Musings on Boyer Bransden electronic ignition kit.

3 compression - ?

Meantime while I wait for the compression tester to arrive
My general rule of thumb (literally):
If it'll blow your thumb off the plug hole while kicking it over, it's good enough to run.
 
You guys keep beating on the threaded rod. Guess what? It does it's job. All it does is hold the rotor in place, it's not driving a gear or anything with a lot of resistance. Is it the best design maybe not but it works. The stator plate just be careful installing it. I have had to file the edges a little so it could seat better.
I've installed 5 Boyers of them over the last 5 years have not had a problem with any of them. None have had the timing move at all. No stator plate or coil problems.
A lot of times that paint dot you use to static set the timing is not in the exact right place. Usually retarded some. You may find when you check it with a timing light that it is off.
Something I do if I have to remove the stator for any reason after I have the final set on the timing is put the engine at TDC and put a mark on the rotor and a corresponding mark on the cam housing. Then when I put it back together I know where to put it.
 
You guys keep beating on the threaded rod. Guess what? It does it's job. All it does is hold the rotor in place, it's not driving a gear or anything with a lot of resistance. Is it the best design maybe not but it works. The stator plate just be careful installing it. I have had to file the edges a little so it could seat better.
I've installed 5 Boyers of them over the last 5 years have not had a problem with any of them. None have had the timing move at all. No stator plate or coil problems.
A lot of times that paint dot you use to static set the timing is not in the exact right place. Usually retarded some. You may find when you check it with a timing light that it is off.
Something I do if I have to remove the stator for any reason after I have the final set on the timing is put the engine at TDC and put a mark on the rotor and a corresponding mark on the cam housing. Then when I put it back together I know where to put it.
Thanks, there's many people out there who agree with you. The BB system is working just fine as far as I can tell. Big fat sparks :)

Could a couple of really simple changes make an OK ignition kit into a really great one? Without a doubt.

What you get for the money though, it's a decent deal.
 
Have you confirmed there is a half moon key in the rotor keyway?
blow your thumb off the plug hole while kicking it over
1722369915442.png

Demonstrating doing the easy...
 
Have you confirmed there is a half moon key in the rotor keyway?

View attachment 331925
Demonstrating doing the easy...
Great question. Indirectly I have yes. The valve timing and ignition timing marks are both correct. I appreciate your interest. One day I'll sort this bike out one way or another. Nobody said it was going to be easy ;)
 
Have you confirmed there is a half moon key in the rotor keyway?

View attachment 331925
Demonstrating doing the easy...
My 70yr old legs can still do it... even with an effed up aftermarket knee.
Maybe them gangly legs of your get in the way? :poke:
 
Not read through ..but I remember flipping the wires from the trigger
Getting no start ..
Easy to check and test

View attachment 331929
I seem to remember that too. I think the issue was the unit retarding when it should advance. Flipping the wires from the trigger plate would fix that.
 
what was the end result on this one, looking to purchase the BB unit, so reading this thread with great interest :)
 
what was the end result on this one, looking to purchase the BB unit, so reading this thread with great interest :)
Big fat sparks :)

A bit fiddly to set up the static timing and the trigger assembly could be more robust. I like the PVL ignition coil provided in the kit, made in Germany and doesn't get much better. But for the money, it's a good deal. I would buy one again if I had to.
 
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