Need help with a lever starter.

[BSomerfield]

I've got a 73 tx650 that I need to fix the starter on. The current problem is the lever pulls but with no resistance, as if the kill switch is in the wrong position. This was rather sudden as I had been test riding it for about 5 miles before this happened. When I got it back to the house I tried to start it again and it wouldn't do anything. I hear no noises of it trying to start, the key ignition is working fine, the battery is charged, and the spark plugs are only a week or two old.

So what I'm looking for here is some help in figuring out what this starting system is (as it's not in my manual) and if it can't be fixed, what I need to do to swap it to a push button start. I wanted to do that eventually anyway but was growing on the old retro vibe. Thanks guys, pictures below of the starting lever, the cover of what it connects to, the pully that it pulls and that it does move all the way, and a look inside at the external and internal mechanism.

 

[gggGary]

Two parts, an electric start switch at the handle bar and a compression release. The compression release doesn't matter just figure out what's wrong with the switch or other electric start components. The circuit, parts other than the switch itself are the same for all years

 

[BSomerfield]

Two parts, an electric start switch at the handle bar and a compression release. The compression release doesn't matter just figure out what's wrong with the switch or other electric start components. The circuit, parts other than the switch itself are the same for all years

So I need to take apart the handlebar and check the wiring?

 

[gggGary]

The black cap seen there covers the switch. The leads connect in the headlight bucket.

 

[BSomerfield]

So I took apart the starter and cleaned up the connection point. After that I almost got it to start a couple times but it ended up not working. I tried holding the starter open and then kick starting it and that was able to get it started. Given that information it sounds like there's a compression issue where the starter isn't able to overcome even half the pressure needed so is the starter bunk? Is it possible the issue is from the ignition coil?

 

[gggGary]

Try jumping the solenoid terminals?
check your battery to frame ground strap.
How does the starter sound? They are pretty reliable but an oil leak can mess up the inside.

 

[BSomerfield]

No oil leak that I can see, the grounding looks solid, but I did arc the battery 3 times so far. I think I need a shorter battery.

 

[gggGary]

The engine oil can leak INTO the starter through the shaft seal.
Not common but it can happen.

 

[Wingedwheel]

If it’s spinning the engine it should start. What battery are you running? The compression release was for the older OEM battery that didn’t have enough amps to spin the motor properly however modern battery’s more than make up for that. I did install a newer switch(76-77) to my ‘72 bobber and I like it.

 

[BSomerfield]

It's a ETX15L liquid battery. I probably need to update to a lithium soon since that'll be smaller and less likely to make contact on the bike.

An update though, I was able to kick start the bike while holding the start lever. The kick seemed like it was just getting the starter past some compression and then it could take over. I'm guessing this was happening because the battery was low so I'm giving it a charge right now and waiting to see if that improves things.

Oddly enough, my right point went bad again. This was a brand new one about 2 months old at this point but testing it showed an issue. I wasn't able to find any underlying cause that would make the point go bad so quickly and luckily I had another to replace it with. I'm guessing it's indicative of a lot of electrical issues and the whole thing needs a rebuild.

 

[gggGary]

have you changed condensers?

 

[BSomerfield]

have you changed condensers?

I have not, what are the condensers?

 

[Jim]

It's a ETX15L liquid battery. I probably need to update to a lithium soon since that'll be smaller and less likely to make contact on the bike.

An update though, I was able to kick start the bike while holding the start lever. The kick seemed like it was just getting the starter past some compression and then it could take over. I'm guessing this was happening because the battery was low so I'm giving it a charge right now and waiting to see if that improves things.

Oddly enough, my right point went bad again. This was a brand new one about 2 months old at this point but testing it showed an issue. I wasn't able to find any underlying cause that would make the point go bad so quickly and luckily I had another to replace it with. I'm guessing it's indicative of a lot of electrical issues and the whole thing needs a rebuild.

If it was a Made in China set, all bets are off. Never used the Chinese ones myself, but I've read nowt but bad about 'em though.

New points will come shipped with a light wiping of oil on the contacts. If you don't clean that off with solvent first, they'll burn within the first 100 miles. Back in the day, I could cover a garage wall with burnt points from customers who "did their own" and then came to me for help within 500 miles.

Lastly, do what Gary sez.... change the condensers.

 

[gggGary]

New points will come shipped with a light wiping of oil on the contacts. Don't clean that off with solvent first, they'll burn within the first 100 miles.

Color me confused?

Condensers:
Found hiding behind the left top engine mount

they act like a shock absorber for the points, reducing wear on the points and greatly improving the quality of the spark. The two cent test is to watch points in a darkened area, there should not be strong sparking just light dance of light blue now and then sparks. Condensers die of old age and are a normal wear part. Back in the day every set of auto points came with a new condenser.

 

[BSomerfield]

I'll check that out. Unfortunately the starter seems to have destroyed it's gear when starting up. I think the compression was too much and it just blew apart but I'll have to crack it open to see what happened. Right now the starter turns sometimes and then the bike runs for about 20-30 seconds at a high rpm then dies suddenly.

 

[Wingedwheel]

If the starter sounds like broken glass that’s pretty common. A new gear and HD spring will normally fix that.

 

[Jim]

...

 

[Its been a long time]

+1 on changing the condensers. Along with sets of points and batteries, in my opinion, the quality of new condensers today has never been more questionable. Certainly, none of those items are of the quality they used to be.

 

[gggGary]

Advanced timing can be really hard on starters, both electric and leg.
More likely to be the problem than too much compression.

 

[BSomerfield]

If the starter sounds like broken glass that’s pretty common. A new gear and HD spring will normally fix that.

I just bought one and the clip was too large so I had to grind it down a bit to make it fit the bike. I'm guessing I bought a part for a later xs not the 73 tx. Is there a reliable place to get the correct part? I'm headed to a junk yard this weekend to look for parts but if I can't find one there I'd like to see if there's somewhere I can order from.