the longer blue wire, which will be fed from the Lights On/Off switch.


PICT1590.JPGPICT1591.JPGPICT1592.JPG
PICT1593.JPG


Next step is mix JB Weld and blobbify or blobbicate, not sure of the verb, to seal the copper strands.

The male half of this block will feed the rear light, tacho light, speedo light and dip switch. One goes to four.
 
Tried to explain what I did but pictures probably better. First, short length of wire, remove insulation, add connector. Then fold and add another, fold again, another, and finally attach to the longer blue wire, which will be fed from the Lights On/Off switch.


View attachment 362898View attachment 362895View attachment 362896
View attachment 362897


Next step is mix JB Weld and blobbify or blobbicate, not sure of the verb, to seal the copper strands.

The male half of this block will feed the rear light, tacho light, speedo light and dip switch. One goes to four.

Well done.

Mike's sell these multi bullet connecters with plastic sheaths, Same difference.
Would a local (UK), supplier have them?
IMG_20251217_070939.jpg
 
Well done.

Mike's sell these multi bullet connecters with plastic sheaths, Same difference.
Would a local (UK), supplier have them?
View attachment 362903
Yup, available from Vehicle Wiring Products who sell 3.9mm Japanese style bullets and I have used them on my TR6, Miss November and other bikes. I have single, double and those multi-way connectors.

But I'm moving to the 2.8mm multi-connectors, with the neat little plastic connector blocks, in the hope of achieving more neatness and less space. Buy them from the same place.


miniconn.jpg
 
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