where did you plug it in?I've refurbished all the switches on my 650 and got the voltage drop across them way down from where it was. But there's still crusty 48 year old bullet connectors and wiring. The ignition system on these bikes wasn't wonderful back in the 1970's. So to get it as good as it can be, I installed the ignition relay when I fitted the Boyer Bransden kit. Big fat sparks now
Where did you plug it in? after the safety switch, or did you by pass the safety switch?I've refurbished all the switches on my 650 and got the voltage drop across them way down from where it was. But there's still crusty 48 year old bullet connectors and wiring. The ignition system on these bikes wasn't wonderful back in the 1970's. So to get it as good as it can be, I installed the ignition relay when I fitted the Boyer Bransden kit. Big fat sparks now
The relay? I used the red/white switched live from the kill switch to retain factory functionality of the ignition system. Everything works exactly as it would without the relay and if you didn't know it was there you wouldn't know there was a modification to the ignition system. So, the red/white switches the relay. I took a connection (in red wire to keep factory wiring colours) via a 10 amp fuse from the +ve terminal of the starter relay to the switched contacts of the relay. From the relay to the BB system and ignition coil in brown wire as per factory wiring system. So the entire ignition system is new and gets best possible spark at the plugs.
Boyer Bransden ignition system.
ok I got yah.
Does the relay switch off once the bike is running?
No. The relay opens if you either turn off the kill switch or turn off the ignition switch. The relay is closed to send power to the ignition coil and the BB igniter box. Everything works just like a standard bike. Advantage is simply getting battery voltage (as near as possible) on to the ignition system and achieving maximum possible spark at the plugs.
Yes, I understand what the relay is for when one is starting the bike, one has a nice fat 12volt on the coils to overcome the inadequacies of the safety switch dropping the voltage, but when the engine is running, one has 14volt on the coils because of the alternator is running. the voltage regulator is there to protect the battery. So If the relay is driven from the safety switch voltage - 11.5volt is controlling the relay of 12volt on the coils - ok when starting the engine but once running there is 14volt on the relay control, when there should only be about 1 volt. i think a ballast (is that the correct word?)resistor should be in series to drop voltage to maybe 1volt. The relay will have the spec. A low voltage used to control a higher voltage.
The coil is connected to the battery +ve terminal via the relay (and a 10 amp fuse). The kill switch just switches the relay. It's no different to how a standard bike works.Yes, I understand what the relay is for when one is starting the bike, one has a nice fat 12volt on the coils to overcome the inadequacies of the safety switch dropping the voltage, but when the engine is running, one has 14volt on the coils because of the alternator is running. the voltage regulator is there to protect the battery. So If the relay is driven from the safety switch voltage - 11.5volt is controlling the relay of 12volt on the coils - ok when starting the engine but once running there is 14volt on the relay control, when there should only be about 1 volt. i think a ballast (is that the correct word?) should be in series to drop voltage to maybe 1volt. The relay will have the spec. A low voltage used to control a higher voltage.
