Need dimensions for clutch basket cush drive plate replacement nut/bolt combo

T6h6o6r

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My dumbo ass broke one of the tabs off the cast aluminum basket part of the clutch while using the wrong tools to try and remove the center nut (play stupid games win stupid prizes!)

I found one on eBay for super cheap ($12 shipped!) But- it had 2 of the cush springs busted. so, last night brought both to the shop, drilled out the rivets, and cobbled together a complete setup. And now I just need to hold it all together! I thought I'd be able to find someplace selling just the fasteners, or at least someplace telling me the right sizes I need, but alas- it's either shell out $50 for the entire rebuild kit, or nada! So, once again I'm here asking the most knowledgeable folks I know to help me out so I can get this buttoned up and put my bike back together! :bike:

I was in there changing out the clip that keeps the starter qear from slipping / free-spinning when you try to start the bike, cause mine was getting pretty damn bad (1 out of every 4 or so tries would actually stay engaged, the rest was just that "whhiizzzizizizzz" sound) so hopefully *fingers crossed* I put 'er all back together and everything is working as it should be first try and I don't have to pull it all back apart again and troubleshoot.. (Last time I did this, I had to disassemble/reassemble the whole deal like 3 times before it was finally all in the right place and functioning without any issue. I didn't have a replacement clip so I just tried to squeeze on the old clip and make it fit tighter, which ended up lasting all of 6 months or so... :banghead::cussing: Frustrating!)
 
Note that I have not done that repair. If I understand the question, here are some sources for high strength metric flat head (countersunk) fasteners. If I'm not understanding correctly, this will serve as a "bump" to get the question back to top.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/3340
91263A474 Zinc-Plated Alloy Steel Hex Drive Flat Head Screw, M8 x 1.25 mm Thread Size, 18 mm Long

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/3500
94223A102 Extreme-Strength Steel Hex Nut, Class 12, M8 x 1.25 mm Thread



https://belmetric.com/m8x1-25-coarse-allen-socket-flat-10-9-din-7991/?sku=SF8X20

https://belmetric.com/coarse-thread-din-934-hex-nut-class-10-steel/?sku=NRH8CLZ
1663292112429.png
 
Sorry I was kinda rambling off on that post, I tend to do that from time to time, moreso when I'm talking about something I'm really interested in or stoked about. Or if Im really pissed off, haha.

Anyways, yup yup JP you nailed it, the 3 sets of fasteners you've shown in that bottom photo are exactly what I am asking about! and trying to figure out the correct sizes, both length and diameter, to do their job and also to not obstruct anything during operation.

One thing to note, I appreciate the links you included, however, in all of the pictures/videos I've seen of others doing this, as well as in all of the little parts kits I've seen for sale, the bolt has always been what looks to me to be a low profile button head style bolt, not the flat kind that's meant to be countersunk.. Now, don't get me wrong, I trust your word 100%. You have been Johnny-on-the-spot with answers to so many of my questions, and always providing accurate and easy to follow information that doesn't make a person feel like a total dummy for asking. And so, if your sayin the flat head counter sink bolts are the way to go, I trust your word and that's what I'm buyin' but I just wanted to double check after seeing so many the other way and none like this before...
 
I haven't done it......so don't follow that as gospel on this critical fix. Some of the aftermarket baskets are made for the countersink. OEM basket IDK - I'd be a chicken and go with a reputable kit.

Ya need someone with experience and I ain't it here.
 
Gotcha. I really appreciate the honesty, hopefully someone else can chime in who's done it or who knows where I can find these elusive little bits of hardware! Cause man oh man I really don't wanna have to shell out another $60 just for 3 fuggin bolts and 3 little half-stack nuts...
 
Oh and I do have one more question while on the topic... Do you think if I were to TIG weld the tab that broke off the original basket that it would be fit to use? I would really only keep it as a spare to use temporarily in case of emergency until I could get a replacement part, so like a few weeks, or a month TOPS... Im pretty handy with a TIG torch on some Aluminum.. 👨🏻‍🏭 When I was doing TIG in school last year I passed the final test on that section with flying colors so I'm pretty confident it would be a structurally sound weld.

So, is that a bad idea should I just can the broken one or should I try welding it and see how it comes out?
 
The screws that come with the spring rebuild clips are button head cap screws and half nuts The ones I have used are M8 x 18. As for the length as long as they are longer than the half nut you are good.
When you have rebuilt the assembly it is critical to check the nuts and bolt dont stick up past the gear teeth. Run a steel rule across it and grind the nuts back so you have clearance. When done centre punch the threads and use Loctite when assembling or as you can, tig weld the nuts.

I also use 3 x M8 x25 cap screws and nuts to help hold the cush assembly together and some parallel pliers are really helpful.

As a final check when fitting to the motor use plastercine to check clearance behind the clutch basket and the engine case. The area to check is the case between the crank pinion and the clutch shaft, you will see when you look at the motor. I do this because the nuts make a pretty good fly cutter and will cut the clearance they need (not a good thing to discover).

As for welding the basket you could but I would not advise it for general use, but to keep as a last ditch spare as you intend yes. Keep in mind when a clutch basket lets go a lot of ally fragments get in the oil, and its very hard to get out of your motor, short of a strip down I know for having had this happen.
Edit:
Dont be tempted to use the vesconite blocks kit shown in post # 2 by jpdevol I have one in my tracker and I did not like the feel of it without the full clutch cushioning.
 
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I use them as an extra pair of hands to hold the assembly together, I found it a bit tricky to do on my own. You will work it out.
 
Oh and I do have one more question while on the topic... Do you think if I were to TIG weld the tab that broke off the original basket that it would be fit to use? I would really only keep it as a spare to use temporarily in case of emergency until I could get a replacement part, so like a few weeks, or a month TOPS... Im pretty handy with a TIG torch on some Aluminum.. 👨🏻‍🏭 When I was doing TIG in school last year I passed the final test on that section with flying colors so I'm pretty confident it would be a structurally sound weld.

So, is that a bad idea should I just can the broken one or should I try welding it and see how it comes out?
As many tabs as the basket has, I'd just cut one off opposite the broke one for balance and run it. Might want to stay off the drag strip ( ;) ), but just used as a backup for light duty it'll do just fine.
 
I think my first name should be Late as im always way way past the conversation, but anyway a year or two later the topic is still relevant. I did this Cush spring replacement Just today actually. A couple things I experienced in the process. I managed to get the clutch assembly apart without too much issue. One thing I noticed prior to dissembling was the original Cush springs were all movable, a couple slack ones. They aren’t supposed to be slack correct? I also noticed I could move the gear on the housing back and forth with ease. I ordered 2 sets of these cush springs because I read so many different posts on this and how the sets were different depending on where you purchased them, and both sets were in fact different. One set ( XS Performance) were 1mm larger in diameter. I couldn’t compare them against the old springs as they were compressed beyond usefulness. The next set were Heiden tuning, same part number, but the springs were the same diameter as the original springs and the length the same as the XS performance. I am a fan of Heiden tuning bits and pieces from personal experience but their Cush springs had the sharp edges hand filed off the ends of the springs Which made me reluctant to use them. It has madd me wonder why though as there was no explanation for it in the package. That said, the XS performance springs were super super snug inside that top plate enough to worry me a little so I am almost tempted to undo everything I’ve done thus far and start over with the Heiden version of the Cush springs. A couple more things, The hardware on the performance springs were machine pan head Alan bolts, while Heiden were more like a regular steel pan head alan bolt. The nice thing with Heiden kit was it came with three helper bolts to hold everything together as you sqeeezed all those springs in place, instruction on taking the unit apart and putting it back together, super glue, yes super glue. I paid a little less, but not much less than the Heiden springs except the shipping from overseas was up there. What do you think, should I start over or go with what I have thus far? OH and I JB epoxied my bolts and punched the ends and 20nm torque, around 15ft lbs I guess.
One question I do have, the gear on the housing now that I have all new springs in there should that gear be impossible to turn by hand Or not?
 
Squishing the hairpin bend in the vice doesn't always work, and sometimes not for long. Instead stick a 3 mm bit of stock between the hairpin bend, stick it in the vice and bend the two half round ends inward, works a lot better.
 
Yeah I can attest to that. It’s easy to over tighten it too, which is what I did to the point it wouldn’t move at all. I couldn’t quite get that sweet spot with just the right amount of resistance. I could see inserting a 3mm pin at the top loop working though. Anyway, also look at the gear that smashes into the other one on that assembly as often the teeth are chewed up along with the rubber cushion on the gear. Mine was like that so I never wasted too much time trying to file the teeth like I read some doing. I just replaced it.
 
I think my first name should be Late as im always way way past the conversation, but anyway a year or two later the topic is still relevant. I did this Cush spring replacement Just today actually. A couple things I experienced in the process. I managed to get the clutch assembly apart without too much issue. One thing I noticed prior to dissembling was the original Cush springs were all movable, a couple slack ones. They aren’t supposed to be slack correct? I also noticed I could move the gear on the housing back and forth with ease. I ordered 2 sets of these cush springs because I read so many different posts on this and how the sets were different depending on where you purchased them, and both sets were in fact different. One set ( XS Performance) were 1mm larger in diameter. I couldn’t compare them against the old springs as they were compressed beyond usefulness. The next set were Heiden tuning, same part number, but the springs were the same diameter as the original springs and the length the same as the XS performance. I am a fan of Heiden tuning bits and pieces from personal experience but their Cush springs had the sharp edges hand filed off the ends of the springs Which made me reluctant to use them. It has madd me wonder why though as there was no explanation for it in the package. That said, the XS performance springs were super super snug inside that top plate enough to worry me a little so I am almost tempted to undo everything I’ve done thus far and start over with the Heiden version of the Cush springs. A couple more things, The hardware on the performance springs were machine pan head Alan bolts, while Heiden were more like a regular steel pan head alan bolt. The nice thing with Heiden kit was it came with three helper bolts to hold everything together as you sqeeezed all those springs in place, instruction on taking the unit apart and putting it back together, super glue, yes super glue. I paid a little less, but not much less than the Heiden springs except the shipping from overseas was up there. What do you think, should I start over or go with what I have thus far? OH and I JB epoxied my bolts and punched the ends and 20nm torque, around 15ft lbs I guess.
One question I do have, the gear on the housing now that I have all new springs in there should that gear be impossible to turn by hand Or not?
Correction the bolts were actually Alan cap screws with half nuts not bolts.
 
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