my HughsHandBuilt hydrolic clutch install

I had a bit of a problem today and wanted to honor Hugh's request to post what we wrote about here (it's email so most recent is at the top... Start at the bottom):


No sweat man, now if you will just post the same in your threads on XS650.com, others might find the information useful as well. *Can't have enough good tech out there :) *

Hugh

On Mon, May 7, 2012 at 11:14 PM, Steven P. Seres, MD <stevens@cascademed.com> wrote:
I was farting around with it and somehow made the cable come off the worm. *So, using the new t-handled allen wrenches I got for my birthday, I popped the cover back off this evening. *I noticed there was a little wiggle to the worm *gear itself and was able to tighten the two phillips screws holding it to the cover a little. *I then loosened the lock nut and adjuster screw, pulled the arm of the actuator down as far as it would go, and put the cover back on. *Then had it working perfectly in 2 more small adjustments. *I remembered to fully tighten the lock nut that time.

Sorry to be a basket case, but boy I appreciate your willingness to listen.

SPS
________________________________________
From: Hugh Owings [hughshandbuilt@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2012 6:32 PM
To: Steven P. Seres, MD
Subject: Re: ack!

Steven,

Back off of the adjuster ever so slightly on the side cover, and that should decrease slippage at High RPM. *If not, add a heavier return spring to the actuator inside the cover. *Occasionally, people have a sticky worm gear and it does not like to return. *heavier internal clutch springs will also alleviate that issue

Hugh

On Mon, May 7, 2012 at 4:38 PM, Steven P. Seres, MD <stevens@cascademed.com<mailto:stevens@cascademed.com>> wrote:
Ok, so I went out and adjusted the screw out all the way, then started in with it until I got the bike to be able to idle in a gear with the clutch pulled in. *However, now I’m slipping at high rpms and acceleration.

This was what happened before when I’d squeezed the clutch lever prior to reinstalling the left side cover.

That being said, if the lock nut was loose, and the screw was able to back out and I was driving around, is it possible that the hydrolic cable somehow creeped up again and needs to be pushed down (eg, take off the cover and push down on it myself) to get this back in adjustment?

Thanks!

SPS
 
So yeah, make sure the OEM worm gear is clean, well lubed, AND tightened up to the side cases - that'll help a bit :)

Glad we got it figured out
 
So, I took the day off for my birthday and am trolling the forum and sipping coffee... Certainly the lifestyle to which I could become accustomed. A question:

I disconnected the clutch safety and followed it into the headlight as directed when I put on the new clutch cable. Not being the most experienced rider, I do stall sometimes and find it really frazzling to remember to get it into neutral before starting it up again. So... What would be the harm of hot wiring the safety so that the starter would just go no matter what gear I'm in? I get that it means e starter would go no matter what's going on, but if it means I can restart more on the fly, wouldn't that be ok?
 
So, hopefully it's not wrong to mod a mod, but I wanted a different lever. This is a stock clutch lever with a small bolt to trigger the plunger on the hydraulic clutch which I think can be trimmed a bit. i also have to figure out how to make the lever spring back. Any ideas?

full

full
 
Just one. I know I'm anal but it's been buggin' me. It's spelled hydraulic. We now return you yo your regular programming.:D
 
So...........have you had a chance to ride it yet? Any feedback on it's performance? I've got mine but I haven't installed it yet.
 
I am riding, and I'm a happy camper, minus still trying to figure out what I can do with the lever. I also had to get a new mirrow clamp but it looks nice now all buttoned back together. Probably about 30-40% easier clutching action now.
 
No I didn't drill that one, it was a stock photo off teh int3erw3bs. I think the stock Yamaha brake lever has a spring like that so you might take your front brake lever off and see exactly how it's done. FWIW, all the dirt bikes I had with front disc brakes had lever return springs like that.
 
I am riding, and I'm a happy camper, minus still trying to figure out what I can do with the lever. I also had to get a new mirrow clamp but it looks nice now all buttoned back together. Probably about 30-40% easier clutching action now.

Thanks. Have you ridden it long enough to tell if it works better than stock after a long run? That is, the cable setup on mine doesn't want to disengage (read bike will creep in gear with the clutch lever pulled fully in when hot)?
 
Dave,

I have had some issues but thus far I've blamed myself, not the mod. Mostly I'm having trouble finding the sweet spot where I can idle and not creep, as well as not slip at high rpms. Mind you, the clutch was 100% prior to this mod. I did something that I think might have caused some of this, but to fix it I have take the cover off....again and I'm a little pooped with this so I've not gone back in. Basically, before i put the cover back on, I pulled the worm arm as far as it would go on the cable. When i rererere-read Hugh's directions, there was this whole part about measuring that distance to 2.5 to 3" before putting the cover on. It's only an extra inch long, but I do wonder an hope that makes it
Right.

I really am committed to getting this work correctly.
 
Ooh, an "extra inch"? Pretty sure that's excessive. Keep us posted. I've got my own demons I'm dealing with and I can understand your frustrations, but we both know there's only one person that's gonna solve them. Keep the faith brother, and keep us posted.
 
I shall! Frigging rained here in Portland so no riding and I had preschool stuff that kept me out of the garage. I'll try to fuss it tomorrow. Inch was a guess... But hey, I'm a guy...
 
The instructions say to measure but per Hugh's advice I pulled the rod as far as it would go.....works perfectly. The whole measuring thing was actually what kept mine from working properly because the actuator rod couldn't be pulled up far enough to move the wormgear.

I've had my HC for 3 weeks now and finally have it adjusted to perfection. Shifts like a speed demon with stock clutch plates, I can hardly imagine the speed with high-performance plates. Bought a slimmer left-side control and clutch squeezes are much easier. :thumbsup:
 
Don't you pull all the slack out then screw in till it matchs the measured area?
Two different parts of the equation to make it work correctly?
Haven't done this, just asking.
 
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