-Xs79-

[LanzSilva]

Hey Lanz---I'm interested in knowing what the PMA mounting plate is that you are using....

tim

I have used the right cover of a scooter. I had to shape it to fit.

 

[timbeck]

I'm impressed that you figured that out.....

tim

 

[LanzSilva]

Good news.
I have received some spare parts, I immediately got to work with the chain.
I had to separate both chains and they don't know how nervous I was, but I did it without damaging anything.
I feel great when things go according to plan.
Now I wait for my gasket kit to assemble
He had postponed the change for two reasons:
1. I wanted to make it work for a while before changing some parts again (excitement from my first rebuild I guess)
2. Lack of budget XD

As you can see, my old chain was very stretched, how lucky I don't ride many km on it, just a few short rides.

 

[LanzSilva]

What do you think? Is riveting enough?

 

[Jim]

It's hard to say from the pics. If you have any doubt, peen the edges over on two sides like the solid links.

Es difícil decirlo a partir de las fotos. Si tiene alguna duda, pele los bordes en dos lados como los enlaces sólidos.

 

[Jan_P]

I believe it is OK the riveting but what looks strange is that it appears be of a different material with another color
Perhaps touch it wth a file to test that it is hard as it should be Or contact the seller of the link ask about it

 

[grizld1]

Yes, Jan, the ends of the master link pins are softer material than other pins. If you want to know why that's necessary, try putting a dent in one of the other pins with a riveting tool or center punch. There's no side load on the master link, and I've never seen or heard of anyone's cam chain riveting job failing. That leads me to conclude that the pins just need to be spread enough to retain the plate.

 

[Jan_P]

Yes, Jan, the ends of the master link pins are softer material than other pins. If you want to know why that's necessary, try putting a dent in one of the other pins with a riveting tool or center punch. There's no side load on the master link, and I've never seen or heard of anyone's cam chain riveting job failing. That leads me to conclude that the pins just need to be spread enough to retain the plate.

Yes Sir I know that the rivets needs to be soft Been working with sheet metal riveting
And yes there should not be much side loads .
But There are a lot of chains and qualities out there.
Usually the steel and heat treatment gives that darker blue finish as the rest of the chain has
Allen bolts of higher strength grades
Rotor Puller.
So the brighter surface of the link side sends signals that it can be softer .. Not positive that it is so nor that it matters
I have seen 3 - 4 cam chains and all of then had a link in Blueish Color If I remember correct.
I believe I would have reacted if different
I have had a drive chain break and it did it on the link. But it was not a rivet link.


Yambits UK

This cam chain rivet link is manufactered by D.I.D. in Japan. D.I.D. is the worlds largest motorcycle chain maker. Why risk your engine with a make you have never heard of! Use what was fitted in the Factory. Suits D.I.D. cam chains fitted to:

XS650 1975-1981

XS Shop Kiel

 

[grizld1]

What can I tell you? DID and Tsubaki cam chain master link ends are both that color (something of which you'd be aware if you had done even one installation of same). I don't know of any Brand X substandard cam chains or cam chain components offered for the XS650, either early or late. BTW my personal preference is for Tsubaki cam chains because the pins are slightly more robust.

 

[Rasputin]

I have seen these before and Bought some parts I have stashed
I have seen cross lists about which parts fits
Does anyone out there perhaps ( former ) brit bike owner know how the regulating is done on PMA systems
Or better still already know which regulator works
I remember a Zener diode under the lamp with cooling fins.
I assume we are talking a shunt regulator ( I believe it is called ) that cooks off excess charging to heat somewhere
But I have not done the read up
I believe this is of interest .. since a setup can be made happen for low cost with some cheap salvage parts .
Which is good in an evaluation period as the Gonzo ignition. Getting some miles on a bike before decisions is made
and a knowledge base is also good for the ones having these systems from Other vendors

Here exists replacements for the stock rectifier and regulator But this would be of use I believe

Not that it will be any less expensive than other systems, or any more reliable, here is what’s on my Commando that has a 3phase Lucas alternator. The three diodes, with the blue dots are in parallel with the rectifier. Unlike single phase systems on my other bikes the diodes are situated on the AC side before the rectifier.
when running, the diode pack gets warm and as you say bleeds off excess current as heat.
I know solid state PMA reg/rec are available and would assume work in a similar manner.

 

[Jan_P]

So if I get this right
There is no regulator installed ,,which can be an advantage for a low budget rider
Rectifier diodes can be found on Car rectifiers at low cost.
Please give more info
Is the alternator 3 phases forked so one part goes to the rectifier bridge
and another to this we se in the picture.
Commandos can have Battery or no Battery is this a no battery setup ?
Any adjustments Possible ? ?? Resistor in the pictured diode Branch ?
Without a regulator a PMA will deliver more at higher rev that the regulator cooks off
Perhaps matching the diodes here with the bridge takes care of the over voltage.

Nice installation .setting the standard

 

[GLJ]

Those 3 diodes are most likely Zener diodes. Not to be found in automotive alternators.

 

[Jan_P]

Those 3 diodes are most likely Zener diodes. Not to be found in automotive alternators.

Makes sense and giving the regulating function.
Wonder if they are expensive.

 

[Team Junk]

Just use a gy6 regulator to match the stator.

 

[Jan_P]

Just use a gy6 regulator to match the stator.

Thank you Sir
Is there a separate Regulator for different stators?
I have one stator for a Kawasaki if i recall right but if i try to buy the regulator from Kawasaki the price is up
If this gy6 is a road tested Multipurpose working regulator it appears to be a Non Expensive Solution
And perhaps something for the tech section.
A quick googling gave that Zenerdiodes are expensive

 

[Team Junk]

Shunt regulator, rectifier

 

[Team Junk]

 

[Team Junk]

 

[Rasputin]

Those 3 diodes are most likely Zener diodes. Not to be found in automotive alternators.

Thats is what I was thinking. I have seen diode packs similar to these inside car alternators. But car alternators are not permanent magnets, and as such have a regulator.

 

[Rasputin]

So if I get this right
There is no regulator installed ,,which can be an advantage for a low budget rider
Rectifier diodes can be found on Car rectifiers at low cost.
Please give more info
Is the alternator 3 phases forked so one part goes to the rectifier bridge
and another to this we se in the picture.
Commandos can have Battery or no Battery is this a no battery setup ?
Any adjustments Possible ? ?? Resistor in the pictured diode Branch ?
Without a regulator a PMA will deliver more at higher rev that the regulator cooks off
Perhaps matching the diodes here with the bridge takes care of the over voltage.

Nice installation .setting the standard

A primitive form of voltage control. Doesn’t and can’t control output from a PMA, but gets rid of the excess a bit like running with the lights on.
My Commando was positive earth but I changed it back to Neg earth, purely for ease of function.
Originally it would have had a 2MC capacitor to enable a run without battery function.